Jessem doweling jig

[sebr023]

Hi all!

I’m a weekend warrior. I don’t do this professionally. I’d be happy to splurge on a nice domino, but I don’t have this kind of money now, one day!

I’m having a hard time deciding of which Jessem doweling jig to get. I don’t see much difference between them except one is stainless and the other is aluminium. The aluminium one has already the dowel size on them, aluminium one you need to change the size.

[attachimg=1]

I’m thinking of getting it for my speaker stand project.
I’m thinking of making the leg 3x6in. Using 3/4in mdf, I would laminate it to get 3in “thick” and think dowel would help somehow, for registration?! Maybe only glue would be enough? If I cut them a bit over size and then rip them to size on table saw?!

What you guys think?

[attachimg=2]

 

[Packard]

I have several doweling jigs.  Each one excels at one type of joint or another. 

The cheap (and reliable) Rockler jig is excellent for working using 3/4” thick stock, and with some thought, can be useful with other thicknesses of material.

The self-centering jig works well with other thicknesses.  (But get one that uses bushings for all the holes—it will allow you to clamp and drill 4 same sized holes per setting).  The better jigs arrive fully adjusted.  A cheaper one may require an hour or more of tedious adjustment.  I bought a Harbor Freight self-centering jig just to get the screw in bushings.  (The entire jig & bushings cost less than just buying bushings elsewhere, but the jig is junk.)

The CMT jig is as fast or faster than a Domino in many instances, but it is for sheet goods only. 

The total spent on all three is less than a Jessem jig. 

On the minus side, there are some dowel jigs that I have used once and they proved to be less versatile than they would first appear. 

Dowels will never be fully replaced by Dominoes, because at the top end of the doweling systems is full automation which is faster and uses cheaper dowels than Dominoes. 

And my long-dormant biscuit cutter is starting to see use again.  None of my biscuit joints have ever failed, they are faster and easier to use than any other system. 

By nature, I overbuild everything.  Lately, I am trying to choose a joinery method that will get the job done efficiently, and still be strong enough for the application. 

Before springing for the Jessem jig, I would get the Rockler one ($27.00 including bit), to see if you like working with dowels (you will be amazed at how, with some thought, the Rockler jig can handle 80% of the Jessem’s jobs.)

I have both the 3/8” and 1/2” versions. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Hi all!

I’m a weekend warrior. I don’t do this professionally. I’d be happy to splurge on a nice domino, but I don’t have this kind of money now, one day!

I’m having a hard time deciding of which Jessem doweling jig to get. I don’t see much difference between them except one is stainless and the other is aluminium. The aluminium one has already the dowel size on them, aluminium one you need to change the size.

[attachimg=1]

I’m thinking of getting it for my speaker stand project.
I’m thinking of making the leg 3x6in. Using 3/4in mdf, I would laminate it to get 3in “thick” and think dowel would help somehow, for registration?! Maybe only glue would be enough? If I cut them a bit over size and then rip them to size on table saw?!

What you guys think?

[attachimg=2]

"Laminating" as in solid? rather than a hollow column? I assume for the weight/stability?
If that is the case, I would start with one piece, exactly on size. Cut the other 3 pieces oversized. Glue a layer to each side, let dry, flush trim. Glue the last piece, let dry, flush trim. You have your 3" column, no fasteners to have to fill, or worry about cutting into later.

 

[sebr023]

Hi all!

I’m a weekend warrior. I don’t do this professionally. I’d be happy to splurge on a nice domino, but I don’t have this kind of money now, one day!

I’m having a hard time deciding of which Jessem doweling jig to get. I don’t see much difference between them except one is stainless and the other is aluminium. The aluminium one has already the dowel size on them, aluminium one you need to change the size.

[attachimg=1]

I’m thinking of getting it for my speaker stand project.
I’m thinking of making the leg 3x6in. Using 3/4in mdf, I would laminate it to get 3in “thick” and think dowel would help somehow, for registration?! Maybe only glue would be enough? If I cut them a bit over size and then rip them to size on table saw?!

What you guys think?

[attachimg=2]

"Laminating" as in solid? rather than a hollow column? I assume for the weight/stability?
If that is the case, I would start with one piece, exactly on size. Cut the other 3 pieces oversized. Glue a layer to each side, let dry, flush trim. Glue the last piece, let dry, flush trim. You have your 3" column, no fasteners to have to fill, or worry about cutting into later.

Mmm yeah. Great idea!
Yes for weight and stability. Also, the heavier the lower the resonance frequence, and less ringing.

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[sebr023]

I have several doweling jigs.  Each one excels at one type of joint or another. 

The cheap (and reliable) Rockler jig is excellent for working using 3/4” thick stock, and with some thought, can be useful with other thicknesses of material.

The self-centering jig works well with other thicknesses.  (But get one that uses bushings for all the holes—it will allow you to clamp and drill 4 same sized holes per setting).  The better jigs arrive fully adjusted.  A cheaper one may require an hour or more of tedious adjustment.  I bought a Harbor Freight self-centering jig just to get the screw in bushings.  (The entire jig & bushings cost less than just buying bushings elsewhere, but the jig is junk.)

The CMT jig is as fast or faster than a Domino in many instances, but it is for sheet goods only. 

The total spent on all three is less than a Jessem jig. 

On the minus side, there are some dowel jigs that I have used once and they proved to be less versatile than they would first appear. 

Dowels will never be fully replaced by Dominoes, because at the top end of the doweling systems is full automation which is faster and uses cheaper dowels than Dominoes. 

And my long-dormant biscuit cutter is starting to see use again.  None of my biscuit joints have ever failed, they are faster and easier to use than any other system. 

By nature, I overbuild everything.  Lately, I am trying to choose a joinery method that will get the job done efficiently, and still be strong enough for the application. 

Before springing for the Jessem jig, I would get the Rockler one ($27.00 including bit), to see if you like working with dowels (you will be amazed at how, with some thought, the Rockler jig can handle 80% of the Jessem’s jobs.)

I have both the 3/8” and 1/2” versions. 

Thanks for that thorough answer.
We don’t have tickler here in Canada. Maybe Lee valley and veritas have something similar. I’ll have a look at the rockler nontheless. But something 30$ usd could easily be sold to 99,99 cad + 50$ shipping. Wouldn’t surprises me.

(As an exemple, I wanted to purchase the tso track square guide, on tso website. Square is 180$, systainer 80$, foam insert 50$. 100$ shipping. Total 410$. 30% echange rate, something like 586 CAD for a square in a systainer. So I didn’t ordered. )

I tried using a cheap (master craft from Canadian tire) biscuit joiner, but it didn’t worked well at all!
Maybe having a better quality biscuit joiner would result in higher results.

What’s the CMT jig?

I mainly do sheet good project for now.

 

[Birdhunter]

Someone suggested a biscuit machine and I agree with that suggestion. Dowels are excellent for some applications but require total accuracy. I have the two Domino machines but still use biscuits occasionally.

 

[sebr023]

Someone suggested a biscuit machine and I agree with that suggestion. Dowels are excellent for some applications but require total accuracy. I have the two Domino machines but still use biscuits occasionally.

You have 2 domino machine?! Damn!

Any suggestion on quality biscuit jointer ?

I feel like dowel would be way stronger than biscuit.

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[ChuckM]

If you really want to go for a biscuit joiner, try Kijiji. I wouldn't get a new machine given its limited applications compared to, say, a domino joiner.

I'm aware that you would want a domino joiner -- one day. My only advice is to change it to today as the versatile machine is beyond building carcases or tables or beds. I use it for everything (some 50 or more small and large projects) after selling my mortiser and biscuit joiner more than ten years ago.

The DF500 will more than suffice for most woodworkers.

For the speaker stand in your example, I could finish it in under one hour including assembly (stock preparation not included). Of course, beginners need to learn and spend more time.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I just don't see the need for joinery in constructing this column at all. The glue does the whole job, which is the point of oversize, and then flush trimming. This takes all alignment out of the picture.
The base and mounting flange (for the speaker) would need some method of attachment, dealer's choice there.

 

[sebr023]

I just don't see the need for joinery in constructing this column at all. The glue does the whole job, which is the point of oversize, and then flush trimming. This takes all alignment out of the picture.
The base and mounting flange (for the speaker) would need some method of attachment, dealer's choice there.

Makes very much sense.

Then the base and top plate could use some dowel?!

We won’t see the screws if I chose to simply screw them.

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[sebr023]

If you really want to go for a biscuit joiner, try Kijiji. I wouldn't get a new machine given its limited applications compared to, say, a domino joiner.

I'm aware that you would want a domino joiner -- one day. My only advice is to change it to today as the versatile machine is beyond building carcases or tables or beds. I use it for everything (some 50 or more small and large projects) after selling my mortiser and biscuit joiner more than ten years ago.

The DF500 will more than suffice for most woodworkers.

For the speaker stand in your example, I could finish it in under one hour including assembly (stock preparation not included). Of course, beginners need to learn and spend more time.

I know! It’s just that’s it’s nearly 2k with 15% sales taxe and, possibly, shipping. For a tool that ill use couple time a years. It’s hard to justify it.

And used Festool are selling like 50$ off of new one

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[Tom the Remodeler]

Hi [member=78111]sebr023[/member]

I have the aluminum Jessem 8mm Doweling jig, along with the supplementary 6mm, 10mm, and 12mm inserts. I really like it. The stainless steel locating pins serve the same function as the flippers on the Domino machines, so it's pretty easy/straightforward to produce mating joints.

For reference, I also have a DF-700, DD-40P, Lamello Zeta, as well as a horizontal mortiser, and they each have their place. My general preference is to use dowels, so the DF-700 only sees occasional use.
-- When I'm working in my Shop I prefer to use the horizontal mortiser, due to the ease of setup, repeatability, etc....
-- The DD-40P is mostly used for panel work and joinery
-- Lamello Zeta is great for knock-down panel work, and is a dream for building jigs
-- The Jessem doweling jig gets used extensively for applications where the DD-40P doesn't have the range of setup or depth for larger/longer dowels. I also prefer using the Jessem doweling jig for on-site work since there are very few moving parts, so I'm less concerned about damage
-- DF-700 is mostly used in applications where I want a little bit of lateral play between mating pieces

In terms of choosing between the stainless steel versus aluminum, I'll point out that the aluminum kit allows for larger diameter dowels. The stainless steel is only available up to 10mm, whereas the aluminum kit adds the option for 12mm dowels.

For your column project, I'd suggest looking at a spline, or perhaps a lock miter joint (assuming you have a router table or shaper).

 

[sebr023]

Hi [member=78111]sebr023[/member]

I have the aluminum Jessem 8mm Doweling jig, along with the supplementary 6mm, 10mm, and 12mm inserts. I really like it. The stainless steel locating pins serve the same function as the flippers on the Domino machines, so it's pretty easy/straightforward to produce mating joints.

For reference, I also have a DF-700, DD-40P, Lamello Zeta, as well as a horizontal mortiser, and they each have their place. My general preference is to use dowels, so the DF-700 only sees occasional use.
-- When I'm working in my Shop I prefer to use the horizontal mortiser, due to the ease of setup, repeatability, etc....
-- The DD-40P is mostly used for panel work and joinery
-- Lamello Zeta is great for knock-down panel work, and is a dream for building jigs
-- The Jessem doweling jig gets used extensively for applications where the DD-40P doesn't have the range of setup or depth for larger/longer dowels. I also prefer using the Jessem doweling jig for on-site work since there are very few moving parts, so I'm less concerned about damage
-- DF-700 is mostly used in applications where I want a little bit of lateral play between mating pieces

In terms of choosing between the stainless steel versus aluminum, I'll point out that the aluminum kit allows for larger diameter dowels. The stainless steel is only available up to 10mm, whereas the aluminum kit adds the option for 12mm dowels.

For your column project, I'd suggest looking at a spline, or perhaps a lock miter joint (assuming you have a router table or shaper).

On Jesse’s website, they say the stainless goes to 1/2in, which is closer to 12mm than 100. Also with the stainless, you have the 45 degres bracket. For all 3 sizes, and 1 angle, it’s 189 cad.

For the aluminium version, it’s 289 and you don’t have the 45* angle.

I do have a router table, a makeshift one, but it’s in storage right now as the shop isn’t done (is it even started) organizing. I have on hand: miter saw, table saw, palm router, sander and shaper origin. I thought of maybe having 1 at the right size, the other one a bit larger and trimmed them to size using table saw, or like someone suggested, using the router to flush trim.

Thank you for your use case! The Mafell looks impressive as well!

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[Packard]

I have several doweling jigs.  Each one excels at one type of joint or another. 

The cheap (and reliable) Rockler jig is excellent for working using 3/4” thick stock, and with some thought, can be useful with other thicknesses of material.

The self-centering jig works well with other thicknesses.  (But get one that uses bushings for all the holes—it will allow you to clamp and drill 4 same sized holes per setting).  The better jigs arrive fully adjusted.  A cheaper one may require an hour or more of tedious adjustment.  I bought a Harbor Freight self-centering jig just to get the screw in bushings.  (The entire jig & bushings cost less than just buying bushings elsewhere, but the jig is junk.)

The CMT jig is as fast or faster than a Domino in many instances, but it is for sheet goods only. 

The total spent on all three is less than a Jessem jig. 

On the minus side, there are some dowel jigs that I have used once and they proved to be less versatile than they would first appear. 

Dowels will never be fully replaced by Dominoes, because at the top end of the doweling systems is full automation which is faster and uses cheaper dowels than Dominoes. 

And my long-dormant biscuit cutter is starting to see use again.  None of my biscuit joints have ever failed, they are faster and easier to use than any other system. 

By nature, I overbuild everything.  Lately, I am trying to choose a joinery method that will get the job done efficiently, and still be strong enough for the application. 

Before springing for the Jessem jig, I would get the Rockler one ($27.00 including bit), to see if you like working with dowels (you will be amazed at how, with some thought, the Rockler jig can handle 80% of the Jessem’s jobs.)

I have both the 3/8” and 1/2” versions. 

What’s the CMT jig?

I mainly do sheet good project for now.

CMT is the name of the manufacturer.  It is a European company, and while many of their products are distributed in the USA and Canada, the dowel jig is not. 

I was able to get it from Amazon.de (Germany) using my regular Amazon account.  They have a language conversion option and I could read it in English.  Shipping was about 7 - 10 days and the shipping costs were moderate.

The best literature I could find on this is from IGM, a European distributor.  They sell both the edge joining jig and the center joining template under their own brand name.  But it is the CMT jig that has been re-named.

IGM will sell internationally, but I could not get my AMEX or VISA to work on their site.

IGM has a good video on this product, but I could not find it now.  They have a step by step article that is pretty good.  I doubt that they deleted the video, so more searching on their site will probably yield the video.
https://igmtools.com/articles/step-by-step-dowel-joint-production/

Towards the bottom of the linked page (below) is a link for “VIDEOS”.  Click that link and you should see a pretty good video of this jig in action.
https://igmtools.com/igm-fkp656-boring-jig-set-656-mm-euro-32-mm--free-100pcs-dowels/?tab=6

But note:  This is just for sheet goods.

A while back, I demoed a 1953 era bathroom which had site built cabinets built using butt joints and hammer driven nails (no glue).  I was amazed how difficult it was to break apart.  Far more difficult than breaking up a 1990s era cabinets in another bathroom. 

On a lark, I built a wall mounted medicine cabinet using just butt joints and a nail gun (and glue).  I was amazed how solid it was when assembled.  Of course it gains a lot of structure from being attached to the wall.  I have little doubt that the cabinet will remain solid for the next 20 years.

I don’t think I will go back to that type of construction any time in the future.  It did not feel like woodworking. But an interesting experiment.