Peter_C said:
tjskinny said:
Great Idea ! I have seen some small sections of track being used as a jig but without the access holes.
Tom did that with a short piece of track attached to thick wood, then plunged saw "A" in so all others would be set to the same. Having a groove cut deep into solid wood would give one a go, no go situation. Combine the two ways and we might be onto a great design. Now I just need to buy another rail to cut up.
This is what Peter is refering to.
I have 5 TS saws, I needed them all to match. I've also have set others saws to match mine.
To make this work the best, if you have R and E model saws, use the R model for your baseline saw. The E has a little more adjustment than the R.
Having rail to cut is not an issue for me. 2 weeks ago I had to cut one of the 16' rails to 13'.
The base material I used is HDPE. I choose this over wood for the stability of the material.
Secured the rail to the HDPE, made sure the slop was out of the gibbs. Locked the saw to the rail using the anti-kickback devices, plunged full depth while cutting the HDPE.
Any subsequent saws are set on the rail unplugged or batteries removed, slowly plunge into the existing cut. If the blade does not freely enter the cut, loosen the base screws, plunge into the cut, once the blade is in the kerf pull the FastFix up, tighten the screws, remove saw from jig, flip thighted balance of screws.
This fixture sets the saws aligned to each other and sets the saws toe.
Tom