Joining two MFT/3 Tables

[paul_david_thomas]

Hi,

I have joined two MFT/3 tables together with 484455. However, I think this is not long enough. It's got four small screws in it. However, when I slide it between the two tables, I can only screw in three of them - it's just not long enough.

Anyone else had this problem ?

 

[Deke]

I wish I had this problem! I saw your set up in another thread and boy did it get me thinking!

 

[tbellemare]

Paul:

Are you sure you're not using the guide rail connectors instead of the MFT connectors?

The "inside" holes on the MFT conenctors are about 2-1/2" from the ends and on the guide rail connectors are about 4-1/4" inboard. The cross section of the latter is also smaller, otherwise they look similar.

Tom

 

[paul_david_thomas]

I'll double check in the morning and hit my head if i've been really silly...

 

[paul_david_thomas]

bugger. I put the tables away without testing.

when some special glue turns up for my edgebander, I'll put the tables up again - and see if I've got it wrong...

 

[Dave Ronyak]

You can also join two or more MFTs (providing both are either old or new style) using a pair of shopmade "Squaring Arms" as taught by Jerry Work in his MFT Manual.  Here is a photo of two MFT 800s joined together but spaced significantly further apart than is possible with the Festool metal connectors.  The shopmade connectors enabled me to setup the exact distance needed to grip the small shelf blanks for cutting out their centers with a jigsaw and thereafter routing a lip to hold a glass insert.  And I could attach a "Big Gulp" dust collector below the gap between the two MFTs to catch most of the sawdust.

Here's a view from above

and another from below

I find that I use these Squaring Arms more as MFT connectors than for their original purpose of keeping paneled doors square as taught by Jerry Work.  I may eventually make a longer, more substantial set just for the purpose of joining MFTs for various tasks.  Just as with use of the Festool metal connectors, these Shopmade arms help to level the tops of the MFTs at the same elevation.

Dave R.

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

That is an awesome job Dave.  I may have to use that one it the future....

Best,
Todd

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I think Jerry Work deserves more thanks than I do.

Dave R.

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

Well then thanks to Jerry Work also for this excellent idea !!!!

Best,
Todd

 

[Ken Slemmer]

Dave R.

Thank you for the pictures and information in your post.  And a thank you for Jerry Work.

Seems I have another small to do project on hand.

Ken S.

 

[Bob Marino]

  Dave,

Wow, thanks for posting the pics. Yes, thanks to Jerry too .

Bob

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Thanks, Bob.  After reading a couple of other threads tonight, one of which had to do with things NAINA like modular systems, I conceived of placing 4 MFTs in line using wooden beam connectors like those in the 2 MFTs setup.  Between the MFTs Nr 1  and Nr. 2 would be located a drop in router top much like the setup with the MFS you commented on, and between MFTs Nr. 2 and Nr. 3 would be a shopmade bridging module holding a CMS designed so that when dropped into place the height of the cutting table of the CMS would match tha of the line of MFT tops.  If / when the CMS is not needed, it could be lifted out if necessary and replaced with a panel of MDF or plywood.  The CMS and router table inserts could be switched as needed if designed to be the same width, and lefties and righties could have it whichever way they preferred there feed stock to rest on the CMS.  Add a few shopmade trays that attach to the side rails for my concept of a "poor-man's" version of a portable shop. 

Dave R.

 

[Warrior]

4 MFTs and poorman's shop?

 

[Deke]

Can two MFT's be joined in a "T"? I mean, I'm sure they could, but has anyone done this?

 

[tbellemare]

MFT's can be joined many ways...

'Sorry, I think I lost focus on this the first time around. I should have pointed out that 8 mm hex nuts can be used as sliding, captured fasteners in the track that the Festool connector uses. You could use that to fashion a right angle connection. It won't necessarily align the top but that could be addressed while tightening the connection.

Tom

 

[kmhphoto]

MFT's can be joined many ways...

Tom

Nice link to your site where he can buy one but no information about how they can be joined in a "T" ;D

 

[Deke]

The "T" idea actually comes from the EZ Smart Power Bench. He allows you to configure two benches into a T as well as an L, side by side and long. Come to think of it, the L would be very nice for my stationary set up - give me a wider cross cut with more support and more space to work. You know, if this can be done, maybe I don't need to know. I might not be able to keep myself from going out and getting another MFT/3!

Any way, the trick is to have a connector that is at a right angle vs a straight rod. Could probably put something together with T track clamps... Hmmm...

 

[Dave Ronyak]

MFT's can be joined many ways...

Tom

Tom,

That's a nice link to demonstrate the basic capabilities of a single MFT/3.  It contains nothing about joining two or more MFTs in any way, let alone into a T-shape.

Deke,

I don't have any MFT/3s, but I do have three earlier style MFTs, one MFT 1080, and two MFT 800s.  I have joined them into an L-shape using only one of Festool's metal connectors.  My standard setup is to join them in-line using a pair of Festool's metal connectors.  I have also joined them in-line but spaced apart using a pair of Squaring Arms which I made based on the description given in Jerry Work's manual on use of the (old style) MFTs.  Here's an example of a spaced in-line arrangement.  The tables are positioned exactly the right distance apart to enable the workpieces to be wedged between the tops of the MFTS to facilitate cutting out the centers and routing a lip on the short shelves.  Note the laminated (walnut and 1/2 inch birch plywood member joining the tables.  There is a similar connector linking the MFTs in the back.

Right angle brackets for joining a pair of MFT/3s in a T-shape could be made of solid wood and plywood.  For each right angle connector bracket, make a right triangle of 3/4 plywood or MDF.  Then make short lengths of  ~1" x 3" as if you were making short Squaring Arms, each with at least a couple of holes for insertion of T-bolts so the short arm can be attached to the side rails of the MFT/3 (or any MFT).  Join the short Squaring Arms to the base and elevation sides of your plywood triangle using dados or Domino tenons and glue, offsetting the Squaring Arms elevation relative to the triangle so you can easily access the knobs to tighten the T-bolts upon installation of your Right Angle Connector Brackets.  Obviously, you could make up the right triangle with reinforced edges, then bore two holes through each of those edge for insertion of the T-bolts.

Not that if you make these brackets accurately, they could also be used for setup and assembly work.  The flanges with the T-bolt holes can be clamped to the two workpieces to be held at a right angle to each another.

As others have said, T-connectors could also be made of metal.  If you have access to any right angle brackets made from angle iron or aluminum, all you'd have to do is drill some holes for insertion of a pair of  T-bolts in each arm.  Commercially available shelf brackets might work, but most that I have seen do not have a true 90 degree angle between their arms; they intentionally have a larger included angle so that the shelf is tilted slightly upward when installed and gradually tilts toward level when loaded.

Dave R.

 

[Deke]

Thanks Dave! This is dangerous for me. I'm telling you, my next purchase is shaping up to be a second MFT.