Jointer recommendation

Well guys. I got this. 6 inch used unit I found on Craigslist. Gotta get it all setup and put on new blades. Questions is if I go and make it perfectly level and everything can I lift the unit by the ends of the tables or will that move them a tiny bit ? If I need to joint a board longer then 4ft I have to carry it outside
 

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Moparfan90 said:
Well guys. I got this. 6 inch used unit I found on Craigslist. Gotta get it all setup and put on new blades. Questions is if I go and make it perfectly level and everything can I lift the unit by the ends of the tables or will that move them a tiny bit ? If I need to joint a board longer then 4ft I have to carry it outside
Lifting by the ends is a risky thing to do.  It can get the tables out of alignment and even damage them.  Having said that, you can probably get away with doing it a few times, but if you are planning to move it routinely, make a plywood ramp from the shop door to the ground if needed.
And congratulations!  You just moved up to the next level!!
BTW, there's lot of videos on the net showing how to set up the jointer.  Take your time and get it right or you won't be happy with the
jointer.
 
Moparfan90 said:
Well guys. I got this. 6 inch used unit I found on Craigslist. Gotta get it all setup and put on new blades. Questions is if I go and make it perfectly level and everything can I lift the unit by the ends of the tables or will that move them a tiny bit ? If I need to joint a board longer then 4ft I have to carry it outside

WOW! What a find! if you don't mind me asking, what did you give for it and what part of the US are you in? I'm in the same boat. I have a little Porter Cable jointer and I'm tempted to throw it in the trash every time I use it.

CONGRATS!
 
Long Island, NY. I gave him $600 it's not mint the tables have a little surface rust. I went over it with high grit sand paper and then waxed it.
 
I would never, even once, apply force to the infeed or outfeed tables. They have to be aligned with great precision to get the best from the jointer.

Also, the blade guard isn't over the blade. Is it being held back?
 
Birdhunter said:
I would never, even once, apply force to the infeed or outfeed tables. They have to be aligned with great precision to get the best from the jointer.

Also, the blade guard isn't over the blade. Is it being held back?

I pulled the fence back when I was cleaning it. So the gaurd spun around
 
Yes, I've had that happen. It's a pain to wind up the spring. I have an 8" Powermatic jointer. Great tool.
 
marmot said:
Holmz said:
Use a hand plane.

I always laugh out loud when I read vapid responses such as this one.  The OP asked a simple question regarding a jointer recommendation.  This poster responds, for some odd reason, with a vague tool recommendation that will not help the original question much.

What if the original poster isn't able to use a hand plane regularly for minutes/hours?  What is the original poster wants a jointer because it also reminds him of working with a relative in the past?  What if the original poster just doesn't like hand planing?  Which hand plane do you recommend, Holmz?  If someone asks you for your car recommendation, do you just respond with "Use a boat." or "Use a bicycle."?

The best question:  why even respond with such an assumingly negative and unhelpful connotation?
I don't see how the statement is unhelpful or negative. A handplane is a great solution for limited space, which the op stated he had. It's also what every wood worker would use until stationery machine powered jointers became more accessible.
There was far more negativity in your post than the perfectly sound recommendation to use a hand plane.
I would suggest a jointer plane, as it's designed specifically for jointing wood, something the op apparently needs to do.
 
I have a 24" Joiner Plane and I have used it to straighten wide table top glue up's and wide slabs but, I prefer to use my Poitras Long Bed 8" wide jointer.  I have no difficulties taking out twists and bows in boards up to 10' long (worked out the process over many years).  I'd advise getting the widest and longest jointer you can find (and afford).
 
If your just using it for edge jointing, why now use your TS55 w/ guide rail.

You can also use a router table with a offset fence.

 
Congratulations on the planer! Mine is essentially the same but with the helical blade set up! Your going to love that!

Agreed on moving it by the table, throwing a ramp is a great idea and removing it from the base will actually save weight, the base is actually steel and weighs quote a few pounds on its own. The base I made is all PT with 3" rubber casters. Moves around super easy and the locks on all four wheels make it super stable.
 

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Is there any usefulness in working through other methods for those that do not space for a jointer, or do have a Craig's list handy?
Or has the thread concluded except for the handy ideas like ramps, and not flexing the extensions?

I am thinking router sled, and as was mentioned using a track saw.
One could also potentially use a router either with a long bit, or some style of narrow sled.

The jointer plane I use is an ECE/primus:http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/ecejointerplane.aspx
I have a smaller unit of the same manufacturer that use to get the high spots down, and then do long swipes with the larger plane.

On a different note... Which MoPars?
 
There is never anything wrong with going the hand tool route. It's really a matter of preference and I think that is what you are seeing in this and many other threads. I personally have tried flattening a board with a hand plane; have a jointer plane, a very nice low angle Veritas smoother, a block plane, even a chisel plane (which has limited usefulness I admit). I've also tried jointing a board with hand planes. I prefer the power jointer and planer method. Even when I had limited space I went that router early on because that is what yielded the best results in the shortest period of time. In fact, regardless of time, it yields the best results for me. I just don't wish to spend my time perfection my hand plane flattening and jointing techniques. I will use a hand plane for short boards or to smooth out a glue joint. I have used a spokeshave to carve out curves. All of these yield acceptable results for me because they are small jobs easily handled by hand planes and tools. So, it seems sometimes as if people take offense that hand tools aren't the method of choice but, again, it's really a matter of preference. So, great luck on getting a Powermatic Jointer used that was in good shape. I agree I wouldn't regularly lift the jointer by its tables. I'm not sure to what use it will be put but when I have a very long board that has to be jointed, I probably would use something like the Festool TS55. I still wouldn't choose a hand plane as I know I wouldn't get the results that would satisfy me, but that's my preference.

The main reason I continue to come back to the FOG is because of the variety of solutions suggested. It gives me a lot more choices for any particular solution; some I reject and some I use.
 
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