Jointer
- Thread starter suds
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Mark Carlson
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Yes on owning and using a jointer. A TS55 can give you a straight edge but can't make the face of rough lumber flat.
If you buy surfaced lumber you could might get away with not owning a jointer. I've never been able to buy surfaced
lumber that was actually flat so I always buy rough and mill myself.
~mark
If you buy surfaced lumber you could might get away with not owning a jointer. I've never been able to buy surfaced
lumber that was actually flat so I always buy rough and mill myself.
~mark
Mark Carlson said:
Suds,
Nothing is more frustrating than thinking you have stock that's straight and square....and you don't. It is especially frustrating when you're gluing up a panel, where the ability to get it flat and the faces parallel after the glue up becomes much harder than if the stock was prepared properly before the glue up. Unless you happen to be a wizard with hand planes, and even then I'd still spend more time working the stock before glue up.
As Mark implies in his post, straight edging two boards so you can get a viable glue joint is starting in the middle of the process. You're assuming that the face of the board where you placed the guide rail is flat and that the rip cut is 90 degrees to this flat face. The odds that it is flat if you haven't recently run it through a jointer are close to zero.
Jim
If you work with solid woods you must have a jointer to properly prepare rough lumber. There is really no way to face a board flat before going to the planer to thickness it...unless you opt for the old school method and get out the scrub plane.
The TS55/75 might work fine for the edges if you had to, but the jointer/table saw is a better approach.
The TS55/75 might work fine for the edges if you had to, but the jointer/table saw is a better approach.
Overtime
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Welcome Suds.
Depends on what kind of projects you do, and other things like space and $.
I have a jointer and use it on most every project that uses solid wood. Rough stock or S4S (Surfaced all Four Sides) thats's the already milled stock on the shelves at your local home store or lumber yard. They all see the jointer first. Then on to whatever is next .
If your setting up a small stationary shop and space and cost are not barriers, then a jointer is just the ticket if you plan on doing projects that include solid wood - hard or soft. (everything that is not plywood) They come in small, medium and large ;D
While both the hand tool and Festool purist's have shown time and again that it is possible to flatten and edge joint just about any lumber stock, having a jointer at your disposal will be an asset in both time and quality of work.
A jointer is a very simple and uncomplicated machine and is easy to maintain and adjust.
Depends on what kind of projects you do, and other things like space and $.
I have a jointer and use it on most every project that uses solid wood. Rough stock or S4S (Surfaced all Four Sides) thats's the already milled stock on the shelves at your local home store or lumber yard. They all see the jointer first. Then on to whatever is next .
If your setting up a small stationary shop and space and cost are not barriers, then a jointer is just the ticket if you plan on doing projects that include solid wood - hard or soft. (everything that is not plywood) They come in small, medium and large ;D
While both the hand tool and Festool purist's have shown time and again that it is possible to flatten and edge joint just about any lumber stock, having a jointer at your disposal will be an asset in both time and quality of work.
A jointer is a very simple and uncomplicated machine and is easy to maintain and adjust.
Steve Jones
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Feels like we need an against just to try to balance this discussion a little - first I'm actually not arguing with anything posted thus far, they all made good points.
I work with mostly plywood, the solid board I use is mostly 2" or 2 1/2" x 3/4 for face frames and rails & stiles, it comes flat, square, and ready to use. I don't own a jointer, haven't had one for years and don't miss one.
I DO have a planer, if two opposing faces of a board are flat and parallel, I can do everything I need with the TS55 and a rail.
I work with mostly plywood, the solid board I use is mostly 2" or 2 1/2" x 3/4 for face frames and rails & stiles, it comes flat, square, and ready to use. I don't own a jointer, haven't had one for years and don't miss one.
I DO have a planer, if two opposing faces of a board are flat and parallel, I can do everything I need with the TS55 and a rail.
Dave Ronyak
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I have a jointer/planer as well as a TS 55 and a table saw. Yes, you can buy S2S stock and rip the edges with your TS 55. But frequently when a flat, straight wider board is ripped, pent up forces are released as the board is ripped into two narrower boards, resulting in one or both no longer being straight and flat. A jointer enables flattening and straightening those cutoff boards, assuming there is enough thickness and width to obtain a straight board of useful dimensions. In fact, for this reason I sometimes design my project in detail and then order S4S stock of near exact dimensions. That saves a lot of time and transfers the risk for warpage to the lumber supplier. Most of the time I compare the prices at which I can buy S4S stock and rough lumber. Most dealers in my locale do not offer S2S, or if they do, the price is not much less than for S4S so I usually let them take the risk of warpage.
Dave R.
Dave R.
bonesbr549
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I'll join in this discussion. IMO, you need to have your stock square & flat. To get that there are multiple ways. I've use hand planes and winding sticks and had stock as flat as the stock that rolls off my 12" Grizzly 1000 lb beast, just not nearly as fast. I have the lie-niesen #7 and the LN scrubb. Both work equally well but I prefer the griz for obvious reasons. I can reccomend Rob Cosmons rough to ready DVD.
fidelfs
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You can find his Website here but you will be for a good workout.
It takes time to master these techniques but they are great.
I bought mines at Woodcraft and they have them some time in special.
Let me just gloat about my new jointer, it's being delivered today.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/im...0?ie=UTF8&n=228013&s=hi&qid=1219946258&sr=8-1
It takes time to master these techniques but they are great.
I bought mines at Woodcraft and they have them some time in special.
Let me just gloat about my new jointer, it's being delivered today.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/im...0?ie=UTF8&n=228013&s=hi&qid=1219946258&sr=8-1
bonesbr549
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suds said:
I got mine from Lie-nielsens website when I bought the number 7. I can also reccomend David Charlseworths dvd on sharpening. I hated hand tools because I could not sharpen anything. Rob and David both are easy to understand and help. As someone else pointed out you will use elbow grease. The scrubb plane will hog of wood in a hurry and the number 7 will take it down flat. You also have the added fact your hearing is not being damaged and you have developed a skill. When you run a fine plane across a board and pull up a shaving thin enough to read through, it makes you smile and no muffs. On the other hand, turn on the jointer whip it through and its done.
Suds, I had a BIG Delta RJ42 jointer at school and all I used it for was to clean up one edge of a board, although you can do much more if you choose to.
Ours had a rabeting table on it, you can cut tapers on it and flatten one surface of a cupped board before it hits your planer. But we never did any of this other work.
I had a dedicated dado setup on a smaller TS, tapers were easier to cut on the large TS with a homemade jig, and we bought our wood S2S, so it wasn't cupped. Even if it was cupped, I'd use our smaller portable planer to flatten one side before it went to the big 24" planer.
Flattening a board on a jointer isn't an easy thing to do either.
At home, I just use my TS with my sharp Amana blade on it to clean the edges of a board.
Steve
Ours had a rabeting table on it, you can cut tapers on it and flatten one surface of a cupped board before it hits your planer. But we never did any of this other work.
I had a dedicated dado setup on a smaller TS, tapers were easier to cut on the large TS with a homemade jig, and we bought our wood S2S, so it wasn't cupped. Even if it was cupped, I'd use our smaller portable planer to flatten one side before it went to the big 24" planer.
Flattening a board on a jointer isn't an easy thing to do either.
At home, I just use my TS with my sharp Amana blade on it to clean the edges of a board.
Steve
fidelfs
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Overtime,
It is a really nice machine (beast). It was deliver without any dent or scratch really good service. It was well protected with a wooden crate.
When I removed the plywood I could see all the protection and I was satisfied [attachthumb=1]. The jointer was bolted to the crate so that helped to keep the machine without any scratch. [attachthumb=2].
You can see all the protective grease and plastic to cover both tables (jointer/planner) [attachthumb=3]. The accessories came in a box a nothing was missing. [attachthumb=4].
The only complaint was the tables were no coplanar and I have to setup the knives. I live in Houston, TX and my garage face east so in the after was not an easy chore with a 100 degrees.
I am using the Jet Heavy-Duty Universal Mobile Base and it works great to keep my jointer mobile (remember this is my garage and my wife wants to use the garage for her car
) [attachthumb=5].
It does a great job, I am working with hard maple and I have to pass it 2 times and the result was silk smooth [attachthumb=6]. My previous jointer (Ridgid 6") had a hard time working with hard maple.
It is easy to convert, the dust extraction work flawlessly with my delta 1HP dust extraction, much better than my rigid equipment. It saves a lot of room in my garage and when I have to move the jointer, the mobile base makes this task an effortless one.
It is a really nice machine (beast). It was deliver without any dent or scratch really good service. It was well protected with a wooden crate.
When I removed the plywood I could see all the protection and I was satisfied [attachthumb=1]. The jointer was bolted to the crate so that helped to keep the machine without any scratch. [attachthumb=2].
You can see all the protective grease and plastic to cover both tables (jointer/planner) [attachthumb=3]. The accessories came in a box a nothing was missing. [attachthumb=4].
The only complaint was the tables were no coplanar and I have to setup the knives. I live in Houston, TX and my garage face east so in the after was not an easy chore with a 100 degrees.
I am using the Jet Heavy-Duty Universal Mobile Base and it works great to keep my jointer mobile (remember this is my garage and my wife wants to use the garage for her car
) [attachthumb=5].It does a great job, I am working with hard maple and I have to pass it 2 times and the result was silk smooth [attachthumb=6]. My previous jointer (Ridgid 6") had a hard time working with hard maple.
It is easy to convert, the dust extraction work flawlessly with my delta 1HP dust extraction, much better than my rigid equipment. It saves a lot of room in my garage and when I have to move the jointer, the mobile base makes this task an effortless one.
Overtime
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- Jan 25, 2007
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In this class of 12" jointer / planer combos, The jet has what looks like the most efficient and elegant changeover design.
And the Rojec looks quite awkward with the tables folding forward blocking easy access to the planer aspect of the machine. Especially if it stays near a wall.
The Minimax is 2x the cost.
The only other machine in the jet $ category would be the two choices offered by Grizzly, first the Spiral blade unit
http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Jointer-Planer-w-Spiral-Cutterhead/G0634
And the straight blade unit
http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Jointer-Planer/G0633
Here is the Jet JJP-12
And the Minimax FS30
And the Rojec 315
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=28316
The jet looks like a great choice, the straight blades will be easy to resharpen in house and it looks like the planer table is the only one with an extra support extension post for raising and lowering the table.
Good luck with what looks to be a fine machine. ;D
And the Rojec looks quite awkward with the tables folding forward blocking easy access to the planer aspect of the machine. Especially if it stays near a wall.
The Minimax is 2x the cost.
The only other machine in the jet $ category would be the two choices offered by Grizzly, first the Spiral blade unit
http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Jointer-Planer-w-Spiral-Cutterhead/G0634
And the straight blade unit
http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Jointer-Planer/G0633
Here is the Jet JJP-12
And the Minimax FS30
And the Rojec 315
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=28316
The jet looks like a great choice, the straight blades will be easy to resharpen in house and it looks like the planer table is the only one with an extra support extension post for raising and lowering the table.
Good luck with what looks to be a fine machine. ;D
