Just blew up my power surge using Kapex + MIDI

[JINRO]

I have Kapex plugged into MIDI, which is plugged to Tripp lite (ISOBAR8ULTRA: 3300 joules). I was slide cutting 1/2 inch plywood, 3 stacked, about 4 inches in wide. So it was less than 2 inches thick.  It cut around 1-2 inches and boom... Power surge protector gone...

Anyone had similar issue using Kapex connected to Festool vacuum? I recently bought Kapex so I'm not sure of proper usage with MIDI or any other Festool vacuums. 

Is it better to use Kapex and Vacuum separately to prevent future surge outage?  I mean I don't understand the issue since Kapex and vacuum were only things  running at the time this happened.  I'm thinking of using Kapex and Vacuum by plugging them to different outlet, remote starting vacuum when I use Kapex.  This is redundant step but I really don't want to blow up any ot the three equipments next time I use them.

Any advise will be much appreciated. Thanks

 

[rhoyer]

Well a quick look at the specs of your surge protector (https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3006344.pdf) says your strip is rated for output of 1440W and the CT MIDI says it might use as much as 2400W with a tool plugged in.

I have to say I, personally, always avoid using anything between the wall and a tool unless I absolutely have to use an extension cord. If that's the case I always over rate the cord.

 

[peter halle]

I guess the first question would be if you "blew up" (as you wrote) your isobarr or you tripped the breaker in it?  In quickly glancing at them just now I saw that they are rated for 15 amps but the internal circuit breaker is rated at 12 amps.  Personally I would lose using the Isobarr in this situation.

I regularly use my Kapex and either my old CT-22 or my newer CT-Midi on a 15 amp circuit plugged in thru the CT.

Peter

 

[Cheese]

I guess the first question would be if you "blew up" (as you wrote) your isobarr or you tripped the breaker in it?  In quickly glancing at them just now I saw that they are rated for 15 amps but the internal circuit breaker is rated at 12 amps.  Personally I would lose using the Isobarr in this situation.

I regularly use my Kapex and either my old CT-22 or my newer CT-Midi on a 15 amp circuit plugged in thru the CT.

Peter

I'm with Peter on this...I used the Kapex with a Fein Turbo II for 7 years, then with the older MIDI for 6 months and finally with the new MIDI for the last 12 months. No issues what so ever.  [smile]

XENA is adorable Peter

 

[Jim_in_PA]

Amps/Watts matter. It sounds like from what another poster found that you exceeded the specifications for your surge suppressor electrical capabilities. You need a 20 amp 120v power source for the combination of a Festool CT-anything that's also powering another tool, especially one of the higher draw tools like the Kapex, OF1400, OF2200, etc. You're probably best served not using a surge suppressor with that setup and just unplug when not in use.

 

[Mortiser]

I always run my Kapex on a 20A circuit plugged directly to the outlet. I run my CT-26 on another 20A circuit and use my bluetooth remote to control the CT-26 when using the Kapex. Yeah, I know, it's a little more trouble, but I don't have to worry about starving anything for amperage or worry about a voltage drop. Never had any issues.
Good luck with yours.
----
Rich

 

[JINRO]

Thanks so much all! It's also good to know Tripp Lite was not enough to use Kapex+Vacuum together.

I'll plug them both directly to 20A Outlets. Good thing MIDI has bluetooth remote capability which won't be too much hassle when I use them.

Thanks so much!

 

[Ebuwan]

I wondered, with new Kapex couple years ago, why not throw the bluetooth on the Kapex? Allowing the CT to fire up with the turning on of Kapex, and both in different circuits.

Like my TS55

GRRRRRR!

 

[Coen]

Because the rest of the world uses 230V, where none of these things are a problem. Kapex, CTL, garage lighting, everything on one 16A circuit and go. Adding Bluetooth $$ to the wired Kapex will only see them sell less.

The Belgians even use 20A circuits, but that is kinda cheating, as the Schuko plugs are only designed for 10A continuous, 16A temporary

All this proprietary Bluetooth nonsense should get stamped out asap to allow for cross-brand functionality.

 

[Mortiser]

[member=8955]Coen[/member] , yeah, you're right about 220V (230V), but alas...  Like metric, maybe one day we'll get there!

----
Rich

 

[JINRO]

Just installed new 20A outlet. This will be desinated for 'Vacuums' only. Current outlet will be for 'Tools' only. Everything works fine so far No outage yet. Thanks all!
Do you think Isobar will be okay to use when all vacuums/tools are connected but only have one is used at a time? So one 20A outlet desinated for Isobar for tools, other 20A outlet Isobar for vacuums only.

 

[ChuckM]

Just installed new 20A outlet. Snip.

Wow, that's quick. Didn't you need a city licence and inspection to complete it?

It took me months (mostly due to the unavailability of the circuit breakers) to get two 20A outlets installed. Still, in Canada, I needed to pay for a licence that also covered two (virtual, because of the pandemic) inspections.

 

[Jim_in_PA]

Just installed new 20A outlet. This will be desinated for 'Vacuums' only. Current outlet will be for 'Tools' only. Everything works fine so far No outage yet. Thanks all!
Do you think Isobar will be okay to use when all vacuums/tools are connected but only have one is used at a time? So one 20A outlet desinated for Isobar for tools, other 20A outlet Isobar for vacuums only.

The answer to your question is relative to the amperage/wattage that the Isobar is rated for vs the heaviest draw tool (vac in this case) you plan on plugging into it. As I mentioned previously, I wouldn't use one of the surge units for this application and never have.

 

[Coen]

Just installed new 20A outlet. Snip.

Wow, that's quick. Didn't you need a city licence and inspection to complete it?

It took me months (mostly due to the unavailability of the circuit breakers) to get two 20A outlets installed. Still, in Canada, I needed to pay for a licence that also covered two (virtual, because of the pandemic) inspections.

Lol what? The northern dictatorship over there? Why on earth would you need a license and inspections to install an outlet in your own home...

 

[ChuckM]

Lol what? The northern dictatorship over there? Why on earth would you need a license and inspections to install an outlet in your own home...

For the protection of consumers and homeowners I guess. If an electrical upgrade is not done by a licensed electrician, for example, but by the homeowner, the City wants to ensure that the proper codes are followed.

 

[mino]

... as the Schuko plugs are only designed for 10A continuous, 16A temporary ...

A note, Schuko may be only 10 A (first hear this). But the -almost-identical- "French" plugs are 16A continuous, and they fully support B-class breakers so can handle up to 160A surges. So the real problem is not there.

The real problem with the "home-style" plug is they are not designed for long-term use, i.e. without re-plug once in a while.

The metals on socket and plug are different, so after a few years of being permanently in contact, they will eventually decay chemically and arcs will start forming inside the socket with bad things ensuing ...

For permanent connection devices, or for places with explosive dust risk, it is best so switch to these:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60309https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60309

Those include copper-copper "cutting" contacts, so do not rot and can be left connected for a decade without risk.

Note:
Most (?) Festool tools do not use the nickel-plated plugs but copper-based which are a lot better on this. Above is a general comment ref. the "home" nickel-plated plugs use in permanent installations.

The IEC industrial plugs are a slam-dunk for anything permananetly connected, be it 3-phase or 1-phase. As far as I am concerned.

 

[Coen]

... as the Schuko plugs are only designed for 10A continuous, 16A temporary ...

A note, Schuko may be only 10 A (first hear this). But the -almost-identical- "French" plugs are 16A continuous, and they fully support B-class breakers so can handle up to 160A surges. So the real problem is not there.

Yeal, that's probably French imagination as the plugs are the same.

It's not uncommon to find burned-out plugs on things like 3 kW boilers. Industrial use it's always the CEE for such loads yes.

Lol what? The northern dictatorship over there? Why on earth would you need a license and inspections to install an outlet in your own home...

For the protection of consumers and homeowners I guess. If an electrical upgrade is not done by a licensed electrician, for example, but by the homeowner, the City wants to ensure that the proper codes are followed.

The city has nothing else that's more urgent...?

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

The city has nothing else that's more urgent...?

Judging from the growth of the city over the past 30 years (from a population of 750,000 to more than double its size), I think the city has taken care of all urgent matters reasonably well even with its licensing system in place.