Just bought an angle grinder - what discs should I get?

[Michael Kellough]

The “why” was explained in the attached link. I should have added a quote from the link. I will now.

Even when these brushes are used correctly, the wire bristles can break off and become stuck to the grill grates and surfaces, where they can then end up in food. When eaten, the wire bristles can cause a range of injuries and even life-threatening complications.

Hmm, what kind of face mask would prevent that?

 

[smorgasbord]

For grills, I've either use, or at least follow-up with, circular wires that are much much less likely to break off:
Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086PL7MD4

And I do know somebody who got a wire into the inside of his cheek from eating food off a grill he cleaned....

 

[Packard]

Hmm, what kind of face mask would prevent that?

I clearly changed the subject to “wire brushes” and then said, “We now return to our regularly scheduled thread”.

And the link, which I thought people would read, states the worry was about the grills, not the brushes.

I am sorry I waylaid the thread. It was meant to be a public service, as I see those same wire brushes in Lowes and Home Depot frequently.

The one good thing that comes from this is that at least a few people have been made aware, though some think if you get a good enough brush the problem goes away.

The best solution I’ve seen is a carborundum block with grooves.

 

[Cheese]

On another note, I highly suggest that if you're grinding steel items, think lawn mower blades, shovels or axes, that using a grinding disc along with a back-up plate is a lot better than using a simple solid abrasive wheel. The solid abrasive wheel tends to bounce against the steel surface as you try to sharpen it, the abrasive disc and the back-up plate flex more giving you a better/smoother ground surface.

As far as splinters go for cleaning grills with brushes ...Ya I get it but at 77 years old and still kicking...it may ultimately be "much ado about nothing". I will note however, that over the last 15 years I've switched to cleaning my grill grates with stainless wool pads and that works 10x better than the brass brushes. The stainless wool pads can get into areas that the brushes will never reach.

 

[demographic]

I used to work as a welder and I have used grinders a lot, I despair when I see the Youtube bellends who have removed the guard.
As for types of disc, Klingspor are pretty good and I generally keep a selection of thin (1mm or so) cutting discs (only ever used for cutting as you really shouldnt put a side loading on them) a few thick grinding discs, flap discs in a few abrasive grades and poly abrasive discs for paint/surface rust removal.

If its for workshop use and not carried in a vehicle with limited space I feel that its worth having several grinders each with a different disc as its often handier to just pick up another grinder than swap over discs a lot.

Also I basically never put discs on more than hand tight so hardly ever use the spanner. Having said that with corded tools I ziptie the spanner to the plug end of the cable which encourages me (or others) to unplug the tool before changing discs or with cordless tools I make sure I remove the battery before changing discs.

Its worth looking on the internet for grinder disc injuries cos when they catch in a cut and shatter yer gonna want that guard on.

 

[Packard]

On another note, I highly suggest that if you're grinding steel items, think lawn mower blades, shovels or axes, that using a grinding disc along with a back-up plate is a lot better than using a simple solid abrasive wheel. The solid abrasive wheel tends to bounce against the steel surface as you try to sharpen it, the abrasive disc and the back-up plate flex more giving you a better/smoother ground surface.

As far as splinters go for cleaning grills with brushes ...Ya I get it but at 77 years old and still kicking...it may ultimately be "much ado about nothing". I will note however, that over the last 15 years I've switched to cleaning my grill grates with stainless wool pads and that works 10x better than the brass brushes. The stainless wool pads can get into areas that the brushes will never reach.

The NIH (National Institute of Health), a U.S. government agency, has published a scholarly (read “dull”) article on this subject. Making it to 77 years, is no guarantee that 78 years is attainable. Or to paraphrase, “Past performance is no guarantee of future longevity.”

In any case, here is the link.

Grill Brush Bristle Case Series: Three Unique Presentations of Ingested Foreign Bodies - PMC

Case series Patient: Male, 55 • Female, 61 • Male, 41 Final Diagnosis: Metallic foreign body Symptoms: Abdominal pain Medication: — Clinical Procedure: Diagnostic laparoscopy Specialty: Surgery Unusual clinical course Much of the medical literature ...

pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

And learning from my error in my earlier post, here is a quote from that article:

Conclusions:​

To avoid these injuries, there must be increased awareness among consumers, manufacturers, retailers, and medical professionals to promote prevention, timely diagnosis, and appropriate treatment.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

At Amazon for $150 now.

Food for thought…

I missed this comment the first time. It is absolutely true, plus these types of tools have the axis of rotation perpendicular to the tool. This alone can make fitting it in place easier. I have a pneumatic one, but they are available electric too. None of the pneumatics I have ever used, come anywhere close to the power level of even battery powered electrics. They often bind/stall, because they depend on high speed and momentum. They are also far less capable/adaptable.
You can also get pneumatic versions with 90 degree heads, which will accept smaller flap discs and abrasive pads.
These are both speed-dependent, low torque, and very air-thirsty.

There are basically two types of angle grinders. One that has a slide switch to turn the machine on or off. Technically the switch is spring loaded to make it easier to switch off, but when you are trying to face down a rogue grinder it’s hard to do.

The other type has a paddle switch. Has a latch on the paddle to push to operate the grinder. Let go of the paddle and the grinder stops. Generally considered a bit safer. Some employers only allow the paddle version.

Ron

I have never heard of an employer (or job-site) requiring such a distinction? Maybe a location thing?
For me, it depends on the paddle. I really hate the (safety nancy) version, with the little flip-tab. Those often get defeated or removed, which can be a problem on site. They are pretty strict about that kind of thing.
Somebody I work with had one where the paddle was on top? DeWalt? I'm not sure, but I didn't like it. It's much more intuitive and dexterous to manipulate the switch with your fingers.

The usual applies. Give an idiot a gun/hammer/brush/XYZ and he is sure to make a hole in himself or someone around. Not the fault of the gun/hammer/XYZ though.

Wow, isn't that the truth. Make something "idiot-proof" and the world will breed a better idiot.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

If its for workshop use and not carried in a vehicle with limited space I feel that its worth having several grinders each with a different disc as its often handier to just pick up another grinder than swap over discs a lot.

That is exactly why I have so many routers. It is far easier to swap machines than mess with the tooling itself.

 

[Packard]

That is exactly why I have so many routers. It is far easier to swap machines than mess with the tooling itself.

I have two P-C 690 routers with the bits installed and adjusted for my P-C dovetail jig. To make a dovetail joint, my only setup is to cut the boards to length.

The addition of the 690s, on sale at Lowe’s at $60.00 each a bunch of years ago, has been a big savings in setups time over the years.

 

[Zach0]

I'm a fan of the Makita grinders as well, have a couple corded and cordless.

Diamond cutting discs for steel and stainless are amazing. I'll never use a conventional thin 1/8" disc if I can help it. Milwaukee makes the best I've used, and Lennox is a close second. Added bonus is there is almost zero risk of a disc coming apart. The diamond pays for itself in discs saved, and the diameter stays the same. The diamond is even pretty good for demo work cutting into wood to de-head nails.

 

[demographic]

I bought a secondhand Festool grinder a while ago and have to say that its very nice indeed, quieter than others I've used and the variable speed is actually quite useful.
Wouldn't pay full price for it though, thats a lot of money for a grinder.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

@demographic which one did you get?

 

[smorgasbord]

Diamond cutting discs for steel and stainless are amazing. I'll never use a conventional thin 1/8" disc if I can help it. Milwaukee makes the best I've used, and Lennox is a close second.

Are these the ones you use?

Amazon.com: Milwaukee Electric - 5 INCH Diamond MAX Turbo General Purpose Diamond B : Tools & Home Improvement

Buy Milwaukee Electric - 5 INCH Diamond MAX Turbo General Purpose Diamond B: Diamond Blades - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

or

Amazon.com: Milwaukee Electric - 4 1/2 INCH Diamond MAX Turbo General : Tools & Home Improvement

Buy Milwaukee Electric - 4 1/2 INCH Diamond MAX Turbo General: Diamond Blades - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

4.5" half the price of the 5"

Or:

https://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Tools-1972921-METALMAX-Diamond/dp/B01HSJ1A2M

Or something else entirely?

 

[rvieceli]

@smorgasbord The Milwaukees you listed are for concrete and ceramics the Lennox is for metal

Here is one of the Milwaukee ones for metal

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-4-1-2-in-Steel-Head-Diamond-Cut-Off-Blade-49-93-7805/300920345

Ron

 

[Mini Me]

They often bind/stall, because they depend on high speed and momentum. They are also far less capable/adaptable.
You can also get pneumatic versions with 90 degree heads, which will accept smaller flap discs and abrasive pads.
These are both speed-dependent, low torque, and very air-thirsty.

The problem with the pneumatic version is that a 3/8" airline starves it of air due to the huge amount of air the tool needs and 1/2" airline is rarely seen in workshops. I have abandoned the use of air tools due to convenience, noise and cold hands! I spent a lot of money on a pneumatic system in my workshop, read many thousands of dollars, and it hardly ever gets turned on these days apart from using nail guns.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The problem with the pneumatic version is that a 3/8" airline starves it of air due to the huge amount of air the tool needs and 1/2" airline is rarely seen in workshops. I have abandoned the use of air tools due to convenience, noise and cold hands! I spent a lot of money on a pneumatic system in my workshop, read many thousands of dollars, and it hardly ever gets turned on these days apart from using nail guns.

I'm in a very similar situation in my home shop. I do still have the big 8" geared orbital sanders but have not used them since moving here. The changeover to electric sanders is effectively complete. Nailers/staplers are about all I have left in pneumatic power. Mine is big enough to spray with, but I am trying to minimize that too.
The hoses and probably more importantly, the fittings at the ends, are indeed the worst restrictions. This does impact the really hungry tools quite a bit. However these cheap little cut-off tools are still gutless. I have worked in a couple of places that had superior air systems, but no amount of volume/pressure can overcome the losses through those air motors. They can catch and stall, with plenty of air just bypassing. I have never seen one as good as a decent electric.
They work with centrifugal rotor blades, which lack efficiency. They will spin to high heaven, and if that momentum is enough, all is well. Power, not so much.