KA+ surfacer

roblg3

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2014
Messages
751
I've talked with several people who say you shouldn't use sealer under KA+ clear.  The Sher-Wood rep assures me that using this... IS what makes it the "self seal" system.  I've heard talk of a "surfacer" for KA+ clear, but the rep knows nothing about a "surfacer".  I wonder if this guys on top of it...or has no clue??  This is what i was originally shipped when i ordered my KA+ at a regular retail Sherwin Williams outlet.  I knew right away after spraying it that it was not the durability i was expecting...so, any answers out there?
 

Attachments

  • sealer.jpg
    sealer.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 2,237
With it saying sealer id think you got the undercoat not the topcoat. Look for a SKU number and go on sherwin williams industrial coatings site and figure out which product you've got
 
To the best of my knowledge all of the surfacers are for under pigmented Kem Aqua Plus White.

http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/products/wood/pigmented-wood-primer-surfacers/water/sherwood-kem-aqua-plus-surfacer

The sealer you have will work under KA+. It improves the depth of the wood and warmth of the wood when used under clears.

http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/products/wood/clear-wood-sealers/water/sherwood-kem-aqua-plus-waterborne-sealer

If you plan on using these products on the QSWO you pictured in your other post it appears to be stained. If that is the case lightly sand the stain with 320 or 400 prior to sealing. It will bring out the medullary rays much better. Never sand any other stain except when it is used on QSWO.

One other thing the sealers help block tannins in oak and the high tannin woods.

Tom
 
Tom
It's the recipe you showed me from homestead.  I had to brush the sealer on because of a gun issue that i'll have corrected tomorrow ...I hope.  My plan is to go ahead and sand most of that sealer off and spray another seal coat, then top coat KA+.  It was beautiful seeing the golden fleck when the sun shown on the pieces prior to sealing!  I hope that "glitter" pops back up?  I'm owe you soo much for your help!  Your directions have shown me that i can make a decent finish, which was ALWAYS the worst looking part of everything i did before your tutelage.  My most precious goal is to find some guy who loves this stuff and pass on all the great stuff guys like you have given me.  Your helpfulness is part of your legacy.  [thumbs up]
 
I'm on the bandwagon also. I used it on some drawer boxes. Having a hard time not getting runs but i need to finally break down and do a test panel on the vertical to see how little I can spray and still get proper flow out.
 
duburban said:
I'm on the bandwagon also. I used it on some drawer boxes. Having a hard time not getting runs but i need to finally break down and do a test panel on the vertical to see how little I can spray and still get proper flow out.

Get a wet mill gauge. Max before KA+ begins to run is 4 wet mills, the surfacer is 8 wet mills. After  some practice you'll learn to "see" the thickness. There is a very slight clouding that occurs as you exceed the max thickness.

Anything less than 2.5 mills will not flow out properly

Tom
 
A wet mil has been on my list for … 7 years? I'll put one in the Amazon shopping cart finally. I think a trial and error with a vertical sheet of ply might be just the ticket for getting the feel.
 
duburban said:
A wet mil has been on my list for … 7 years? I'll put one in the Amazon shopping cart finally. I think a trial and error with a vertical sheet of ply might be just the ticket for getting the feel.

Go to your Sherwin Williams dealer, they should give you a few wet mill gauges. If not PM me your address and I'll send you one, I make my rep give me the gauges so I can send them to those who need them.

Tom
 
[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]
Tom
Very interesting..do you have a picture of these wet mill gauges and is there a chart as to what coatings correspond to the different mil thicknesses?
 
Cheese said:
[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]
Tom
Very interesting..do you have a picture of these wet mill gauges and is there a chart as to what coatings correspond to the different mil thicknesses?

This is a video I defiantly need to redo. You can also look at the teeth on the gauge, the thickness is between the last one with coating on it and the first one without.



For the recommended film thickness check the TDS/MDS for the product you're using.

If you want to buy (or I'll send you one) a gauge go to the Mohawk site and order one of theirs, much cheeper than Amazon.

Tom
 
Back
Top