Kapex 60

Thank you David for a very informative look at the new K60.
Im happy to see you like it.
I have the K120 and have the problem that the casting is not very good.
So could you please put your Straight edge on the horizontal and Vertical working surface and show how flat/square the surfaces are and also if they are 90° to each other.
Thanks
all the best
Pip
 
I would guess Festool might have plans to implement NFC at some point with the saw.  Maybe that's what the curved line things you were on about are?
 
Thanks for this good review.

What you think of dust collection so far?
This is very important for me and can't wait till next week and part 2

Vesa
 
Thanks Vesa. The dust collection is not as good as the Kapex 120 but non the less, pretty good.
 
Much enjoyed your video (as always) David; thank you.

Did you get to try trenching with the Kapex 60? I believe it has a specific trenching setting, similiar to (or the same as) the larger model.

I recall that some KS120 users found the restrictions on height - and width (front-to-back) of workpiece once one has brought the piece forward so that the the blade can cut make the cuts full depth all the way across - were things to be borne in mind. So I wondered if you had a chance to try that with the 60 and what your findings were.

(And what did Barry think of it?)

EDIT:
Just watched again and I think you actually covered much of that in your general comments on cutting capacity - but if you do have an other specific thoughts, I'd be interested!

Thanks again, David.
 
Enjoyed the review so far, I like the feature that removes the indents from the turn table.
 
As far as I'm concerned professional Carpenter doesn't need lasers and shadow lines.if you can't cut to a pencil mark theirs a problem.
 
Well I can't imagine that anyone can't cut to a pencil line. A laser to shadow however means that you have two hands free to move the material. Imagine you have something like a 6x4 that is 2.4m long. That's not very easy to move about on the saw. If you have to bring the blade down to line up the cut then that only leaves one free hand to try and move the timber into the right place.

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alice said:
As far as I'm concerned professional Carpenter doesn't need lasers and shadow lines.if you can't cut to a pencil mark theirs a problem.

I've spent most of my working life using saws without light or laser guides, so sure. But when you're beveling on both axis in one cut it can be tricky and time consuming without a laser/light guide - in fact i remember my joy the first time i made such a cut with a laser equipped  saw!
 
I see the light as a double bonus. It gives great illumination to the area you are cutting as well as the shadow created by the blade to help align the item you are cutting. Pretty simple and good for people with eyesight that isn't as it was 20 years ago.
 
I found the shadow to be invisible when using the saw outside and i also found that I had to bring the blade down to meet the material for it to become visible. would you argue that this is not the case? Pehaps I may have had a faulty unit then as my experence seems to differ drastically with yours?
 
where are you dave?? Always quick to shove all the positive aspects down our throats but you dont dare upset festool by giving us an honest evaluation.
 
slimm said:
where are you dave?? Always quick to shove all the positive aspects down our throats but you dont dare upset festool by giving us an honest evaluation.
Hi Slimm. I have never used the 60 outside, only inside. But I would agree that the sun is more powerful than an LED. I think that you will see in the video that I lowered the blade toward the surface of the timber to get a definition of the edge of the blade's teeth.
Is the saw pretty much as I said it was and performing well for you?
 
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