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Here is a link to the supplemental manual: http://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/Kapex_KS120.pdf
Peter Halle
Peter Halle
kapex accuracy/adjustment
- Thread starter Caly
- Start date
Since he mentioned about it, I'm under the impression SnowOwl already has the supplemental manual.
Tuning the Kapex or for that matter, any woodworking machine like the jointer or table saw, is a time-consuming undertaking, and often the desired result is not obtained after hours of work. I think the tuning and calibration process for the bevel cuts would still be frustrating with the help of the manual.
Some 6 years ago, it took me lots of scrap to get the miter scale dead-on for 90* and miter angles. At least, I was lucky that its bevel cuts were accurate. As I said before, many Festool machines may be tuned to spec. (within tolerance), but not necessarily to a user's expectation, based on my experience with the Kapex and TS75.
However, both the DF500 and SawStop were factory calibrated to the highest standards I've known. That's how premium tools and machines should be produced and delivered to a consumer in the first place.
Tuning the Kapex or for that matter, any woodworking machine like the jointer or table saw, is a time-consuming undertaking, and often the desired result is not obtained after hours of work. I think the tuning and calibration process for the bevel cuts would still be frustrating with the help of the manual.
Some 6 years ago, it took me lots of scrap to get the miter scale dead-on for 90* and miter angles. At least, I was lucky that its bevel cuts were accurate. As I said before, many Festool machines may be tuned to spec. (within tolerance), but not necessarily to a user's expectation, based on my experience with the Kapex and TS75.
However, both the DF500 and SawStop were factory calibrated to the highest standards I've known. That's how premium tools and machines should be produced and delivered to a consumer in the first place.
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Dr. P. Venkman
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Ha! I’ve got a giant pile of scrap an awful lot like that to clean up right now after spending last night and today calibrating my brand new kapex.
Given all the shattered styrofoam in the box, mine must have taken at least one pretty good tumble during shipping. I knew when I saw that that I was probably in for a bit of calibration.
I was actually surprised that both the miter gauge and the bevel still came within the factory tolerances (barely). I thought I could do better, though.
The miter gauge was pretty easy, but the bevel adjustment was a royal pain.
Tip for anyone trying to calibrate the bevel (that I figured out way too late): there is a point at the bottom of the bevel mechanism where it meets the base (the bevel mechanism moves and the base stays still). Draw a line with a pencil across that joint, and you’ll find it much easier to know how much you’re adjusting it. It’s still a pain, but the line helped me a ton.
Given all the shattered styrofoam in the box, mine must have taken at least one pretty good tumble during shipping. I knew when I saw that that I was probably in for a bit of calibration.
I was actually surprised that both the miter gauge and the bevel still came within the factory tolerances (barely). I thought I could do better, though.
The miter gauge was pretty easy, but the bevel adjustment was a royal pain.
Tip for anyone trying to calibrate the bevel (that I figured out way too late): there is a point at the bottom of the bevel mechanism where it meets the base (the bevel mechanism moves and the base stays still). Draw a line with a pencil across that joint, and you’ll find it much easier to know how much you’re adjusting it. It’s still a pain, but the line helped me a ton.
pettyconstruction
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I have a Wexley digital angle thingy that helped me.
I used it for the bevel on the Kapex and my Saw Stop JSS.
I’m not sure,but I think it saved me some time , and scrap wood.
YMMV Charlie
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
I used it for the bevel on the Kapex and my Saw Stop JSS.
I’m not sure,but I think it saved me some time , and scrap wood.
YMMV Charlie
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Thomas Aronsson
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Inspired by Peter Parfitts fantastic youtube channel I have now bought my kapex 120. To my dissapointment it do not cut square in the vertikal plane. After much testing I foundation out i is because the central rounded, moveable part of the sawtable is aprox. 0,6 mm lower. With a streightedge the sawtable is not coplanar.
I have not found information how to adjust this problem in the manuals refered to here.
With my digital Waxley angel-meter the blade is in perfect 90-degree
I have not found information how to adjust this problem in the manuals refered to here.
With my digital Waxley angel-meter the blade is in perfect 90-degree
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Thomas Aronsson
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ChuckM said:
Yes I know it is not a ”real” Straightedge, but I have checked it before the picture and it is perfectly straight. By making a new insert ( where the blad goes into the sawtable) so that the the workpiece lifted 1.1mm, I got perfectly square cut.
However, I would like to raise the round part of the sawtable instead, and make the insert flush
FestitaMakool
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Judging only, by what you say, and what can be seen in the photo, it looks if the saw has been dropped straight down. Severely.
How was the box when you received it? The styrofoam?
I would check with the dealer and Festool as it’s brand new?
There’s nothing new to transport damage.. who’s got the risk is often a discussion. Usually the dealer steps up, at least here.
My dealer here in Scandinavia prepared a return shipment for me when I experienced my severely damaged box with my table saw. In the end I decided to adjust and check myself with the dealers approval. I ended up reporting that the saw was ok after thorough adjustment.
If the bed is bent, I would send it in.
How was the box when you received it? The styrofoam?
I would check with the dealer and Festool as it’s brand new?
There’s nothing new to transport damage.. who’s got the risk is often a discussion. Usually the dealer steps up, at least here.
My dealer here in Scandinavia prepared a return shipment for me when I experienced my severely damaged box with my table saw. In the end I decided to adjust and check myself with the dealers approval. I ended up reporting that the saw was ok after thorough adjustment.
If the bed is bent, I would send it in.
Thomas Aronsson
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I contacted Festool Sweden. They told me to send it in. I have now got it back adjusted so it makes perfect cuts. It took a few weeks due to pandemic delayed spareparts.
NO costs at all, no discussion. Only Nice and good personal contacts.
I am a very Happy Festool owner [big grin]
NO costs at all, no discussion. Only Nice and good personal contacts.
I am a very Happy Festool owner [big grin]
I posted this in a different thread, but it's relevant here as well. I recently bought and returned two Kapex 120 saws with manufacture date 02-2021 because the center table was significantly proud (approximately 1/32", apologies to our metric members) relative to the side tables (the side tables, not the extensions, which were not at all co-planar with their respective side tables). Both boxes were in physically good condition, so it's unlikely that shipping damage could be responsible for the problems.
As far as I know, there is no user adjustment for the center table height. I'm sure it can be set/adjusted by Festool, but I don't think a brand-new saw should require a (lengthy) return trip to Festool to correct that issue before it's ever been used and where there is no evidence of any shipping damage.
As a personal opinion freebie, I think this class of tool (sliding compound miter saws) is particularly challenging. There is no saw of this type that doesn't require us to accept one or more compromises, some of which are fairly serious. For example, plastic (!!!) detent parts in some Bosch saws, and aluminum detent parts in some Makita saws. Dust collection that is merely theoretical in many saws. Liberal amounts of blade deflection at the farther end of the saw head's travel. The Kapex is at the very high end of all the issues that these saws present, both in terms of design and manufacturing, but it is not perfect.
As far as I know, there is no user adjustment for the center table height. I'm sure it can be set/adjusted by Festool, but I don't think a brand-new saw should require a (lengthy) return trip to Festool to correct that issue before it's ever been used and where there is no evidence of any shipping damage.
As a personal opinion freebie, I think this class of tool (sliding compound miter saws) is particularly challenging. There is no saw of this type that doesn't require us to accept one or more compromises, some of which are fairly serious. For example, plastic (!!!) detent parts in some Bosch saws, and aluminum detent parts in some Makita saws. Dust collection that is merely theoretical in many saws. Liberal amounts of blade deflection at the farther end of the saw head's travel. The Kapex is at the very high end of all the issues that these saws present, both in terms of design and manufacturing, but it is not perfect.
ChuckS said:
Caly may not, but I do...
And I must say, I agree with the critique of Festool's design. It's quite frustrating to get the saw close and have to "hunt and peck" to make the final bit of the adjustment when a simple adjusting screw seems like it would make it easy for you move the saw mitre arm the last little bit.
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