Kapex Adjustment Tip

sancho57

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Jan 13, 2011
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Ive been fooling around trying to die in my Kapex. I was getting good cuts but not as square as Id like. But then Im checking square with a Woodpeckers 1281 square.

Using the 5 cut method I got close, but not close enough for me.

So I went to my resources, Called Tom But hes busy working making a living. He text me and said he'd get back to me tonight. But I didnt want to bother him he works long hours so let him relax in the evening.

So next i called Don at Anderson plywood. He mentioned to take straight edge and check the fence. The fence can go out of square bc of a kick back, which i had a few.

Then I dawned on me Alan told me the same thing. Which I did check and it looked good.

This time I decided to lossen all for bolts that hold the fence in plave use a 36" woodpeckers straightedge  and put pressure on the fence to bring it in line with the straight edge.

It did move a little which means it was out of square. But honestly not enough that could be seen by my eye when i checked the first time.

So there is a method to tight the 4 bolts first tight the outside bolt, then the inside (closest to the blade) next.

So then I checked with the 5 cut methid and it was out. But then when i loosened the 3 bolts on the scale and adjusted them. It came out awesome adjusted.

So after all this babbling what I saying is when adjusting the Kapex, Adjust the fence using a good straight edge first.

 
It's been a long time since I calibrated my kapex, I only do this when I run into accuracy issues (if it ain't broke...)

But when I did, I did notice that at a certain point calibrating using the 5 cut method, doing the same test from the other side of the blade would get worse when making further adjustments, so at that point I rolled back the last adjustment... (I decided the vallue was already low enough).  (So next time when I feel a calibration is needed, I will get myself a precision straightedge first to get it even better)

(Luckily I haven't experienced any kickbacks (yet) when using my kapex)
 
it amazed me that something simple like a kick back would throw the fence off. Also how little off the fence was would throw the cuts off even more.
 
[member=10147]jobsworth[/member]
jobsworth said:
it amazed me that something simple like a kick back would throw the fence off. Also how little off the fence was would throw the cuts off even more.

Do you recall how that kick back happen? Was it because the stock was not tight against the fence? If so, the fence took the hit and voila!

I haven't experience any kick back with my Kapex since I read all the complaints and baby sit the saw  [embarassed]

Thanks for the tip.  [thumbs up]
 
I’ve had kickback with a number of mitre saws including the Kapex but, it’s always been my fault when in a rush, and not clamping properly, or the stock isn’t tight against the fence.
Adding a kerf insert helps, adding a fence insert as well as the kerf, virtually eliminates kickback if the fences are adjusted properly. Plus the cuts are much cleaner.
 
[member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member]

The actual cause I dont really remember. Like jiggy said it happens when Im in a hurry to and not paying attention. Since I slowed down even with a lot of cuts and make sure I clamp and hold the material against the fence and slowed down my rate of speed and cut like a sliding compound miter saw and not a chop saw, I havent had any kick back.... yet.
 
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