Kapex and a track and stop system

[Dave on the Mount]

Hi there. I'm going to get a Kapex 120, replacing a Makita 1013 that I've had for a number of years. I have my mitre saw set up in a recessed area of my shop cabinets so that the saw base is level with the cabinet countertops. I would like to add left and right wings to the side of the kapex that allows stops to be used. Something like the Kreg precision tack and stop system. I can't see any way to attach such a system to the Kapex without adding a sacrificial fence to the saw; thereby, losing some cutting depth. I'm sure that I'm not the only person who has ever wanted this capacity with on a Kapex, that basically stays stationary in my shop, and I was wonder what you other Foggers might have devised. Any suggestions would be appreciated. [smile]

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Dave

I am just debating how to proceed with my own Kapex fence and stop system. I have not made my mind up yet what I will buy and I may even make something from scratch which has worked well in the past.

You say that you are concerned about having to have a sacrificial part of the fence in order to get the full range of cut lengths. This is not the case if you use an offset system.

[attachimg=1]

This is the fence removed from the Kapex mitre station. The long nose of the wooden stop slides all the way up to the blade.

Peter

 

[Dave on the Mount]

Hi Peter. Thanks for the reply. I'm not quite sure what you are showing me there. The long fence like piece of metal. Is that an accessory piece for the Kapex? I know that the saw has grooved channels on each side to hold crown moulding stops. Does it fit in there? I have seen nothing like that in the catalogue other than the extension wings which are too expensive for my purposes and would also raise the saw bed above my countertop. Please explain for the ignorant. Thanks. Dave

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Dave,

My apologies - it is my old home made fence and stop. The aluminium fence was fixed at one end to the channel in the Crown extension wing and there was a small bolt, about half way along, to keep it in place.

The wooden sled could be screwed tight at any point along the aluminium fence. The long wooden nose piece was sufficient to go all the way to the Kapex blade so very short lengths could be cut.

The original picture shows the fence and stop out of its normal place.

Here is another picture of it in the old setup.

[attachimg=1]

Peter

 

[Dave on the Mount]

Hi Peter; Again, thanks for the information. It looks like that if I get he crown stop base extension with the saw I should be able to secure the Kreg jig to the saw with it. I notice your fence has a unique rob/ knob holder to secure your fence to the extension wing. Where did you get it or did you adapt it yourself from some different parts? Again, thanks for the help.
Dave

 

[Peter Durand]

Hi there. I'm going to get a Kapex 120, replacing a Makita 1013 that I've had for a number of years. I have my mitre saw set up in a recessed area of my shop cabinets so that the saw base is level with the cabinet countertops. I would like to add left and right wings to the side of the kapex that allows stops to be used. Something like the Kreg precision tack and stop system. I can't see any way to attach such a system to the Kapex without adding a sacrificial fence to the saw; thereby, losing some cutting depth. I'm sure that I'm not the only person who has ever wanted this capacity with on a Kapex, that basically stays stationary in my shop, and I was wonder what you other Foggers might have devised. Any suggestions would be appreciated. [smile]

Have looked into the FastCap system? http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/Best-Fence-V2-for-Kapex-Stand-p44675.htm

There is a good video review:



Cheers,

Peter

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Peter; Again, thanks for the information. It looks like that if I get he crown stop base extension with the saw I should be able to secure the Kreg jig to the saw with it. I notice your fence has a unique rob/ knob holder to secure your fence to the extension wing. Where did you get it or did you adapt it yourself from some different parts? Again, thanks for the help.
Dave

Hi Dave

It was very easy to make. I had a brass nut (6 or 8 mm) and soldered it to a rectangular flat piece of brass with a clearance hole in the middle. I already had the Bristol locking lever and some threaded rod (same 6 or 8 mm thread). The flat brass with the nut fit into the clamp "T" of the Crown Extension. The Bristol locking lever and rod go through holes drilled in the aluminium fence.

It was terribly easy to make, cost almost nothing and worked brilliantly.

The old Kapex Mitre Station, with the fence, have now gone to a new home. I hope to buy or make something equally as effective for the new mitre station.

Peter

 

[Dave on the Mount]

Thanks, Peter. you've been very helpful. I'll give it a try when I get the saw.
Regards,
Dave