Kapex capacity

[HandyDen]

Hello all,

I’m in the market for a miter saw, and I’m leaning towards the Kapex for various reasons. But I’m concerned that the 4-3/4” vertical capacity will be too limiting (I frequently install base 5-1/2+”).  If you lay tall stock flat and tip the saw, does it cut just as accurately?  I’ve had other saws that just aren’t as accurate when bevel cutting.  Does anyone cut tall stock this way on their Kapex?  If not, then I’ll be buying the 18v 12” Milwaukee instead.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Keep in mind that the most important regarding cut accuracy reside into the blade.

When it comes to bevel angle, the next most important is how rigid/stiff is the saw. From all the reviews I saw before acquiring the Kapex 120, is that it is the most rigid. Another thing to take into consideration about a miter saw accuracy is the saw vibration. I am simply amazed by how clean is that cut, no saw blade mark at all.

I have the 120v 12" Milwaukee, perfect for ruff cut. I will never use it for final dimension.

 

[ProCarpenterRVA]

I almost never cut trim standing it up against the fence. It is so much more stable and easier to control when it's laying on the table of the saw. The only thing that the Kapex falls short on is the ability to cut wide shelving, really. The bevel setting on the Kapex is a dream, easy to use and change on the fly. Give it a try, you'll find out if you want to keep it soon enough [emoji6]

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[HandyDen]

Thanks for the replies!

So, if you make two cuts of stock laying flat, one 45 bevel to the right and one to the left, those pieces will make a perfect 90 miter that is coplanar? I could never do that with any other miter saw (DeWalt, Rigid, Milwaukee) because the saw seemed to deflect too much.  If the Kapex can do that, I think that’s my next purchase.

 

[Mario Turcot]

I'd say, give it a try and if the result is not good enough for you, return it.

 

[jshippy90@gmail.com]

Just my two cents I am a professional trim carpenter and cabinet maker and I cut large base trim flat on my Kapex it is spot on best saw I have ever owned plus 30 day money back guaranteed

 

[blues]

Close your eyes and get the makita 10" or 12" lxt miter saw.  Light years ahead. It really is that good. Please read the spec. Dust collection is pretty good. Calibration is spot on out of the box. Very easy to check and correct if you need to. I have cut 5 1/4" base board standing up on a 10" saw as it has a tall fence. It's a beautiful design. You can set up the saw against the wall. Highly recommend. Festool makes many good tools. Kapex is a known problem tool. Do your research.

 

[threesixright]

Kapex is a known problem tool. Do your research.

Here we go again....

 

[peter halle]

If you are going to cut trim / molding that you need to lay flat on the table and then bevel the blade, you should give the Kapex a spin.  You can be accurate down to about .25 of a degree based on your eyesight.  Try it for 30 days in your own situation.

Keep your blades clean and sharp and cut away.

Peter

 

[RKA]

You will have to take the time to dial in the saw right out of the box.  Some have them set up well, some don’t.  But that’s the case with all saws.  Once it’s dialed in it should stay that way and you will get the cut quality and consistency you want.

I started off wanting to cut upright on the fence.  It’s more efficient to swing the miter adjustment back and forth and the larger scale is helpful when dialing in small adjustment so the trim fits the corner.  I remember debating this while
Peter Halle was demoing the Kapex features for me many years ago.  I was very concerned about the vertical capacity.  But, despite some loss in efficiency doing the bevel adjustments, it’s easier dealing with long trim boards on the flat and the saw head is more rigid than the 12” saw that preceded it.  Cutting crown or baseboard, it’s a dream to use.  The difference is like a scalpel vs. a butchers knife.  I’m just a DIY guy, so maximizing efficiency isn’t part of the equation, but having tools I don’t have to fuss with is important to me.  You do need to keep your sliding motions consistent, but that’s true with most saws.  If you put sideways force on the saw head, it will deflect.  But if you’re mindful of how you slide the head, it will deliver.

 

[peter halle]

You will have to take the time to dial in the saw right out of the box.  Some have them set up well, some don’t.  But that’s the case with all saws.  Once it’s dialed in it should stay that way and you will get the cut quality and consistency you want.

I started off wanting to cut upright on the fence.  It’s more efficient to swing the miter adjustment back and forth and the larger scale is helpful when dialing in small adjustment so the trim fits the corner.  I remember debating this while
Peter Halle was demoing the Kapex features for me many years ago.  I was very concerned about the vertical capacity.  But, despite some loss in efficiency doing the bevel adjustments, it’s easier dealing with long trim boards on the flat and the saw head is more rigid than the 12” saw that preceded it.  Cutting crown or baseboard, it’s a dream to use.  The difference is like a scalpel vs. a butchers knife.  I’m just a DIY guy, so maximizing efficiency isn’t part of the equation, but having tools I don’t have to fuss with is important to me.  You do need to keep your sliding motions consistent, but that’s true with most saws.  If you put sideways force on the saw head, it will deflect.  But if you’re mindful of how you slide the head, it will deliver.

WOW!  Many years ago, a great trip. wonderful people to meet, some sadness later on (Kate).  More than one way to skin a potato.

Thank you [member=21249]RKA[/member] for remembering on so many counts.

Peter

 

[HandyDen]

Just my two cents I am a professional trim carpenter and cabinet maker and I cut large base trim flat on my Kapex it is spot on best saw I have ever owned plus 30 day money back guaranteed

Your “two cents” may just save me $100’s.  Thanks everyone for your input. I feel confident that the Kapex will fit my needs.

 

[RKA]

Just to muddy the waters a bit, there is truth to Blues comment above about the Makita.  Once you tweak the rails into correct alignment (outlined somewhere on this forum) to correct for an assembly issue, it’s also a good saw.  The only con is it’s a little heavy, so if you’re moving the saw from site to site, you’ll find the Kapex is more manageable.

 

[blues]

Just to muddy the waters a bit, there is truth to Blues comment above about the Makita.

@ Raj.. thanks.

Here are some additional thoughts:
I love festool and i feel their platform is just superb. But lets acknowledge that there are some bad apples in the bag! So if the emperor is not wearing clothes, let's call it out! These are premium tools and as an investor in these tools i expect it to work.
Talk to anyone who has had issues (motor failure) and the pain associated with it. No one will disagree about the ergonomics of the tool. And with any cutting tool its the blade that makes the cut. Within 30 days all you can experience is the 'usability' of the tool. Its the motor that fails often. Most likely 1 day after your warranty ends . Why cant festool offer a 7yr warranty  for their Kapex to restore confidence. To be fair not all Kapex fails, but its the stats that is a cause for concern.
I have not looked back after my Makita lxt for half the price and its cordless too with better usability. Thats my 2 cents..