Kapex,Did you know?

mastercabman

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Apr 15, 2007
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I am sure that most of you who has a Kapex knows this,but when puting the saw in the "special cutting" setting,you can increase the capacity of cutting.Not just for crown molding,but anything that is 3/4" thick.The head of the saw travel further down in that position.
A few weeks ago i had someone helping me doing a job and he used my tools since it was set up allready.
When he went to cut some toe kick cover,he wanted to do a miter cut,and the toe kick was 4.5"H.
So he asked how to set up the saw so that he could cut it flat.I went to the saw and put it in the special cutting position.
I then told him to go head now it's ready.In that position you can cut up to 4.75" X 3/4".(well at least that's what it says in the book)For crown molding you can cut 6 5/8"(nested against the fence)
Not bad for a 10" saw.Try that with a 12" saw!
 
Yea I know.   Still don't ever use the special feature as I prefer cutting skirting (toe kick) laying flat.  As most Walls are not square and often your skirting has a small kick cus the wall has to much plaster at the bottom all this makes it very very difficult to cut skirting standing up because you have to adjust both bevels so doing a compound cut which is difficult  to judge while it's standing up.  

I have spoken to many joiners who cut skirting standing up and I ask them how can they possibly get a perfect joint. They say they just cut it at 45 and filler will do the rest but 2 things wrong with that!  One that's crap! Two there is hardly any glue surface as the joint aint touching all over.  

Am I missing something? Cus I have tried standing up and it's so much hassle to get your joint prefect where no sanding or filler is needed.  Cus it's easier to adjust the bed of the saw than the head of the saw. Oh I don't know lol

Jmb
 
jmbfestool said:
Yea I know.   Still don't ever use the special feature as I prefer cutting skirting (toe kick) laying flat.  As most Walls are not square and often your skirting has a small kick cus the wall has to much plaster at the bottom all this makes it very very difficult to cut skirting standing up because you have to adjust both bevels so doing a compound cut which is difficult  to judge while it's standing up.  

I have spoken to many joiners who cut skirting standing up and I ask them how can they possibly get a perfect joint. They say they just cut it at 45 and filler will do the rest but 2 things wrong with that!  One that's crap! Two there is hardly any glue surface as the joint aint touching all over.  

Am I missing something? Cus I have tried standing up and it's so much hassle to get your joint prefect where no sanding or filler is needed.  Cus it's easier to adjust the bed of the saw than the head of the saw. Oh I don't know lol

Jmb

You hack some of the plaster off with a old chisel  [big grin]

John..
 
Jmb why would you  use a compond mitre on scirting? if the wall is kicking out at the bottom because of rubish plastering its the plaster that needs choping off
no good fitting wonky scirting.it need to be vertical lol

And I am assuming you are talking external corners
 
neth27 said:
jmbfestool said:
Yea I know.   Still don't ever use the special feature as I prefer cutting skirting (toe kick) laying flat.  As most Walls are not square and often your skirting has a small kick cus the wall has to much plaster at the bottom all this makes it very very difficult to cut skirting standing up because you have to adjust both bevels so doing a compound cut which is difficult  to judge while it's standing up.  

I have spoken to many joiners who cut skirting standing up and I ask them how can they possibly get a perfect joint. They say they just cut it at 45 and filler will do the rest but 2 things wrong with that!  One that's crap! Two there is hardly any glue surface as the joint aint touching all over.  

Am I missing something? Cus I have tried standing up and it's so much hassle to get your joint prefect where no sanding or filler is needed.  Cus it's easier to adjust the bed of the saw than the head of the saw. Oh I don't know lol

Jmb

You hack some of the plaster off with a old chisel  [big grin]

John..

I do but der is only so much you can do like I said just seems more hassle standing up!  Oaky what about when the floor is out of level and/or the wall so you cnt cut the skirting square down just seems awkward standing up skirting.  I'll stick with laying it down quicker and easier. Lol

Jmb
 
Festoolfootstool said:
Jmb why would you  use a compond mitre on scirting? if the wall is kicking out at the bottom because of rubish plastering its the plaster that needs choping off
no good fitting wonky scirting.it need to be vertical lol

And I am assuming you are talking external corners

Im properly taking this topic of topic.  

Yeah external corners.  I was just giving that as a example if the floor ain't level that will create the same problem.  Also you can't chisel the wall dead verticall unless you want to make it a day job to do that. At extreme cases I have used a plainer on the back of the skirting because the Walls where so bad.  

Also some Walls when you chisel the plaster it falls of in lumps like if it's been wet plastered so you end up needing the fill it in again all because you stand skirting up if you can simply just  lay it down and do a compound mitre I'm only talking like 1mm 2mm tops who's going to see skirting being 2mm out of vertical?  

But you will see a 1 or 2 mm gap in the joint.

Jmb
 
I nearly always cut skirting with it laid  down flat, the only reason is most of the skirting i fit is over 5" so have no choice.

John..
 
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