Kapex en Route! - What to look out for?

[WelshWood]

Hey guys,

So after ALOT of thinking I've decided to buy the Kapex 120UG set, got ALOT of Oak Trim carpentry coming up, so thought I may as well upgrade as my old bosch mitre saw has taken a beating!

After reading a couple of topics recently, I was quite sceptical about buying one, but thought the trial period is there for a reason, so why not?

My question is, straight out of the box, what 'problems' should I be looking for?

The most obvious one which has been mentioned numerous times is the table not being perfectly flat, so i'm eagerly waiting so put my feeler gauges to use..

Can anyone else put some issues my way I should be wary of?

Many thanks,

~WW

 

[ear3]

-Table flatness: check that the left and right wings are coplanar with the swivel portion, not just at 0/90 degrees but also on mitre cuts

-bevel cut deflection: when I first got my saw there was deflection of around 1/16" on 45 degree bevel cuts on the left side due to the weight of the saw

-fence alignment: make sure it's straight all the way through and dead 90 to the table

 

[Doug S]

When mine came it needed the mitre gauge adjusting because it was way off, also the lasers needed adjustment (although I don't use them).

I have heard there is an allen key hidden in the packaging somewhere, don't throw it out like most people do, including me!

Despite all the bad stuff you hear about the Kapex it is a fantastic saw, especially when paired with the ug cart and wings.

Doug

 

[DB10]

I have heard there is an allen key hidden in the packaging somewhere, don't throw it out like most people do, including me!

Doug

I was aware of this small Allen key hidden away somewhere in the Packaging, but I searched everywhere and couldn't find it when I got mine, maybe they use to supply one but don't anymore.

 

[peter halle]

Check to see if the entire base is flat.  Find the elusive allen key in case you want to calibrate the lasers.  Then throw your cell phone,your tablets, and your computer into the laundry hamper and start using your saw without the background buzz in your ears or head.  When cutting make sure that the blade is up to full speed before you cut.

A couple of hours later - go do the wash.

Peter

 

[Nat X]

It's not a special hex key if you lose it/don't get one. I use a Wera to adjust mine--I *think* it's 2.5mm.

I have nothing but sympathy for those experiencing issues, but mine's been doing just fine for nearly two years. I'm a total amateur but I do tend to make hundreds upon hundreds of repetitive cuts for hours at a time all the same. 

 

[Corwin]

Check the fence carefully. I returned the one I ordered because its fence was warped. Make sure yours is straight across the left and right halves, and that each side sits 90 degrees to the table.

 

[Birdhunter]

My Allen wrench was stuck in the foam packing. I'm glad I found it as I had to adjust the lasers. Read the supplemental manual. It's excellent. Unfortunately, you have to poke a hole in the laser covers to do the adjustment.

Zero clearance inserts are good if you don't do a lot of bevel cutting.

Letting the blade come to a complete stop before lifting the saw's head will greatly reduce kick backs.

A sacrificial fence is helpful. The supplemental manual shows how to make one.

The wider diameter short vac hose enhances dust collection. Let the vac run a few seconds before starting the cut. This also enhances dust collection. The dust collection isn't perfect and varies with the type of cut. At best, I'd rate it 90 percent.

My Kapex was perfectly adjusted out of the box and has stayed that way for several years. I make a few test cuts before I start a project using the Kapex. It's never been anything but dead on.

The Kapex has been a popular target but I have found it to be reliable and very accurate. It's also the only miter saw I've been able to use inside.

 

[GarryMartin]

Unfortunately, you have to poke a hole in the laser covers to do the adjustment.

You can lift the adhesive label, adjust the lasers, and re-apply it if you are careful. If not, and the holes upset your OCD, then the labels are available as spare parts for pocket change.

The wider diameter short vac hose enhances dust collection. Let the vac run a few seconds before starting the cut. This also enhances dust collection. The dust collection isn't perfect and varies with the type of cut. At best, I'd rate it 90 percent.

Also make sure that you are pulling the head forward, then dropping it, and then sliding it into the wood. Don't use it like a chopsaw or the dust collection and quality of cut will suffer.

The Kapex has been a popular target but I have found it to be reliable and very accurate. It's also the only miter saw I've been able to use inside.

100% agree. It's also the only saw my wife has *allowed* me to use inside...  [wink]

 

[Ajax]

Love my Kapex but watch out for small cutoffs to be ejected at high speed.  This happens more on my Kapex than on my cheap Craftsman saw.  I think it has to do with the teeth on the blade.

Also be sure to have enough clearance on the sliding back fence when you rotate the blade (miter) from 90 degrees.  I often forget that when I have the zero clearance inserts on the back fence.