Kapex Heeling?

[viper2pt0]

Hey all, my AMAZING wife recently surprised me with a Kapex.  I'm not in the business, just a handyman fixing up our first house.  Needless to say I'm elated and love the saw.  I had used it to cut some smaller pieces for window stool mouldings I'm making, and just tonight used it to cut some 1x8 poplar to make wings for the saw, similar to Dave Reinholds.  I'll be adding some Kreg top track, and stops to the wings as well.  Long story short, I was cutting the poplar flat (obviously), using the clamp that came with the saw.  I noticed on my cuts that once the entire blade entered the wood (pull all the way out, start the saw, plunge down, then begin pushing through the cut) the part of the cut closest to me, was burning fairly badly, and it was pretty easy to feel that the blade was binding.  I thought it was a weird thing, so I checked to make sure the wood didn't move, and it hadnt.  This occured on all 4 cuts I had to make.  Any ideas?  The blade is new, and I have barely any cuts on the saw.  I've downloaded and checked the supplemental manual, but I dont see any adjustments on the saw for tracking / heeling.  Help!

I appreciate any advice.

 

[hockey_magnet]

I'm sure you'll get a better response but my Kapex has never done that. I would check the blade very carefully, remove it and make sure it is flat and sharp. Even though it's new there could be a problem. Make sure the blade is reinstalled securely. There is no adjustment I am aware of for "tracking" . Was the cut on 90 degrees? Was the speed control set fairly high which it should be for that type of wood? I highly recommend you download the Kapex Supplemental Manual from the Festool USA site. Finally, just call Festool support.

Chris

 

[viper2pt0]

Yes, the cut was at 90 degrees, and at full speed.  I had already checked the supplemental manual and did not see anything.  I have not tried removing and re-installing the blade.  I'll give that a shot.  Any other ideas while I try that?

 

[peter halle]

You might want to check to make sure that although the saw has stopped in an indent position that you have locked the handle down like this:

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Peter

 

[viper2pt0]

Made sure the miter was locked, removed and reinstalled blade...still happening!  [sad]

 

[duburban]

does the saw make a perfect square cut ?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Is it fair to say that the saw was cutting fine before? Sounds like you were making good cuts before. Anything specific that changed between good cuts and not-so-good cuts?

 

[djwong]

Are you waiting for the saw to come to speed before plunging?

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Viper 2.0,

It could be crappy wood (as JMB would say).  The quality of the poplar might be the issue you're experiencing, causing it to distort when cut (crook).  Try with some totally different material, preferably a piece of MDF that is a man-made product, to eliminate the poplar as the likely culprit.

Also, where are you located?  You might be able to get some first-hand insight from someone on this forum - always better than over the internet or by phone.

Maybe it's the  way you're clamping the wood?  Maybe it's your technique?  Maybe IT IS the Kapex?  Who knows?  You could also try cutting the same poplar on a different saw and compare.

 

[TomGadwa1]

Sounds like the blade is being pinched by the material. Your wood may be warped in such a way that it is not setting flat on the table of the KAPEX. You might try flipping the material over to see if it cuts better. Is the burning all over the cut? Is it only on one side? Check the board for warp. Also make sure you are only clamping the stock on one side so that the off cut is not being trapped which can pinch the blade and cause burning on the cut and resultant slowing and possible stalling of the saw.

 

[viper2pt0]

Wow you guys rock...ok so let me try to answer all of the questions / suggestions...

does the saw make a perfect square cut ?

Oddly enough, I did not actually check this (yet).  I did however put a roofing square against the fence and slide the saw against it to see how well it was tracking.  It *seemed* ok to me.

Is it fair to say that the saw was cutting fine before? Sounds like you were making good cuts before. Anything specific that changed between good cuts and not-so-good cuts?

The only thing that changed was the size / width of the piece of wood.  I had only cut narrower pieces prior.  Only 3" or so.  The issue would not have been apparent here, as the entire length of the blade would not be immersed in the cut.  Now moving on to an 8" wide piece of wood, it changes it.

Are you waiting for the saw to come to speed before plunging?

Yes, I have a CT26 attached, so I always make sure to let the saw run a second to let the vac come up to speed prior to starting my cut.  Also the issue does not occur until I'm sliding into the cut to the point where the side edge of the blade closest to me enters the wood.

Viper 2.0,

It could be crappy wood (as JMB would say).  The quality of the poplar might be the issue you're experiencing, causing it to distort when cut (crook).  Try with some totally different material, preferably a piece of MDF that is a man-made product, to eliminate the poplar as the likely culprit.

Also, where are you located?  You might be able to get some first-hand insight from someone on this forum - always better than over the internet or by phone.

Maybe it's the  way you're clamping the wood?  Maybe it's your technique?  Maybe IT IS the Kapex?  Who knows?  You could also try cutting the same poplar on a different saw and compare.

Could possibly be any of the above.  I like your idea about trying with the MDF.  I'll give that a shot tonight.  I'm located in western CT, near Danbury.  I actually purchased the saw from The ToolNut in NY.  Sean is a long time friend of mine (known each other since we were 4!).

Sounds like the blade is being pinched by the material. Your wood may be warped in such a way that it is not setting flat on the table of the KAPEX. You might try flipping the material over to see if it cuts better. Is the burning all over the cut? Is it only on one side? Check the board for warp. Also make sure you are only clamping the stock on one side so that the off cut is not being trapped which can pinch the blade and cause burning on the cut and resultant slowing and possible stalling of the saw.

Only one side (always seems to be the right side of the blade, which is the clamped side) is burning.  I'll give it a shot tonight unclamped, or clamped on the left side and see if that changes things at all.  There is 6' of wood on the clamped / burning side.  I  feel like it wouldn't move too much, or enough to cause that kind of burning...but who knows.

 

[peter halle]

i will offer a potentially stupid thing to try just to see if you are inadvertently applying sideways pressure while cutting.  With the wood that you are using, try operating the saw with the other hand and see if the burn marks change sides.  If so, go back to your normal hand and with the workpiece clamped, cut another time and watch how you are pushing.  You might notice something.

I know it sounds stupid, but just try it as an experiment.  If it helps I will reveal why I suggested this.  Otherwise my lips are sealed.  Only on this of course.  [blink]

Peter

 

[Peter James]

Hey all, my AMAZING wife recently surprised me with a Kapex.  I'm not in the business, just a handyman fixing up our first house.  Needless to say I'm elated and love the saw.  I had used it to cut some smaller pieces for window stool mouldings I'm making, and just tonight used it to cut some 1x8 poplar to make wings for the saw, similar to Dave Reinholds.  I'll be adding some Kreg top track, and stops to the wings as well.  Long story short, I was cutting the poplar flat (obviously), using the clamp that came with the saw.  I noticed on my cuts that once the entire blade entered the wood (pull all the way out, start the saw, plunge down, then begin pushing through the cut) the part of the cut closest to me, was burning fairly badly, and it was pretty easy to feel that the blade was binding.  I thought it was a weird thing, so I checked to make sure the wood didn't move, and it hadnt.  This occured on all 4 cuts I had to make.  Any ideas?  The blade is new, and I have barely any cuts on the saw.  I've downloaded and checked the supplemental manual, but I dont see any adjustments on the saw for tracking / heeling.  Help!

I appreciate any advice.

Anthony - my advice is to call The Tool Nut. I know a few guys who can help you out.....

 

[PeterK]

Had something similar with my Makita and the problem was the fence was slightly out of square with the blade. Not really noticable with 90 degree cuts but sure caused issues when the blade was tilted.

 

[viper2pt0]

i will offer a potentially stupid thing to try just to see if you are inadvertently applying sideways pressure while cutting.  With the wood that you are using, try operating the saw with the other hand and see if the burn marks change sides.  If so, go back to your normal hand and with the workpiece clamped, cut another time and watch how you are pushing.  You might notice something.

I know it sounds stupid, but just try it as an experiment.  If it helps I will reveal why I suggested this.  Otherwise my lips are sealed.  Only on this of course.  [blink]

Peter

Will give this a shot tonight as well.  I thought maybe this could be an issue, but I see 0 play in the rails on the saw, even if I was exerting a lateral force or torque, I dont see enough (or any) play between the saw and the rails for it to have an effect.  Regardless I will try it out.

Anthony - my advice is to call The Tool Nut. I know a few guys who can help you out.....

Will do, just want to make sure I rule all other things out before I hit you guys up

 

[Peter James]

No worries - we'll just send Sean out to make a house call  [scared]

 

[josephgewing]

Anthony,

I had a similar problem - which was very vexing = I tried all the square and true measuring that you have done and tried all the different techniques that members have suggested.

What solved the problem was loosening the screws that attached the saw to my work bench.  Apparently the Kapex base was * warped* or twisted a slight amount by the mounting screws.  I could not detect this with straight edges, squares or feeler gauges.

I sent a sample of wood with before and after cuts to Festool in case it would help others.  I never heard back from them.

So my suggestion is to try loosening the mounting screws/bolts and see if that solves the problem. Hope it does.

Joe

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Is the 6' of lumber hanging out the right side of the saw, supported?

I am a left side guy, I hate when finished stuff hangs out to my right.

 

[viper2pt0]

Is the 6' of lumber hanging out the right side of the saw, supported?

I am a left side guy, I hate when finished stuff hangs out to my right.

Wood is fully supported.  I agree, I hate the right side, but where my saw is currently, not permanent, the right side is more convenient.  Will be trying out some of the suggestions shortly while wifey goes to the gym.  Will report back.  Thanks again for everyone's ideas.

 

[viper2pt0]

Ok...so cutting wide MDF....no issue.  Tried loosening the base of the saw from the stand...no change in cutting the poplar.  Tried flipping the poplar, etc.  It looks like it may be the wood, but I'm still not entirely sure / happy with that diagnosis.  It just seems weird to me.  I did find a similarly sized piece of wood, not sure what kind...and it cut that with no issue as well.  OH well, I suppose I'll chalk it up to the wood, but I'll be keeping a close eye on it.  Thanks again for everyone's input and suggestions.