Kapex Heeling?

I gave up on poplar wood a long time ago because of pinching issues on the table saw and just general warping issues.
 
Will you be returning the defective poplar to Home Depot?  [big grin]

Sorry Anthony, but I had to ask.
 
Ken Nagrod said:
Will you be returning the defective poplar to Home Depot?  [big grin]

Sorry Anthony, but I had to ask.

Haha, no I dont think so.  Good question though...since I'm very new to woodworking...I used the poplar to make wings for the kapex.  One of the boards (even though I eyed every one and picked the best) is cupped.  It may not be a huge issue...but kind of annoying to me.  Is there a better wood for this that would be more rigid?  Would red oak be better since it has a much tighter grain?  In general (anyone have a good reference site?)  what are good woods to use for what purpose?...kind of like a pro and con list maybe?
 
Anthony,

My advice for making the extension wings would be to go to a hardwoods lumber dealer and buy something quartersawn, like oak and make sure that there are plenty of growth rings showing at the board ends.  That will be much straighter and more stable, over many years of use.  You could also make the whole thing out of CDX plywood or a combination of these two.
 
viper2pt0 said:
Hey all, my AMAZING wife recently surprised me with a Kapex.  I'm not in the business, just a handyman fixing up our first house.  Needless to say I'm elated and love the saw.  I had used it to cut some smaller pieces for window stool mouldings I'm making, and just tonight used it to cut some 1x8 poplar to make wings for the saw, similar to Dave Reinholds.  I'll be adding some Kreg top track, and stops to the wings as well.  Long story short, I was cutting the poplar flat (obviously), using the clamp that came with the saw.  I noticed on my cuts that once the entire blade entered the wood (pull all the way out, start the saw, plunge down, then begin pushing through the cut) the part of the cut closest to me, was burning fairly badly, and it was pretty easy to feel that the blade was binding.  I thought it was a weird thing, so I checked to make sure the wood didn't move, and it hadnt.  This occured on all 4 cuts I had to make.  Any ideas?  The blade is new, and I have barely any cuts on the saw.  I've downloaded and checked the supplemental manual, but I dont see any adjustments on the saw for tracking / heeling.  Help!

I appreciate any advice.

Have you figured out the problem with this yet?  I can't remember where I read it, but someone was having an issue where the saw was cutting at 90 degrees fully extended, but by the time he pushed through (forward), he was at 89 degrees.  That means that the saw blade is turning very slightly as it moves forward, which would cause binding/burning on wood.  You WON'T notice this on MDF because it's too soft, the blade will tear through it too easily. But try an old school squaring method.  Take a piece of MDF that you KNOW is straight,  and as wide as possible to test the entire length of the saw's tracking.  Cut through at 90 degrees, then flip one piece so the end that was against the fence is now facing you.  Now push the two ends together.  If I'm right you'll see a gap in the wood and maybe a little notch at one end too. 
 
Yeah I am curious too.. Was it the poplar?

And did I mention your wife is model to all other women in the world? I am a DIY'r, work mainly on my own home and my friends homes. I DREAM of a Kapex! If the timing is right down the road I will get one eventually. For now my Jet 10" SCMS will have to do, not a bad saw by any means actually.

Hope you get this figured out!
 
Put a straight edge across the back fence where you butt the wood to.  If you notice gaping towards the middle your fence is out of alignment.  I'd say that would definitely be making the board burn close to you. I use poplar for my built ins and cabinet faces, great stuff, hard, workable and stable. If the board is slightly bowed you would get same result as others stated, hopefully you own a joiner or a ts55.
 
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