Kapex instead of tablesaw

[Bob D.]

"I think this is where you get into if you have the room, find an old dewalt radial arm saw, set it up perfectly square and only ever use it for straight cross cuts.  If I had a permeant shop, that's what I'd be doing.  Then next to it on the same bench the compound miter."

This is what I do with my RAS since I have room. But I use it for making half-laps and such. I have a 12" SCMS so I keep a dado set in the RAS and set it up for a snug fit on 23/32" ply so I can run a dado in a single pass. I have modified/improved the dust collection of the RAS so that most of the sawdust is sent to the cyclone. If I need something wider then it is easy to make as many repeat passes as needed. Anything narrower I use a router for.

 

[sancho57]

I thought Id elaborate more. My previous response didnt tell the whole story.

I have a TS 75 mounted into my CMS. It does a good job. Not great but it does what I need. It also is very pricey. Like somene mentioned when you add up the cost of a TS 75, the module, the extension table and the CS50 fence, you can prolly get the saw stop jobsite saw.

Now for the million dollar question, can a tracksaw replace a table saw. For the most part Id say yes. But you will have to make some jigs and some accessories to make it work.
Dados, I use my 1010 and a guide rail very accurate. You will need to buy the edge guide for it.
Where a table saw shines IMO is ripping thin stock. Yes it can be done using a track saw w parallel guides, but it is a slower process.

I have a Kapex that I use for cross cuts up to the saws width limitations then I use the MFT and TS 55 for that.
Yes it is a pain to swap out CMS modules so I got the VL stand only. I own both the GE kit which I bought with the router module in the states, it has the sliding table and the outfeed table.
I have not used the sliding table with my router yet. But use it quite a bit with mt TS 75. It excels at at cutting drawer bottoms.

Oh BTW, I use my 850 planer with the accessory fence to edge joint my stock and to clean up the stock I cut on my TS 75. Yes I have a full size jointer 6" Jet. But The 850 to me is a lot quicker as I have to move the jet out, joint clean up the dust/chips and move it back as I dont have a DC with a 4" hose and my CT wont keep up.

I as I have said here many times what the CMS shines at is the ability to make your own modules. I have one for my 6" delta bench drinder, one for my 5" delts bench sander belt sander combo and also just made a module to use my 850 bench top jointer module.
One of the complaints about the 850 bench top jointer is that it doesnt have a on and off switch, once you put the trigger clip in it will run until you pull it out or unplug the machine.
With the CMS module I can plug the 850 in the CMS and use its switch to turn it on and off. same with the other modules I made.

 

[RussellS]

Where a table saw shines IMO is ripping thin stock. Yes it can be done using a track saw w parallel guides, but it is a slower process.

This is where I just don't see a track saw or miter saw or anything else replacing a table saw.  Ripping.  Rails on a table.  Rails and stiles for kitchen cabinets.  These jobs need perfectly matched, sized pieces.  Almost any table saw with almost any fence can do this.  But its a lot harder and requires a lot more effort to maybe achieve this with a track saw.  Maybe.  And ripping to exact size is a very common task in woodworking.  Its not a task you do once a year.

I believe professional kitchen cabinet shops have a cabinet saw (PM66, Unisaw) setup with a power feeder and the fence set at exactly 2.25" width.  Used for cutting rails and stiles and face frames.  And someone stands at that saw hour after hour feeding stock into it to get exactly sized rails and stiles.  The same cabinet shop will have CNC machines and sliding table saws to cut everything else.  But for the task that the cabinet saw excels at, ripping long narrow strips, its the only tool to use.

 

[sancho57]

[member=13115]RussellS[/member]

When I wrote "thin strips I meant like 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 etc. F/Fs are a piece of cake with a track saw and a jig.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/how-i-rip-ff-and-door-pieces/