Kapex KS120 or TS-55 with rails/clamps/etc?

E

Ed Bray

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2014
Messages
411
Okay, it seems I have been bitten by the bug that causes the Festool Infestation.

As it was my Birthday yesterday and I received a reasonable amount of money, along with the proceeds of the sale of my DF500 (I still have the DF700XL and Senaca adapter & bits) and a small lottery win, I was pondering buying a TS-55 along with 2x 1400 rails, 1x 800mm rail and various assorted clamps along with a MFT copy worktop with a little left over, but, with the prices as they are at the moment in the UK for just a little more I can buy a Kapex KS120 from Powertool-Supplies.

Now, I have been woodworking for a number of years and to date have never felt I needed a tracksaw. I have always been happy enough with the use of one of my circular saws and straight clamps to cut my sheet goods and as I have never had the need to cut an 8ft sheet down lengthwise the additional cutting facility that I would get from the 2.8mtrs by joining the 1400 rails together has never raised its head. So, do I really need a Tracksaw?

On the other hand, I have both a Dewalt 10" Radial Arm Saw (haven't used it for a number of years) and a SIP 10" Ultimate Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, this I use for almost all my crosscutting excepting anything that I can cut on the crosscut sled on my table saw (when I want smaller parts with a high degree of accuracy).

My thinking is, that if I buy the Kapex KS120 now the TS-55 is still obtainable at a later date, even if I have to buy it all in dribs and drabs, whereas if I buy the TS-55 kit now, it may be quite a while before I could afford a KS120.

So, what would you suggest?
 
If I was told I had to get rid of my Kapex or my ts55 I would let the kapex go. Don't get me wrong it's a great saw but only does the same as any other mitre saw, just a bit better. I would not be without my ts55, it makes cutting sheets so quick and easy compared to a normal circular saw and you get a finished edge, all you really need is the ts55 and a 1.4m rail, the extras you mention do help but you can do it all with just the basic kit.

Just my opinion, it all depends what you do and how you work. You have a tablesaw which I don't so might be different for you.

Doug
 
Ed,

We have similar situations and set ups.....

I too have the radial arm saw and a miter saw (non sliding), which I have set up across one side of my shop with benches in between and on each end, so I have about an 18 ft top for use with those saws.  I also have a cabinet saw.

I'm still rethinking, with the pending Kapex sale next month, do I need a Kapex or not?  If I get it, I would likely sell both current saws, but.....really hate to give up the RAS.  It has proven too useful in past!  My miter saw is very accurate, and I have a lot invested in blades for both.  I could however reduce the footprint of having two saws incorporated into one long miter saw / Radial arm saw station, and use this space for, uh, MORE FESTOOLS!!!!

I got into Festool based on the TS-55 and cutting down sheets of plywood/MDF.  I would never do without the TS-55.  I Echo Doug S on this....  The TS-55 is more useful than cutting down sheets, it along with the MFT can make a pretty good set up for cutting all types of wood, etc...

I would suggest you look at not just the cost of the Kapex, but consider the cost of the blades as well, they are quite expensive!  If like me, you have a lot invested in the other saws that you will never recapture any $$$....  I will go back to the old stand by saying of......what do you need the most?  What can help improve your output and product?  I want a Kapex, but, I don't need a Kapex.  Good luck with your decision!!!

Gary
 
Get the TS, it is an invaluable tool, I have had the TS for nine years now and wouldn't be without it. I bought my TS when Festoons were sold for the recommended price (no discounting then), and had to swallow hard at the price. The first job I used on I couldn't believe that I had managed without it and have never looked back.
I also have a Kapex which I have only had just over a year, this replaced a DW708 which I'd used since 1995. If I was only able to keep one Festool it would be the TS.
Buy the TS you don't have a tool like it!
 
I guess it depends on how much you use sheet goods. If you mainly use solid wood you may very rarely have the need for the TS55 and rails whereas the Kapex is useful for all types of woodwork.

BUT - if you are using or planning to work with sheet goods - especially expensive veneered boards you will love the TS55 and rails. And it's nothing like a straight edge and average circular saw - the difference being you get the finished cut off the Festool setup.

You already have a mitre saw - they do need a fair bit of space in use. You'll probably need to ask yourself what the extra features the Kapex has will offer you for your type of work.
 
Thanks to all that replied. I have finally made my decision and decided to order a TS55 with rails etc.

Am I correct in thinking that the MFT is normally used as a sacrificial surface?
 
Whether or not end users use the top as a sacrificial surface is up to them.  Festool designed it to be.  But there are many users who have used foam, thin tempered hardboard, cardboard, etc. to protect their top.  Personally I cut into mine wherever I need to.  Personally I would prefer to concentrate on the work at hand versus being distracted by the barrier and making sure that it is properly placed.  Barriers can also interfere with any sort of clamping that uses the holes in the top.

Peter
 
Getting the TS is a wise choice.  I am one who has used all three of the MFT tables (1080/600/mft/3)  The 1080 was my first on which i did all of my cutting directly into the surface.  The problem i ran into was that when using the table for assembly, any glue that dripped into the kerf trails was a real PITA to remove.  The 600 and the /3 have been well protected with 1/2" MDF strips. It is sometimes a pain to move those strips to facilitate clamping, but, not as painful to me as removing glue from the kerf trails.  I have rubbed in danish oil, wax and/or poly urethane onto the surfaces and any glue that does drip onto surface is very easily removed with no more that a fingernail. 

I have a dust spewing SCMS (Hitachi 8-1/2") that i keep thinking to replace with a Kapex.  I almost never use the Hitachi because of the lack of an adequate solution to the dust spitting all over the area.  I can do just about anything with my TS 55 that I can do with the Kapex.  sometimes it takes a little trial & error, but it can be done.  There are a whole list of things I cannot do with the Kapex that can be done with the TS 55. 

I have gotten rid of my table saw and RAS.  I sometimes miss the Table Saw.  I do miss my RAS the most.  If you have the space and like using that (RAS), I personally (from my own experience) wood hang on to that.  I would replace my table saw with a bench type such as the Yellow before I could bring myself to bringing home a Kapex. (of course, if one dropped out of the sky, i would definitely find a space for it.  right now, the Kapex (even with 10% discount) is at the end of my list of all that has been mentioned above.

I know you will be happy with your TS 55.  As you gain experience, you will find many uses you haven't even thought about yet.
Tinker 
 
Good choice with the TS55; once you've used it you'll never want to go back to clamping a straight edge. FWIW, my MFT replaced my RAS...

Re. the sacrificial top, I routed out a shallow (~9mm) housing/dado into the MFT top and fitted in a strip of scrap 9mm MDF with double-sided tape; this is flush with the surface so doesn't interfere, and is easily replaced when it becomes worn.

HTH Pete
 
Peterm said:
Good choice with the TS55; once you've used it you'll never want to go back to clamping a straight edge. FWIW, my MFT replaced my RAS...

Re. the sacrificial top, I routed out a shallow (~9mm) housing/dado into the MFT top and fitted in a strip of scrap 9mm MDF with double-sided tape; this is flush with the surface so doesn't interfere, and is easily replaced when it becomes worn.

HTH Pete
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice, do you use a 20mm forstner bit for the holes?
 
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