Kapex Laser & base

[ForumMFG]

I started messing around with the laser today on my kapex because out of the box, the laser was not accurate what so ever.  So I read the directions and such.  Set it to my preferences.  After I did all this and made some cuts, I realized that I really don't think I like using the laser.  Are you really on the left or right side of the laser or are you splitting the line down the middle?  I think you waste more time trying to line up the laser then you would if you just drop the saw blade down and line the blade up with your line.  Also, I found it very hard to make the laser parallel to the saw and just get it to where I wanted it to.

I would like to hear your comments about how you like or dislike the laser and experiences with setting up the laser.

My next problem is, the black piece of rubber that is on the base.  I don't know what it is called but say the blade is all the way down into the base, there is a rubber piece of material that kinda creates a zero clearance.  This piece does not set flush with the base.  It only sits flush with the base where the screws are.  Now I can get it to sit flush if I press really hard on the piece of wood I'm cutting so it creates a completely flat surface.  Has anyone else had this problem?  How did you fix it?

 

[mwhafner]

I had a saw in the past with a laser, and almost never used it.  I would turn it on occasionally when doing framing or deck work, when fine accuracy wasn't as important as speed. 

When I bought the Kapex, I decided to give the lasers a try.  I have become a believer.  They do require an occasional adjustment when you are moving the saw frequently.  I have a price of 1/2" MDF that I made a shallow kerf cut.  I primed with board with a white primer, and use to check the alignment of both the fence and lasers.  The primer makes it a little easier to see if the laser is spilling into the kerf.

 

[mastercabman]

I used saws with lasers and I'm not to fanatic about it.Sometime the red light is so strong that you can't see your pencil mark(when you work with little light),or you wonder if the laser is still accurate.But sometime it is good when you are cutting crown moulding.
As for the black piece on the table,are you talking about the kerf plate?If so,there are been some complaint about it and I'm not sure what Festool has come up to fix that problem.
I'm sure someone else will be able to tell you what to do.

 

[Mike B]

Love the laser, had no problem calibrating it. Though I still often use the old method out of habit. 

With regards to the insert, it's a known problem. Ring Festool and they will send you out a replacement... or make your own out of wood (I have).

 

[Frank-Jan]

For allignment of the lasers, I found the description of the supplemental owners manual much better than the manual that comes with the saw.
I don't use them very much, but it's nice for transferring the miterangle. (I don't use the lasers on stock that isn't white, because it makes it hard to see the pencil-line). But I found them handy on profiled stock.

As for the insert they tend to grow a bit and bow upwards, depending on your climate could happen fast, mine did this after I had the saw for over a year, and I received a new pair from festool.

 

[Dan Clermont]

I lined up my KAPEX lasers using a piece of white melamine. I set the lasers to the edge of the saw kerf so I know my cut line is on the inside of the laser.

The KAPEX lasers are well focused and crisp so you can get pretty accurate cuts compared to many other saws on the market

Dan Clermont

 

[Neill]

Dave,

I went through the procedure Rick Christopherson detailed in his supplemental manual to align the lasers and the kerf.  They were both spot on.  Since my saw remains stationery I have not needed to make any further adjustments.

I use the laser line all the time.  In fact I have become dependent on them to make an accurate cut.  As Dan does, I line up the edge of the laser line with my cut line.  What makes the Kapex special is that I can do it right or left.  If you center the laser lines on the cut line, hypothetically you cut could be off by half the width of the blade. Could make a difference if you need a tight joint.

Neill

 

[ForumMFG]

Neill,  I read and did the same thing as you.  Its most likely operator error.  I'll try it again and set it up how you 2 set it up.

There are 3 ways to modify the laser for each side.  I understand the one function that makes the laser parallel to the blade, I understand the function that sets the distance from the laser to the blade, but I don't understand the 3rd function.  Can you explain this to me?

 

[Frank-Jan]

► The Tilt adjustment is used to ensure the lasers are pointing parallel to the sawblade, so they trace out the same line regardless whether the saw is raised or lowered.
► The Yaw adjustment rotates the laser (as viewed from above the saw) so it remains parallel with the path of the saw cut (front-to-rear).
► The lateral adjustment moves the laser toward or away from the saw cut (sawblade).

The parallel to the blade function is the one he calls "yaw", The distance to the blade is a combination of the other two, if you follow the steps described they will all be setup correctly. (I didn't "get" this part from the description of the manual that came with the saw, and Rick's manual was a great help)

 

[Spike]

A couple of my laser settings were off, one considerably off. No problem adjusting them. I DO NOT use lasers for extra fine or critical cuts, the laser beam line itself no matter how fine obscures the exact placement of the cut.

 

[ForumMFG]

I've read everyones comments, I've read the supplemental guide by Rick, I've dug further on this message board and I cannot still get this laser to work right.  Tonight I spent an hour messing with the laser.  Everytime I got it absolutely perfect, I would make a cut to check.  Every single dang time I made a cut and raised the saw blade up back to normal position, the laser needed adjusted.  I not being picky either.  After each adjustment and cut, the laser was so far off there would be no point in using it.  Sometimes the laser would be parallel to the saw blade but the distance from it had changed or the laser would be angled in or out to much.  I don't know what else to do.  So far with this saw I have not seen the accuracy it claims to have.  The laser won't work, I've had to replace my Kerf plate.  The depth of each cut is not consistant while making dado's or half lap joints (of which I thought it was because of the Kerf plate but I replaced it and it's doing the same thing).  I need some help.

 

[wnagle]

Forum MFG,

Maybe call your dealer or customer service.  It's always worked for me.  They are very helpful.  Sounds like there may be a problem with your laser.  Maybe something came loose in shipping.

As for you plastic kerf plate, just make one out of wood to the specs in the manual, you will like it better being zero clearance, and it may take care of your unequal depth cuts when using the depth stop.

 

[Neill]

I've read everyones comments, I've read the supplemental guide by Rick, I've dug further on this message board and I cannot still get this laser to work right.  Tonight I spent an hour messing with the laser.  Everytime I got it absolutely perfect, I would make a cut to check.  Every single dang time I made a cut and raised the saw blade up back to normal position, the laser needed adjusted.  I not being picky either.  After each adjustment and cut, the laser was so far off there would be no point in using it.  Sometimes the laser would be parallel to the saw blade but the distance from it had changed or the laser would be angled in or out to much.  I don't know what else to do.  So far with this saw I have not seen the accuracy it claims to have.  The laser won't work, I've had to replace my Kerf plate.  The depth of each cut is not consistant while making dado's or half lap joints (of which I thought it was because of the Kerf plate but I replaced it and it's doing the same thing).  I need some help.

Dave,

First of all, even if you were being picky, there is no need for you to apologise.  At $1,300 you should expect the Kapex to work properly.  I expect everything I buy to work right, regardless of the price.

Lots of us have had problems of some sort with the Kapex.  I had a problem with the spring plate.  I would venture to say that more users have had some sort of problem than not.  This is not statistical evidence but by observation to posts made to this forum.

I respect what WNagle had to say regarding replacing the plastic kerf plate, if for no other reason than to keep thin cuts from falling underneath.  On the other hand, why should the plastic one be defective in the first place?  I also agree with WNagle regarding customer service and support. (it must be the Akron Zip in me)

The good thing I can say is that you have your 30 day return option, a 3 year warranty and some excellent customer service people at Festool.  If you contact them I am certain that they will assist you in any way they can.

I wish you good luck!

Neill

 

[ForumMFG]

Thanks for the Advise Neill.  Are you in Akron too? I'm from Youngstown.

 

[Neill]

Thanks for the Advise Neill.  Are you in Akron too? I'm from Youngstown.

Dave,

I was born and raised in Cleveland and the Eastern Suburbs.  I graduated from the University of Akron (Akron University?)  after attending Cuyahoga Community College and John Carroll University in Cleveland.  I also lived in Wooster for three years which was a wonderful place to live.

I now live in Parker, Colorado which is just south of Denver.  In between I lived in Dallas and Lufkin, Texas and East Windsor, New Jersey.

Neill

Neill

 

[TOOLMAN169]

Hello I am a new member. I Have been a long time festool user and have been completely satisfied with all of my festool tools. Until now. I just purchased the kapex saw and found the base is not level on the right side of the blade. What happen to quality control. I also have a Dewalt miter saw it is dead on. I emailed festool no reply yet

 

[Forrest Anderson]

Hello I am a new member.

Welcome to the Festool Owners Group!

I Have been a long time festool user and have been completely satisfied with all of my festool tools.

If you'd care to share, I think our members would be interested to hear what kit you have... (we're a nosey bunch!)

Until now. I just purchased the kapex saw and found the base is not level on the right side of the blade.

Sorry to hear that. Presumably you got it new from a dealer, and could return it under the 30 day guarantee if necessary?

Maybe someone here has heard of the problem before. Could you explain exactly what part of the table is not level? If you laid a straight edge across the stationary and rotating parts of the table, where is the gap? If you set the saw to 45 left and 45 right, is there still a gap? Are you using the table wideners which are part of the crown stop set?

If you have the time, a photo might well help us to understand the problem better.

I emailed festool no reply yet

I assume you are in the USA as opposed to the UK, Canada, Germany, Denmark...? When did you e-mail them? I'm sure they will be in touch before too long.

Forrest

 

[peter halle]

Toolman,

Sometimes a phone call can be faster during business hours.  Their number for customer service is 888 337-8600.  Personally, if I were in your shoes, I would get in contact with the dealer who sold me the tool.  Many times that is the fastest remedy if it is available to you - which it sounds like it should be.

Just because your tool has an issue doesn't mean that there is a problem with quality control.  These tools are manufactured in Germany and then shipped here.  Then they are shipped to a dealer.  Then shipped to the consumer.  Things can happen.

As a previous owner you have experienced the quality of the tools.  Their dealer network and customer service is fabulous also.  My bet is you'll see.

Peter

 

[TOOLMAN169]

The problem seams to be the stationary base on the right side. A straight edge only rocks  between the right rotating base" right side of the blade" and the right stationary base. Yes I do have the crown stops on both side. The left side is level and the right side is not. I did call my frestool local rep and should have a replacement unit tomorrow

 

[TOOLMAN169]

Well I picked up my new replacement kapex today. This is my 2nd unit. Unloaded it from my truck and carried it back to my shop. Unpacked everything as before. Set it on my table and grabbed my level. Surprise this one is not level either. Please let me explain. If you are standing in front of this saw you have a stationary base at the left then a rotating base left of the blade then a rotating base right side of the blade then a right stationary base. Everything is level ,flat, square until you get to the right stationary side base then it a 64 th or 32 th lower so my 2 ft straight rocks about a 1/16 from one end to the other. This is not acceptable to me. If Festool can't make this unit level then they should just quit making them. I went to a home depot and checked every miter saw they had in stock. Every one was completely level across the base. They ranged from $199 to $679. I Still never received a responce from Festool  Help