Kapex Miter Table Adjustment

Mdjagg

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Jun 22, 2013
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There are a few post already out there which I have read through and wanted to start a new post dedicated specifically to the Kapex miter turn table.  This, in my opinion is the major weakness of this saw and figured that there are people out there who have found a way around this time killer.

I would like this to not get side tracked into hopefuls for the next version or other unrelated topics and to focus on making the best of what is actually in our possessions.

Is there anyone out there who has been able to increase the smoothness of the glide on the table?
Oiling, sanding, grinding, rebuilding?  I would almost do anything to have a table as smooth as my last saw(no brands mentioned). 

The Kapex would be the ultimate miter saw if this weakness was worked out.

I have one trick on how to make micro adjustments with one hand holding the work piece against the fence, which is very necessary for almost all cuts, and using the other to move the miter a little a time.  The key is having a small quick clamp, in this picture I am using a bigger one, but i usually have the little micro clamps that work nicely.  So, the method is, clamp down the thumb plunger and bump the table with a closed fist or the bottom of your palm until just right. 

I am usually using this method when I am trying to get the laser directly on marks at the top and bottom of a work piece that needs to be cut 1/8 or less over the distance of 4-8" board.  Sometimes it is just taking the 16th" to 0 and using the lasers to find that miter. Once you find the angle, there's no need to remove the clamp, just push the whole thing down to lock it in place.  You've just made your own detent override for the Kapex, something Germans probably don't need because all of there homes are perfectly square. 



Before I started using this method I found it difficult to move the turn table in small increments, or if I could get it, it was with two hands which made looking at the lasers on the piece inaccurate.

Ok, any other methods?

The reason I did not put this in the problems section is because technically it is not a problem, nothing is broke, just a major design flaw.

Please don't make this thread a topic on Germans, or their homes. 

 
Mine slides very easily and smoothly. When using the angle transfer device I can hold it with one hand and adjust the table with the other without a problem. Smooth as butter.

Peter
 
Peter Durand said:
Mine slides very easily and smoothly. When using the angle transfer device I can hold it with one hand and adjust the table with the other without a problem. Smooth as butter.

Peter

Same here. Making small adjustments like this isn't a problem for me.
 
jonny round boy said:
Peter Durand said:
Mine slides very easily and smoothly. When using the angle transfer device I can hold it with one hand and adjust the table with the other without a problem. Smooth as butter.

Peter

Same here. Making small adjustments like this isn't a problem for me.

Me 3 ... no problem with mine.
 
Interesting, I thought this was a know thing that effected all of them. I'm a little concerned then because I got my saw back from servicing this past Friday. I noticed right away that compared to my other miter saw, different brand, it's more difficult to rotate and near impossible to move just a fraction of a degree without the clamp and bump method.  They tuned everything and actually the miter plate (the things with the detents) was replaced, so brand new. Actually, it feels the exact same as it did before I sent it in (in regards to the miter movent). And before lunch I noticed that I can move the table back and forth just a bit when in a positive stop. My other saw the whole saw moves when i do this same test.

Is there a warranty on the repairs? Free shipping if it didn't come back in perfect shape?
 
Mdjagg said:
Interesting, I thought this was a know thing that effected all of them.

It was a known thing that affected a small proportion of saws on the US market, I believe. Just how small that proportion was, I've no idea.

Very surprised they didn't sort it when you had it serviced though.
 
jonny round boy said:
Mdjagg said:
Interesting, I thought this was a know thing that effected all of them.

It was a known thing that affected a small proportion of saws on the US market, I believe. Just how small that proportion was, I've no idea.

Very surprised they didn't sort it when you had it serviced though.

What Jonny is referring to is an issue that some of the saws from the first batch released here in N. America.  The Kapex has, by design, more resistance in the miter table.  There is a conical spring wash that creates with resistance.  It is possible to remove this washer.  Check out this thread over on the talkFestool forum, Eiji Fuller's Kapex Mods - Miter Table
 
I also do not like the miter table on the Kapex.NOT smooth.
Some of you may think it is but I don't think you know how some of us feel about what smooth should be.
The new Milwaukee has a real nice miter table
I will try the clamp thing idea,i also have to use both hands to do a 1/4 degree adjustment when the table is sitting on a detent.
 
I agree, I think it's matter of knowing what other saw miter tables feel like. But then again maybe it's luck of the draw. I'll let you know when/if it gets fixed
 
Mine has a lot more resistance than I wish it had and setting it 1/2 degree off of a detent is a two hand bump and go operation.  Had not thought of the clamp and have always considered doing the mod to make it move easier. 
The only other saw I've ever used (owned) that had anywhere near the resistance to movement of the kapex was an old rockwell 9".

Fortunately most of what I use it for the detents are all I ever need.
 
Push the button and smell the heat lol.  It worked ok and that saw has mad a LOT of sawdust and is in a storage building at my son's house now ready to take on a job. I also modded it slightly so that a 10" lu85 freud blade would fit and it produced really nice cuts.

I'm going to get a nylon washer and see what it can do.
 
I like the clamp idea, never tried it.  Have you tried other kinds of clamps in the field?  A spring clamp or one of the quick grip clamps?
 
fshanno said:
I like the clamp idea, never tried it.  Have you tried other kinds of clamps in the field?  A spring clamp or one of the quick grip clamps?

Not entirely sure what you're asking, but yes in this photo is a quick grip clamp, never used a spring clamp for this operation but as long as it was a decent one I'm sure it would work. 
 
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