JLB builders LLC
Member
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2011
- Messages
- 339
Ok I watched the crpaulk Video on the Ultimate work stand and have to say it (for me) is the best design to date. I started with the Kapex on a Dewalt 705 or something stand for a few days then ordered a Bosch gravity assist miter stand, way disappointed with that stand, rails do not extend out far and only has about 8' total work area fully out stretched. So by the second week in I decided to copy Ron Paulks design. I wanted to wait till I got my TS75 to rip the wood down easier but hey ya gotta do what ya gotta do lol.
I built mine a little deeper so the miter handle was protected and to have room to hold stuff, other than that I haven't changed any of his FLAWLESS design. I haven't finished it (started it on a job a few months ago) and keep doing a little more to it each time I use it. I still need a rail for a stop block and have seen some good ideas on other stands using the MFT stands and Kreg rails. The wings will be made this week as I have some extra finish grade plywood from a built in window seat. Last week I drilled 3/4 inch holes on a 4"x4"grid, now all I need is those Festool Clamps [big grin].
List of things to finish:
Wings: Going to make them with a block on the end to clamp onto the stand and skip the dovetail joint. Like the DT joint but a little OCD and if the wings are not being used the DT joint would just bother me. Nothing personal.
The rail: I like the Kreg rail 25" for about 60 bucks. Believe there is 29" from saw fence to the end of top.
The Kapex and stand are sitting on top of 2 adjustable sawhorses and seems to work fine. I think I will be cutting a few rectangles out under the back half of the stand to relieve some more weight, will also make it easier to clean out any dust without comprimising any structural strength.
The 2x4s under are not attached. I believe the height is 8 inches tall. The radius for the rectangle holes were done with a sardine can, had an emergency can in the work trailer [smile] The ribs that run through the for the Kapex to mount on are 3 layers of plywood, glued and screwed, mounted up on end like a LVL beam.
Thanks Ron for a GREAT design and taking the time to post it on youtube.
I built mine a little deeper so the miter handle was protected and to have room to hold stuff, other than that I haven't changed any of his FLAWLESS design. I haven't finished it (started it on a job a few months ago) and keep doing a little more to it each time I use it. I still need a rail for a stop block and have seen some good ideas on other stands using the MFT stands and Kreg rails. The wings will be made this week as I have some extra finish grade plywood from a built in window seat. Last week I drilled 3/4 inch holes on a 4"x4"grid, now all I need is those Festool Clamps [big grin].
List of things to finish:
Wings: Going to make them with a block on the end to clamp onto the stand and skip the dovetail joint. Like the DT joint but a little OCD and if the wings are not being used the DT joint would just bother me. Nothing personal.
The rail: I like the Kreg rail 25" for about 60 bucks. Believe there is 29" from saw fence to the end of top.
The Kapex and stand are sitting on top of 2 adjustable sawhorses and seems to work fine. I think I will be cutting a few rectangles out under the back half of the stand to relieve some more weight, will also make it easier to clean out any dust without comprimising any structural strength.
The 2x4s under are not attached. I believe the height is 8 inches tall. The radius for the rectangle holes were done with a sardine can, had an emergency can in the work trailer [smile] The ribs that run through the for the Kapex to mount on are 3 layers of plywood, glued and screwed, mounted up on end like a LVL beam.
Thanks Ron for a GREAT design and taking the time to post it on youtube.
