Once adjusted, the lasers (one on each side of the cut) are good for close approximation of the cut line. If I need a high precision cut, I will drop the blade down to the pencil mark before starting the cut. Getting the blade down without starting the motor takes a few practice runs, but is second nature now.
Be warned, the Allen wrecch for the laser adjustment is hard to see in the packaging. Mine was stuck into the styrofoam. My lasers took about 15 minutes to adjust once I had read the supplemental manual.
All other aspects of the saw needed no adjustments. The cuts at 90 and 45 were dead on and have remained so.
I added a zero clearance insert and it has improved the cut quality and eliminated slivers of wood collecting below the blade.
I built a zero clearance supplemental fence per the manual's plans but almost never use it. If I'm worried about blowout, I just add a piece of scrap behind the board I'm cutting.
I've seen lots of complaints about the saw's table components not being perfectly true. I've never seen the need to measure mine and I do high precision work on the Kapex.
I've also seen lots of complaint about the base casting not being highly finished around the lower rim. I've never looked at mine. Hey, it's a casting!
I did add the extensions on both sides of my Kapex. The extra 5 to 6 inches of support on each side are useful. The extensions also allow me to mount some jigs I've built for the Kapex.
Dust collection is very good, but don't expect 100%. It's better on some cuts than others.