Kapex table flatness

[peter halle]

This problem seems to come up regularly so there has to be a problem with SOME saws from factory. My pivoting table sits higher than the tables on the side. I wish someone from festool would chime in and come up with a simple adjustment or any easy answer. I would rather not have to remove my saw from its permanent location, box it up and ship it back to festool Canada and have no saw for 3 weeks if the fix is a different size spacer or the maybe the centre pivot bolt needs adjusting, get the picture.
Also I have the UG extensions mounted on my bench without legs but with the mounting plates. The plates are not the correct height to keep the extensions level with the saw height. Again these were not cheap. Are they all like this or is there a varience in height from factory? anyone from festool got any answers?

thx
Lambeater

As much as a moderator I love to see people ask questions here, I would suggest that you contact Festool Canada at 613-363-0169 and talk to them about your situation.  Sometimes a couple of minutes on the phone can be so much more efficient than the web.

Peter

 

[fp1337]

Sorry to unearth this thread but I have a couple of things to add for accuracy junkies.

It appears frequent for the Kapex to have slanted sides. In other words, if you look at the sides, they are angled down towards the turntable. Obviously we're talking a minuscule amount, paper thick.

As far as the turntable itself 1 of 2 things can happen: either it's coplanar with the raised end of the sides, or it's coplanar with the lowered end of the sides. It can't be coplanar with both since the sides are slanted.

All these measurements are taken with the miter stop disengaged using a tie, because the miter stop actually throws everything off by a significant amount! The force of the miter stop pushing down on the saw base is enough to raise the miter arm, which affects how the turntable is coplanar with the sides.

If your turntable is too high you can take it out easily and you can sand the bottom a tad bit to bring it down some. If the turntable is too low you can add paper shims under the 3 metal sections that are screwed to the base under the turntable. But keep in mind that once everything is nice and level your miter stop will affect the accuracy anyway... But most likely this will not be noticeable in your cuts.

 

[Acrobat]

Interesting that this should come up now, very timely. I bought the Kapex a couple months ago and hadn't noticed anything. However a couple weeks ago I bought the UG extensions.
I haven't had much time lately so last weekend I set up the Kapex and UG stand. Once again not much time so I figured I'd just do a basic set-up to get the hang of it and then dial in later.
I ended up spending a bit more time than I could afford because I noticed the same problem as mentioned by OP.
- Clear height difference between the rotating center base area and the end base areas of the Kapex. A very shy, less than 1/16". Probably not a big deal since I didn't even notice when using the Kapex on the trim job I bought it for.
- This next thing really bugs me though and shouldn't be. The left wing sits 1/16" higher than the Kapex base. The right wing sits 1/16" longer than the Kapex base. OR vice-versa can't remember right now. This is definitely some bad BS.
I haven't had time since last weekend to look again at any of it, just too busy. I'm hoping there are some adjustment screws or something on the wing attachments. If not, thats a real problem. I'm hoping I'll have some time tomorrow to look into this more.

On mine I put the left UG extension on and it sits LOWER than the bed of the Kapex, so I couldn't even slide a piece of timber across without it hitting and lifting onto the bed. So annoying. I fixed it by adding washers to the underside of the extension where it screws on to the V groove. I only have the left extn, if I ever get the right side I'll double check that is flush. I did try the short table extension but once again that wasn't flush either on the left or the right and took it back. I am a bit peeved and feel a tad disappointed and my belief in Festool quality now dented. Even things I previously overlooked, (like my TS55R not having its height guage correctly set when it's brand new)  and the Dominos fence height lock always slipping,  makes me feel I will now reconsider any further purchases unless I get the dealer to show me the product thoroughly before I leave the store.

 

[dustmaker41]

I agree.  Something this expensive shouldn't require the addition of washesr, shims, etc.  I know, I know, send it back to Festool and they will fix it.  Excellent customer service.  I dont have time or the desire to send it back.  Something of quality shouldn't require immediate service.  I have a Sawhelper stand with the connectors from Multiblades that allow me to use the crown stops or clamps in the grooves which makes crown molding pretty simple.  I like to add a pc of 1x2 across the saw bed and clamp it down on both sides.  However, I can't clamp them very hard because the center of the bed is higher than the rest of the table.  I checked my other 2 SCMS (which were all  less than $500) and they are all flat.  Sad really.  So sad my Kapex is sitting in the garage where it has been for almost 2 months.  I parked it when I had to trim a house that was all white oak trim.  Craftsman style.  Lots of 5/4 material and 9" base.  This saw was definitely not designed to cut thick hardwoods.  It was laboring so hard I thought it would shut off.  I started with a new 80T blade and then switched back to the 60T (which was just sharpened) which was leaving whiskers that really annoyed me.  I tried this for one day before switching saws.  Not sure when or if I will get it back of the shelf.  It has been grounded indefinitely.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

Mine is coplanar at 90, and when mitered to one side, but has a slight high spot on the center table when mitered to the other side.  I estimated it is about 1/32nd" or so.  What do other suggest I do?

My crown stops sit a bit low to the base.  Is there a way to shim them level to the base?

 

[Brice Burrell]

I agree.  Something this expensive shouldn't require the addition of washesr, shims, etc.   I know, I know, send it back to Festool and they will fix it.  Excellent customer service.  I dont have time or the desire to send it back.   Something of quality shouldn't require immediate service.   I have a Sawhelper stand with the connectors from Multiblades that allow me to use the crown stops or clamps in the grooves which makes crown molding pretty simple.  I like to add a pc of 1x2 across the saw bed and clamp it down on both sides.  However, I can't clamp them very hard because the center of the bed is higher than the rest of the table.  I checked my other 2 SCMS (which were all  less than $500) and they are all flat.  Sad really.  So sad my Kapex is sitting in the garage where it has been for almost 2 months.  I parked it when I had to trim a house that was all white oak trim.   Craftsman style.  Lots of 5/4 material and 9" base.  This saw was definitely not designed to cut thick hardwoods.  It was laboring so hard I thought it would shut off.  I started with a new 80T blade and then switched back to the 60T (which was just sharpened) which was leaving whiskers that really annoyed me.   I tried this for one day before switching saws.  Not sure when or if I will get it back of the shelf.  It has been grounded indefinitely.

Then you certainly had plenty of time send it back to Festool.  I'd suggest you send it back if it's still in the first year and then put it in the classified section here or on CL since there are people that would love to have your saw.....

 

[ScotF]

Mine is coplanar at 90, and when mitered to one side, but has a slight high spot on the center table when mitered to the other side.  I estimated it is about 1/32nd" or so.  What do other suggest I do?

My crown stops sit a bit low to the base.  Is there a way to shim them level to the base?

I had to shim my crown stops -- real easy to do -- just loosen and the screws that hold the plastic V on the stop and then use card stock and shim it level to the base -- you might have to use trial and error, but it is a quick fix.  I had to do the same kind of tweaking with the extensions, but it works fine.

Scot