kapex - the new weapon

I've been making and using 6mm zero clearance inserts like Jonny's and others above, but with one difference. 

I cut both nested crown and flat stock everyday, requiring me to switch from angle cutting to bevel cuts constantly.  When a zero clearance plate is installed, it works great until the bevel feature is used on the saw.  Then the zero plate is no longer a zero plate!!  So I like to switch plates as needed. 

I have been using double sided foam tape to attach the plates for about a year now, no ill effects.  But much quicker to change out without having to unscrew and screw in the attaching screws.  Also, the tape acts to bring the plate up to the same level as the saws table. 

Dan
 
Dan,

You've been using your Kapex for over a year.  Its not the only saw you've ever had, I assume.  Do you find that it is more or less or equal in its likelihood to shoot a piece of scrap across the room?

 
Peter,

You are correct, I've owned a number ( and still do) of saws.  All good quality.  Makita, Hatachi, even the Dewalt wasn't bad. 

I don't think that any saw is more likely to shoot small projectiles over another.  Almost everytime I experience a missile flying across a room, I have that short "pucker" moment that I knew someting wasn't right, BEFORE I START THE CUT!!!

I believe that 95% of the time, small cut-offs that go flying are an operator problem, not a tool defect.  That's why I use a Chop Shop hood, even with my Kapex.  I'm an operator, and I have problems!!  Seriously, I learned this hard lesson when I shot a piece of very expensive 1/4 sawn oak through an even more expensive Frank Lloyd Wright window.  Worked for free a week or so to pay that off.

Dan
 
Whoops!!

My old Bosch, Makita and the old 8 1/2" hitatchi would fling them just as much as my kapex will.

Dan is right, it is usually user error that leads to most projectiles.
 
Dan Rush said:
I'm an operator, and I have problems!!   
Dan

Dan,

I have them too,.. but I like to call them "issues"  [laughing]

Worked for free a week or so to pay that off.

Yeah, hate that one. I never set up in front of a window... EVER.

I do however set up next to them  all the time so that I can slide long stock out of it. Then there was this time that the customer happened past that open window..... well, you can see where this is going. I was fortunate enough to stop the already sliding piece of stock about an inch before running it out the glass.

Since that time, I now when possible, completely remove the sash.

Returning to the topic at hand:

When it comes to cutting self returns on small stock, I like to keep this phrase in mind.... "slow down, you'll get done faster".
 
In my classroom I have 2 Kapex saws. The students make sure the blade comes to a complete stop before bringing it up. That seems to work most of the time.
However, recently I've found that slowing the blade speed down to 3 seems to help too. It makes it less likely that the wind from the blade will pick up small pieces.
 
I have been using power miter boxes since '79, it took me a few years to get in the habit to always let the blade come to a complete stop before bringing the head up on the saw.

When I make small piece cuts like returns and such I use a backer board behind the piece I am cutting. This keeps my piece intact plus gives me a clean cut.

For the most part this keeps missles being launched to a minimum...
 
harry_ said:
When it comes to cutting self returns on small stock, I like to keep this phrase in mind.... "slow down, you'll get done faster".

This reminds me of some instruction I got in my paratrooper / skydiving days:  "Smooth is fast."

The context is that I was trying to rapidly find my chute deployment "knob" and was missing it (not good in freefall, hahahaha!)  During on the ground practice I would rapidly jerk my hand to where it should be, while also moving my left arm into a counter-balancing position.  They said practice it slowly, and get "smooth" at it, then you'll find it every time.  Smooth is fast.  [big grin]

 
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