Keep TSC 55 K or upgrade TSC 55 R to thin kerf?

[serge0n]

I was thinking about upgrading my track saw to the new TSC 55 K for a while. Way more power, higher cutting speed, better dust collection... What's not to like? Ah, the absence of the riving knife which was replaced by the electronic gizmo that would stop the blade if the saw comes off the track. I can live with that if my saw has 50% more power.

So right before the January Festool price increase I pulled the trigger. The new saw arrived very quickly and I instantly got it out and compared it to my old TSC 55. To my utter disappointment, it was exactly the same saw! Same base plate, same housing, same motor, same plunge mechanism, same miter settings, same blade arbor flange and bolt. The only difference was the new electronic kick-stop system, thin kerf blades and battery gauges were no longer on the motor housing.

Since the motor is exactly the same, the "twice as fast" feat was only achieved because of thinner blades! The tool itself is identical. I felt ripped off.

What stops me from using that same thin-kerf blade on my old TSC 55 REB? The 2.2 mm riving knife, that's what. But wait a second, isn't a 1.8 mm riving knife available separately as a part?
Of course it is.
It's a part that cost $23 plus shipping.
So I got the part, fitted it to TSC 55 R and compared the speeds. Both saws cut exactly the same. Definitely much more powerful and way smoother than a 2.2 mm blade! Dust generation was reduced by 60-80%, it was mind blowing.

Here is the dilemma... Do I return TSC 55K and spend $30 (part plus shipping) on the new riving knife plus $84 for the fine cut blade or do I sell my current TSC 55 R and keep the TSC 55 K? Monetarily it's a wash. It comes down to riving knife vs electronic kick-back stop + 3 year warranty + nicer sys3 systainer (yeah, it's way better organized inside for the track saw).

What would you do and why?

 

[serge0n]

A few pictures to illustrate the TSC 55 R conversion.

Old and new riving knives side by side. Old one is easily removed by unscrewing those 2 fasteners by the arbor. Carefully remove the spring and you are done.

View attachment 1

Riving knife removed

View attachment 2

New 1.8 mm riving knife and new blade after cutting off a 2" piece from a 40 mm thick cutting board stock.

View attachment 3

 

[six-point socket II]

I'd keep both. The R should have earned her money by now, so it's nothing wrong with upgrading to the more recent K - and keep the R - with or without conversion - as spare/second.

The 1.8 mm riving knife is from the HK/HKC? No noticeable slippage of the thin blade on the R?

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[serge0n]

I'd keep both. The R should have earned her money by now, so it's nothing wrong with upgrading to the more recent K - and keep the R - with or without conversion - as spare/second.

I thought about it. Small shop, lack of space. If I keep the K, I won't have space for another tool.

The 1.8 mm riving knife is from the HK/HKC? No noticeable slippage of the thin blade on the R?

Nope, it's from TS 55 F. No slippage at all as both machines are identical. Same arbor, same arbor flange. The 1.8 mm blade is 0.4 mm thinner on the cut-off side, not 0.2 mm thinner on both sides if that makes sense. So it fits all my tracks perfectly as well, I don't need to replace the track strip.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Since you consider the price as a push, I think a lot depends upon how you use the saw.
If you cut solid wood a lot, the riving knife might be better. Sure the safety aspect of the electronic mechanism might be equal to the riving knife, but it is literally not down there holding the kerf open. Most of the tie, this may not be an issue, but that one time where the tension closes in on the saw, the riving knife equipped saw may just keep going. You do still need the cut completed after all. The electronic version stopping the kick-back is fine, but it doesn't complete the cut. You may be able to wedge the kerf open and keep going, but do you really want to?
If you use the saw for sheet goods, the newer version seems better. Sheet goods should never give you this kind of problem.
Personally, I would avoid the conversion, unless it comes directly from Festool, because it would undoubtedly void that 3 year warranty that you just paid for.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Wouldn't the arbor/flange have to move the blade closer to the track by .02mm to keep it the same?
If the blade was just narrower, the kerf would move out that far, wouldn't it?
Certainly Festool doesn't off-set the blade?

 

[Packard]

Wouldn't the arbor/flange have to move the blade closer to the track by .02mm to keep it the same?
If the blade was just narrower, the kerf would move out that far, wouldn't it?
Certainly Festool doesn't off-set the blade?

They sell shim versions (for table saws, and I would assume for track saws).  The shim version is used to allow exact cut measurements with various blades.

A google search should yield information on that.  These are fairly cheap.

I just looked on Home Depot and they have a “blade match” shim package for 5/8” arbors for $15.00.

I am not sure where to find shims for Festool arbors.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Microji...VCI3ICh3NHgfmEAQYCiABEgJ8AvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[usernumber1]

I'd return the electronic version that does not have a riving knife.

What was the part number? I found 10037341. Asking for a friend

 

[guybo]

Wouldn't the arbor/flange have to move the blade closer to the track by .02mm to keep it the same?
If the blade was just narrower, the kerf would move out that far, wouldn't it?
Certainly Festool doesn't off-set the blade?

Hi, the plate rests against the clamping flange no matter what kerf size.btw been using both my ts55eq and r with new blade for a while i worry of deflection when they began to wear,has not happened yet.

 

[Chainring]

I'd return the electronic version that does not have a riving knife.

What was the part number? I found 10037341. Asking for a friend

I did some searching and it seems that's the correct part number for the riving knife from the TS 55 FEQ-F (1.8mm). Strangely, I can't find it in EKAT from Festool US. Going through the main festool.com site, it's under the FQ model.

 

[Lincoln]

Wouldn't the arbor/flange have to move the blade closer to the track by .02mm to keep it the same?
If the blade was just narrower, the kerf would move out that far, wouldn't it?
Certainly Festool doesn't off-set the blade?

The 'track side' of the blade doesn't change position just because the thickness of the blade changes, as long as the offset between tooth kerf and plate thickness is the same.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Wouldn't the arbor/flange have to move the blade closer to the track by .02mm to keep it the same?
If the blade was just narrower, the kerf would move out that far, wouldn't it?
Certainly Festool doesn't off-set the blade?

The 'track side' of the blade doesn't change position just because the thickness of the blade changes, as long as the offset between tooth kerf and plate thickness is the same.

That's what I was getting at. Is it the same?
I don't know, I have never used or even touched the newer version.

 

[serge0n]

That's what I was getting at. Is it the same?
I don't know, I have never used or even touched the newer version.

A very late update on this - it is the same. However, the flange on the K version is 0.3 mm thicker. Which made no difference to me since the new thinner blade is positioned on the same flange as the old one was. Cuts beautifully, way less dust.

I decided to modify my old saw and return the K version. I use it more for solid lumber than for sheet goods and what you said made total sense. An electronic control is not going to keep the kerf open and my goal is to finish that cut. Preferably without stopping, adding a wedge, and starting over.

As mentioned previously, the part number for this upgrade is 10037341.

 

[Coen]

Huh, I thought there were like 4-5 different parts that needed replacing if one was to do this switch?

 

[serge0n]

Huh, I thought there were like 4-5 different parts that needed replacing if one was to do this switch?

Nope. Just the riving knife. TSC55 REB and TSC55K are essentially the same tools.

 

[Jlahr16]

May be a dumb question, but what about the splinter guard for the offcut side of the blade? Does using a thin kerf on the REB now have a gap between splinter guard and blade?

 

[ScotF]

Has anyone tried this for the corded saw or is that the version that requires several parts and is not cost effective?

 

[mino]

Wouldn't the arbor/flange have to move the blade closer to the track by .02mm to keep it the same?
...

Not in this case.

The 2.2 blades are 2.2 kerf with a 1.6 mm body, so 0.3mm offset of the flange to the cut edge.
The 1.8 blades are 1.8 kerf with a 1.2 mm body, so the same 0.3 offset.
Then there are the 1.7/1.1 "thin" blades available from CMT, again with the same 0.3 offset.

All in all, the only difference is that the 1.8 Festool and 1.7 CMT blades cannot be used with the 2.1 mm thick riving knife (for 2.2 blades) but can be used with a 1.8 mm marked (1.7 mm in reality) riving knife from the TS 55 F.

May be a dumb question, but what about the splinter guard for the offcut side of the blade? Does using a thin kerf on the REB now have a gap between splinter guard and blade?

The off-cut side anti-splinter thingie is a consumption item that needs to be replaced every so often. One would just use a new one.
A pack of 5 costs €10 over here.

As per eKat:
TS 55 R series uses a 2.1 mm knife part #10000418, the knife is not marked
TSC 55 series uses a 2.1 mm riving knife part # 10000418, the knife is not marked
TS 55 F series uses a 1.7 mm knife part #10037341, the knife is marked "1.8 mm"
TSC 55 K does not provide an ability to mount a riving knife

This makes the TSC 55 with a 1.8 mm riving knife using the 8.0 Ah batteries the most powerful Festool TS 55/60 series saw available with a riving knife. The TSC 55 is stronger than the TS 55, mostly on par with the TS 60 when used with fresh batteries.

Has anyone tried this for the corded saw or is that the version that requires several parts and is not cost effective?

The TS 55 R and TSC 55 share most of the mechanical components so any modification of those on one is possible on the other. In the same way.

The other side of this coin is that the TS 55 F series can probably be fitted with the wider par #10000418 riving knife when a more stable blade is needed.

Safety note:
One must never use a saw with a thinner riving knife than specced for the blade. That makes the safety feature of the knife non-functional.
Modifying a TSC 55 or TS 55 R to a 1.8 mm blade-compatible riving knife means the "old" 2.2 mm wood blades can no longer be used with it.

While a 1.7 blade with a 2.1 mm TSC 55 riving knife just does not cut (well), a TSC 55 F with a 2.0 mm (or wider) kerf blade would be dangerous to use for any application where a riving knife provides safety from injury.

 

[DynaGlide]

Has anyone tried this for the corded saw or is that the version that requires several parts and is not cost effective?

Would also like an answer to this. I have a TS 55 REQ and it works well but wouldn't mind running a narrower blade. It's kinda slow even on 3/4 ply.

 

[woodferret]

I'm a few months out from warranty for my TS55.  Thinking of doing the mod.  Thanks guys.