Kitchen Cabinet Door

Holmz

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Oct 11, 2014
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I thought “This will be easy”, however after looking at the carcass I have concluded that nothing is square. This is evidenced by the white Melamine that is obviously well proud on the left hand side (LHS).

End view:
17718173063_a0cb4fe52e_z.jpg


Left side:
17718183563_68e528e3da_z.jpg


Right side:
18152638969_14a26cf599_z.jpg


So my thought is to make the doorframe fit the carcass.

1) 1st step will be to cut the white Melamine so that the hinges can be mounted.
Trimming them back with a jig saw, and tun routing using the brown wood as the guide with a roller bit.

2) Then making some boxed to mount the hinges where there is currently just air.

3) Then make the the rails and stiles for the door.

The plan was to have the rails go end to end, and the stiles inside the rails.
Is that wise? or OK?

Nothing seems square… in mm:
Left Side = 352
Top = 1200
Right Side = 334
Bottom = 1200
Top-Left to Bottom Right = 1249
Top-Right to Bottom Left = 1246
With the upper left side about 6-mm above the level… So the door should swing slightly up and to the left.

One can use the “Law of Sines”
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solution_of_triangles
However I used this: http://www.mathwarehouse.com/triangle-calculator/online.php

So for the upper left angle, I poked in the following:
A = 352
B = 1200
C = 1246
and I got the upper left corner at  89.23 degrees

The rest of the corners are:
Upper right = 90.6
Lower right = 90.07
Lower left = 89.74

Assuming that all maths are correct.
What I am thinking is that I need to cut the horizontal rails with a slight angle.
And also the stiles with the slight angles on their ends.
Then Domino the 16-mm thick wood normal to the rails, which would also be normal to the off angled end of the stiles.

Does that sound like a reasonable plan?
 
Can't you just take off the top pelmet piece and scribe it to the ceiling so that it is parallel to the cabinets then just make square doors?

Rob.
 
Rob-GB said:
Can't you just take off the top pelmet piece and scribe it to the ceiling so that it is parallel to the cabinets then just make square doors?

Rob.

By gosh you might be right.
It is odd is that the whole pelmet is dropped down from the crown moulding by a whole lot???

The pelmet seems screwed in from behind, and it is pretty solid on left side, but around the carcass in question it is totally free floating and, in fact I can flex it up quite a ways, so I am sure I can get it to be even and hold it place with a clamp, and then drill a hole from the back to hold it in place with a countersunk screw.
(I may need a new drill with a right angle attachment, but I could probably do it without if I tried.)

The white melamine carcass is rock solid.

So I guess that is leaving me with a square door again.
I still would have to trim the white Melamine back to facilitate hinges non the top for an upward hinging door, so the jig saw/router is what I am looking at using.
 
Just use euro style cabinet hinges and a stay, the type that you lift the door further to release and close. Like this one in my kitchen...

bridging%252520unit%252520door.jpg


Rob.
 
Yeah - that is the plan with the stays. Either those or the Hafele ones that are spring loaded.

I need to know if the jig sawing and routing in situ sounds reasonable?
 
You do not need to do anything to the white melamine other than screw the hinges and stay to it.
Just sort out the top brown pelmet piece so you have it level. This may be easier if you remove the far right carcase, they normally (like in the back corner of my pic) are on hangers. If you can push the pelmet up enough to get it right then you could fix it in place with a 90° stretcher plate to the right hand wall. Some of us sneaky carpenters also screw the carcases together behind hinges or where the shelf will cover them  ;D
Rob.
 
Your hinges screw to the top peice of white melamine.
The Melamine on mine is hanging down in the front, and the top is recessed, so the hinges would seem to foul against front.
 
You just need the right hinges. Full overlay by the looks of your units. Or better still use blum aventos flap hinges. Have the stay and soft close all in one.
 
I got the pelmet screwed on straight last weekend.
20991385559_f7ec8fb3af_b.jpg


Got a frame dominoed up, sanded, the back side routed out for an insert, and linseed oil applied.
20555529424_91425b2b7c_b.jpg


Now to get the Aventos hinges and the inserts done.
 
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