Kitchen cabinets with ¾" backs

[Carpe Diem]

I think I have convinced myself to use ¾" prefinished for all parts on our kitchen cabinets. How would you build the cabinet using a ¾" back? Groove, Rabbet, Butt joint on the inside, or applied to the back using screws?

FYI bottom and top decks will be joined to the gables with dominos and screws.

If I were using a ¼" back I would put the 1/4" in a groove 1" from the back edge and put ¾" nailers behind.

Thoughts?

 

[Getmaverick]

If you are doing Domino's for the top and deck, why not do the back the same way.
Also why would you use 3/4 for the back?

 

[bkharman]

¾ backs might be too bulky. If you have abnormalities in the wall and need to scribe, it could be a huge pain in the ___.

Try and do ¼ or ½ backs and the according nailers.

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LooseSox]

Heap of reasons to use thicker material on the back. First up, the op mentioned pre finished, is that available thinner? Secondly it allows for a much stronger construction supporting heavier bench tops (marble, granite, concrete etc). Thirdly, you can screw them to the wall anywhere through the back and are not limited to using the top rail.

Typically I build solid backs that fit into the carcase and screwed in from the side panels. Havings said that, I build euro style modular, not box and face frame so that may change a few things pending your construction method.

 

[antss]

"Secondly it allows for a much stronger construction supporting heavier bench tops (marble, granite, concrete etc)."

While technically true ,if you have all kinds of scientific equipment to measure the sorts of failures that this might prevent  , out in the real world this akin to solid wood is better for cabinets than plywood or mdf or partical board.     

In other words - it's a myth. 

The euro cabinets I've used for near on three decades have 5/8 sides and 1/4 backs and we have had zero , repeat zero, failures in compression because of heavy tops.  Been using granite and concrete up to 8cm thick - you can do the math on the weight.

Solid backs are a waste of resources and energy when moving them.  Use 3/4 backs if it makes you feel better ,, but it's not necessary.  And if you want to argue the numbers, be sure you calculate in the unbalanced load on the front side because there is absolutely no support because of the drawers and doors.  And if you bring up face frames, then be sure you correctly calculate the weakness of the door and drawer openings and the weakness of the joints at the rails an stiles.

Like I said , if it makes you feel good to have a belt and suspenders fine.  Neither are necessary if your trousers are fit properly though.

 

[linnlp12]

Can you explain your statements on balancing?  I am building with 3/4 backs.  I don't understand the meanings of  your statements due to my inexperience. Thanks.

 

[Carpe Diem]

To clarify I am going to build frameless cabinets. Initially I was going to use ¼" pre finished maple plywood backs with ¾" nailers behind. Having said that I can't readily find ¼" prefinished maple. My supplier has ½" in pre finished so I picked some up along with some ¾" pre finished. When I got back to the shop the ½" was rotary cut (maybe) and definitely a different grade. It's appearance didn't really match the ¾".

Due to difference in appearance I was thinking why not just go with ¾" everywhere. The difference in price between ½" and ¾" was $25.00. If I was in a production setting a might think otherwise but for one kitchen I could handle the extra cost.

The plywood I purchased was domestically made and is Manufactured by Murphy Plywood. I would like to stay with a premium domestically made plywood.

If anyone can recommend a place in the greater Toronto area that has a good selection of pre finished maple plywood I would reconsider and use ¼" or ½" back with nailers.

 

[Carpe Diem]

Can you explain your statements on balancing?  I am building with 3/4 backs.  I don't understand the meanings of  your statements due to my inexperience. Thanks.

How are you joining your sides to the top and bottom decks? Also how are you attaching the backs?

 

[Getmaverick]

If you are stuck with 3/4 for the back you may need to adjust the depth of you uppers to compensate. You are loosing a 1/2" by using the 3/4. With standard 12" deep uppers your dinner plates etc... may not fit.

 

[peter halle]

Good point on the internal dimensions for dinner plates!

Personally I would go for the 1/2 material available to you.  Rotary cut won't be noticeable to most people (of course you will critique it more closely just like any of us would) once the cabinet is installed and filled.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Peter

 

[Jozsef Kozma]

We build 14"  uppers most of the time

 

[Carpe Diem]

I was planning on 13" uppers, therefore interior cabinet depth would be 11 ½" if I use ¾" backs set in ¾" from the rear edge.  My current cabinets have interior depth of 11".

 

[antss]

re: balanced - I'm talking about Sox's comment about cabs with 3/4" backs supporting more weight. 

The back would be marginally stronger supporting the compression forces with it , but the front of your cabinet will still be substantially unsupported in that plane because the doors and drawer openings offer no support to the compression loads caused by the counter tops.

Don't fret , it's nothing you need concern yourself with.  Your cabinets will be plenty supportive with 3/4" sides and a 1/4" back. Or a 1/2" back.  Or 5/8 " or.......

 

[w802h]

I've put 3/4 cabinet backs on uppers before.  It was a large cabinet.  The wall was way out of plumb and had a healthy scribe and a gap between the wall and cabinet.  I didn't want any flexing in the cabinet back.  I dominoed the back into the sides on that one. 

 

[LooseSox]

I might just clarify a bit more as well. The way euro cabinets are done in Australia (does that make them aussie cabinets?) solid backs are stronger built. I can't remember the last time I built a cabinet with a face frame and you'd be lucky to see 1 in every 10,000 (and I'm not exaggerating!) new kitchens built with face frames here so my input may be slightly skewed away from what you need.

 

[Laminator]

I have found using 3/4 backs simpler than the parts cutting and fabricating necessary for 1/4 backs. I think the white melamine or p-lam boxes look cleaner inside also.  I'm certainly not "in production" cabinet building and it surely makes the cabs heavier. 

My $0.02