Knife Handle

[Tinker]

I just picked up a knife blank (kit) from Woodcraft.  I had promised my daughter to get her a good Chef's Knife as the one she has broke where blade meets handle.  The kit i found at WoodCraft is reinforced at that point where flat blade steel meets the handle.  I decided I would get the kit and make my own wood handle. I think our daughter wood appreciate that much more than just picking out in the cutlery section of Williams and Sonoma.

My question is: What is the best wood to use for the handle?  The part for the handle is full length so the wood would be two pieces with 3 thru rivets. 

I have all sorts of scraps to pick from. 
The list:
Maple>soft and hard  I don't think maple fares so good with water immersion
Spalted Maple    NO WAY
Oak/White  The white oak is quarter sawn and my first choice at this point
Oak/Red      Plain sawn, but on small piece can be quarter sawn. Not as good as W. oak
Black Locust  This is very hard but too splintery I think. Splinters can be sharp and long
White Ash  great for shovel handles and baseball bats, but i am not so sure for a handle that accidentally goes into dish washer
Pine    great for workability, should give her backup pieces so she can make her own [unsure] when the soft wood breaks down.  Soak in oil maybe?
Zebra wood  interesting but much too splintery
Brazilian walnut  Extreme hardness but also prone to splintering along edges.  I got scraps of this from a siding job (other contractor on one of my jobs) It seems to have some sort of weather proofing impregnation.  Not sure about use around food preparation.
Cherry and Walnut  both are favorite woods, but not so sure about using for kitchen ware.
Birch  I can probably find a few pieces in the kindling pile
Sasafras  I love the smell and also the crackling and sparking when turns to fire wood in fire place.  Definitely not for a cutlery handle. Splintery

I am leaning towards White Oak at this point.  I am wondering if another wood would be MUCH better.  There are dozens of pen or other blanks for small turning projects that I could pick up at woodcraft(I would be doing final shaping with rasps). 
Tinker

 

[Holmz]

The harder the better... The zebra would be nice, cherry, maple... Why not sassafras?
If it is too slippery just make the handle with a texture to it.
They do that with checkering with rifle stocks, and the French fellow with veneer'ed table had some drawers that were highly figured n a deep texture. I have a snow saw that I made a rosewood handle for 30 years ago- If one uses it enough it looks good ike a hand polished railing.

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

I like the Brazilian Walnut(ipe) or black locust.  Both have a lot of natural tanons and will hold up to water really well.  Brazilian Cherry would work well.  After they are finished you will not have to worry about splinters being they are very hard woods.  I make a lot of chisel and file handles on the lathe out of Ipe, Brazilian cherry and black locust. 

I work with all three of these woods often.  We had a big out door project and used a lot of Brazilian Cherry so I have a lot of scraps of it laying around.  My cousins in Ohio had a Black Locust that they had sawn and the gave me some of it.  Ipe we used recently putting a ceiling in a clients bathrooms.

I made a end grain butcher block out of Brazilian Cherry a year ago, I put the scraps in a bucket of water for a week and the scraps with not swell at all.  It was pretty impressive.

 

[rmwarren]

[member=550]Tinker[/member] - I have used Bubinga, VERY hard, closed grain and beautiful. This knife has some pores that could use filling if you wanted a smoother surface,  I just hit it with mineral oil after use.

[attachthumb=1]

[attachthumb=2]

http://www.woodworkerssource.com/bubinga.html

I have a big slab of it, & can send you some scales if you tell me how big they need to be.

RMW

 

[tiralie]

My question is: What is the best wood to use for the handle? 

If I could I would use ebony. Not cheap but it's available in small quantities for knife handles.
Also Lignum vitae would be my choice if you like a non black handle.

Tim

 

[Cheese]

[member=550]Tinker[/member]
I think you need to set the ground rules...can she put it in the dishwasher or not?

That decision will eliminate some materials and elevate others to the forefront.

 

[Sparktrician]

[member=550]Tinker[/member]
I think you need to set the ground rules...can she put it in the dishwasher or not?

That decision will eliminate some materials and elevate others to the forefront.

Top-quality knives should NEVER be put in the washdisher!!!  [scared] 

 

[Tinker]

The harder the better... The zebra would be nice, cherry, maple... Why not sassafras?
If it is too slippery just make the handle with a texture to it.
They do that with checkering with rifle stocks, and the French fellow with veneer'ed table had some drawers that were highly figured n a deep texture. I have a snow saw that I made a rosewood handle for 30 years ago- If one uses it enough it looks good ike a hand polished railing.

@ Holmz
Thanks for your reply.  I used Zebra for a small project, maybe for a lazy susan, a couple of years ago.  It was very difficult to plane and had splintery edges.  I do have a small piece just about big enough to make the knife handle. 

the maple, cherry and sassafras i keep relating to durability for out side projects.  After i wrote, i thought lots to oil soaked into the handle and keep out of dish washer would be fine.  Besides, it's fr my daughter and if the whole thing falls apart, I will probably be the first to know.  That wood lead to more experience making handles. :
Tinker

 

[Hud]

Send the blank to be saturated

 

[Tinker]

[member=550]Tinker[/member]
I think you need to set the ground rules...can she put it in the dishwasher or not?

That decision will eliminate some materials and elevate others to the forefront.

Top-quality knives should NEVER be put in the washdisher!!!  [scared]

@ Sparktrician,
I have given her very strict orders for all of her cutlery to "DO NOT put knives in the dish washer. "

She will be be 50 in about two months. You know how it is with those old folks.  They never listen to us youngsters, even those of us who are only 39.  [wink]
Tinker

 

[Tinker]

My question is: What is the best wood to use for the handle? 

If I could I would use ebony. Not cheap but it's available in small quantities for knife handles.
Also Lignum vitae would be my choice if you like a non black handle.

Tim

Tim, i have a large knot (base of stump with 4 branch knobs coming together at the base.) out in my barn. It has been lying there for about 4 years.  I have been trying to come up with a fitting project.  The thing must weight close to 30 pounds.  Daughter has been going to weight (lifting) class for a couple of months so she can get into shape to lift and assist her 100# Yellow Lab to walk.  She has to lift the dog into the back seat of her car.  she sort of loads him in sections.  A handle made from 30#'s of Lignum vitae would keep her in fine shape 24/7. [big grin]

Tinker

 

[Tinker]

[member=550]Tinker[/member] - I have used Bubinga, VERY hard, closed grain and beautiful. This knife has some pores that could use filling if you wanted a smoother surface,  I just hit it with mineral oil after use.

[attachthumb=1]

[attachthumb=2]

http://www.woodworkerssource.com/bubinga.html

I have a big slab of it, & can send you some scales if you tell me how big they need to be.

RMW

@ RMW
Richard, I have not noticed any posts from you since you showed us your "EGG" all secured against the recent hurricane that never happened.  I hope the tie-downs held against those 20mph winds. How is your shop coming along? have you completed it yet so you are ready for winter?

I had thought of Bubinga.  A couple of other responders have had suggestions as well.
Tim Raleigh suggested Lignum vitae which I have a large chunk of and a great story to go with it. Brazilian Walnut and Black locust are also in my shop.  Both pieces have interesting (to me anyhow)to go along with them. 

I think the Bubinga looks a lot like the Brazillian walnut. Nice job BTW  Maybe not quite so dark. Of course, the Bubinga wood end up with another good story to go with it. Thanks for the offer.

I am thinking of a lamination of a couple of the woods I have already in the scrap piles.  I am slowly using up the piles so I can find places to put my feet without bumping my knees against my chin when I walk from one end of my shop to the other.
Tinker

 

[Tinker]

I like the Brazilian Walnut(ipe) or black locust.  Both have a lot of natural tanons and will hold up to water really well.  Brazilian Cherry would work well.  After they are finished you will not have to worry about splinters being they are very hard woods.  I make a lot of chisel and file handles on the lathe out of Ipe, Brazilian cherry and black locust. 

I work with all three of these woods often.  We had a big out door project and used a lot of Brazilian Cherry so I have a lot of scraps of it laying around.  My cousins in Ohio had a Black Locust that they had sawn and the gave me some of it.  Ipe we used recently putting a ceiling in a clients bathrooms.

I made a end grain butcher block out of Brazilian Cherry a year ago, I put the scraps in a bucket of water for a week and the scraps with not swell at all.  It was pretty impressive.

Tyler, I got the Brazilian walnut as cutoffs from a swimming pool project.  I was the landscaper on the job.  The pool house was sided with it and there was an indoor hot tub that was made using it for the entire outside and surrounding deck.  I got maybe 20 feet of 1x6. The to-the-weather surface seems to have been coated with some kind of oil finish.  Or is that just the nature of the wood? 

I also have a fairly large piece of Black locust that I am saving for a larger project.  That stuff is very tough.
Tinker
Tinker

 

[Tinker]

Hey Guys,
Thanks for all of the suggestions.
Now, what wood be the best glue to use.  I am thinking some kind of epoxy.  I have not used that stuff in maybe 40 years.  That was on a dairy floor and was trowel on consistency. Not the greatest for a knife handle. :

Tinker

 

[rmwarren]

@ RMW
Richard, I have not noticed any posts from you since you showed us your "EGG" all secured against the recent hurricane that never happened.  I hope the tie-downs held against those 20mph winds. How is your shop coming along? have you completed it yet so you are ready for winter?

[member=550]Tinker[/member] - thanks, yes, the egg weathered the storm, and has been freed of it's bonds and pressed back into service. Thankfully all we got was 4 days of NE winds gusting to around 50MPH.

The shop project got waylaid by the boss, it seems that 4-5 months to complete the utility room was too long in her view, so I spent last weekend finishing the countertop and installing the sink. Picture if you can half of a middle-aged fat guy sticking out of the corner cabinet with profanity reverberating off the walls as he tries to tighten those stupid sink clamps...

[attachthumb=1]

I have a few cabinet doors to finish and that project will be done and then I get to go back to playing with my projects, i.e. paneling the shop walls, french cleats, new lights and heat.

Hope you are well, plowing season is just around the corner. Let me know if you want some Bubinga to add to your collection.

RMW

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

I like the Brazilian Walnut(ipe) or black locust.  Both have a lot of natural tanons and will hold up to water really well.  Brazilian Cherry would work well.  After they are finished you will not have to worry about splinters being they are very hard woods.  I make a lot of chisel and file handles on the lathe out of Ipe, Brazilian cherry and black locust. 

I work with all three of these woods often.  We had a big out door project and used a lot of Brazilian Cherry so I have a lot of scraps of it laying around.  My cousins in Ohio had a Black Locust that they had sawn and the gave me some of it.  Ipe we used recently putting a ceiling in a clients bathrooms.

I made a end grain butcher block out of Brazilian Cherry a year ago, I put the scraps in a bucket of water for a week and the scraps with not swell at all.  It was pretty impressive.

Tyler, I got the Brazilian walnut as cutoffs from a swimming pool project.  I was the landscaper on the job.  The pool house was sided with it and there was an indoor hot tub that was made using it for the entire outside and surrounding deck.  I got maybe 20 feet of 1x6. The to-the-weather surface seems to have been coated with some kind of oil finish.  Or is that just the nature of the wood? 

I also have a fairly large piece of Black locust that I am saving for a larger project.  That stuff is very tough.
Tinker
Tinker

They might have put a product like Penofin on the ipe to finish it.  Ipe has a lime green dust on it when it's not finished.  Be careful when working with the ipe its allergy prone wood.  I always wear a mask even with dust collection and take allergy medicine before working with it. 

Black locus is a crazy wood.  It's interlocking twisting grain is a pain in the butt to work with.  I had abut 100 bdft and started planing it down and blew up my portable planer.  I ended up making a work bench out of it.

I made a few knifes for my dad using the Woodcraft kits.  I used epoxy from Home Depot.  I think I used the 5min. 

 

[Tinker]

>>>The shop project got waylaid by the boss, it seems that 4-5 months to complete the utility room was too long in her view, so I spent last weekend finishing the countertop and installing the sink. Picture if you can half of a middle-aged fat guy sticking out of the corner cabinet with profanity reverberating off the walls as he tries to tighten those stupid sink clamps...

 

[Tinker]

Quote>>> They might have put a product like Penofin on the ipe to finish it.  Ipe has a lime green dust on it when it's not finished.  Be careful when working with the ipe its allergy prone wood.  I always wear a mask even with dust collection and take allergy medicine before working with it.

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

Penofin is a oil made for IpE.  Penofin is made from crushed rosewood seeds.  The good news about ipe is that being that it's soooo hard and all the tanons the oil didn't penetrate too deep.  After doing some cuts look in you vac hose,  it's really cool seeing lime green saw dust. 

 

[jacko9]

Buy her a quality forged knife from an excellent maker,

http://www.teruyasu.net

I have a few of his knives and they are excellent.

Jack