Lacing-in Hardwood Floors

[skids]

Ok I have a question on the execution of lacing in existing hardwood to new hardwood. Question is where do you start in the house?

In other words, do you start with the lace -in then work your way to the wall? Or do you still start at the largest wall and work your way into where you are lacing in?

I have two spots that will be laced in, the opening to the dining room and opening to the living room. Both of which are basically towards the middle of the house. I am having trouble imagining how I would measure accurately enough to get the seams to line up with these two openings if I start at the wall without measuring after each board I lay down and shaving the boards little by little as I go to hide it.

I really want to tackle this hardwood project on my own, but the fact I want to lace-in is the most difficult piece of the project and I flat out refuse to keep the transition strip in. I should also mention the down stairs is filled with cabinets, an island, closets, fireplace, staircase you name it. Going to be lots of cuts. Thinking a pro would lay it out best, but want to try my hand at hardwood install and leave the sand/finish to a pro.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I'm not sure I understand the exact layout.  Are you trying to lace in on both ends?  As in fill empty space with new flooring between the living room and dining room?

 

[skids]

I'm not sure I understand the exact layout.  Are you trying to lace in on both ends?  As in fill empty space with new flooring between the living room and dining room?

Ok so picture you are God..You're up in the sky looking down on this project.

What you see from above this project is a rectangle, and the far right 1/3 of the rectangle has site finished hardwood in it already. I want to carry the hardwood to the remaining 2/3rds of the home moving left. There are two entry ways into the rooms that have the hardwood in it, it's at those entry ways it's transitions to tile.

It is here I have to lace in new into old. Make sense? Probably not, a sketchup would be nice.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I think I got it except, what are you left with where the flooring ends?  Is it a straight cut ends of flooring or is a toothed, staggered ends?  Either way this is a pretty easy to work with, assuming I understand what you've got.  Stretch a string along a row of flooring into the new space. 
[attachthumb=#]

Then screw a straight piece of plywood the length of the remaining space.  The straight edge will allow you run the new flooring perfectly with the old.  You will need to reverse the couple of courses to finish.  Make your own spline, insert it into the groove of the floor to reverse the last few rows. 
[attachthumb=#] 

 

[dicktill]

If you are lacing them in the way that Brice has shown, be very careful with the width of the new vs. old boards. If they vary just a little bit, say 1/64", then the boards will start to "crab" over. Read about this happening to someone else, so when I had to do it in several rooms, I either used "reclaimed" boards that I'd already pulled up elsewhere (but matched the ones I was lacing into), OR ran a couple of boards perpendicular, then started the new boards cleanly by themselves.

Good luck, Dick

 

[skids]

I think I got it except, what are you left with where the flooring ends?  Is it a straight cut ends of flooring or is a toothed, staggered ends?  Either way this is a pretty easy to work with, assuming I understand what you've got.  Stretch a string along a row of flooring into the new space. 
[attachthumb=#]

Then screw a straight piece of plywood the length of the remaining space.  The straight edge will allow you run the new flooring perfectly with the old.  You will need to reverse the couple of courses to finish.  Make your own spline, insert it into the groove of the floor to reverse the last few rows. 
[attachthumb=#] 

Genius...Although, assuming I understand this correctly..What you are suggesting has me starting the project at the areas I need to lace (there are two openings), and not at the traditional spot you would start your floor layout which is the longest wall. I personally don't see why it matters, but this is what I've read. You start at a wall and work your way into the room. IN my application, and based on what your suggesting, your basically using the existing courses of flooring that were already laid out, as your reference?

Let me see if I can snap a shot or two of this. Thanks BTW for taking the time to sketch that. Super helpful.

 

[skids]

If you are lacing them in the way that Brice has shown, be very careful with the width of the new vs. old boards. If they vary just a little bit, say 1/64", then the boards will start to "crab" over. Read about this happening to someone else, so when I had to do it in several rooms, I either used "reclaimed" boards that I'd already pulled up elsewhere (but matched the ones I was lacing into), OR ran a couple of boards perpendicular, then started the new boards cleanly by themselves.

Good luck, Dick

Yes, it's a valid point..But I went to the trouble to find out what kind of wood and who manfactured it by the installer. So assuming his memory is decent, it's a Cumberland white oak, which is good stuff. I won't know if it's red or white for sure though until I pull a piece out and check the cell structure of the wood. I am fairly certain it's white, but the finish on it is a crappy hadco finish which is so ambered out some boards look red. sigh..

 

[skids]

Ok here are two shots which should give you an idea of what I am facing and all the obstacles in my way. As you can see one opening is towards the front of the house and the other smaller opening is towards the rear of the house. Hopefully this sheds some light.

 

[dicktill]

Looks like there's already a board or two perpendicular across the thresholds. I'd leave it that way and not lace. Worked well for me and looks good IMHO.

 

[skids]

Looks like there's already a board or two perpendicular across the thresholds. I'd leave it that way and not lace. Worked well for me and looks good IMHO.

I don't want it, it ruins the flow from room to room IMO. I am picky. Sorry.  [wink]

 

[builderbob]

Have you considered any sort of inlay anywhere that could break up the chance for boards not meeting up?  Sounds great to me!  If not in the kitchen, then how about the other room?

 

[skids]

Have you considered any sort of inlay anywhere that could break up the chance for boards not meeting up?  Sounds great to me!  If not in the kitchen, then how about the other room?

Possibly..The only inlays I have given any thought to was in the living room dining or around the hearth in Walnut. Wife doesn't like that idea but screw her....

IT's a good suggestion but I would have to look at more pics of inlays to know what could work on those locations and whether this house can handle inlays. I have Charlie Peterson book (he lives down your way actually)..It has some amazing pictures of flooring.

 

[PSullivan]

Keeping threshold in place and continuing new wood in line with original will save you a lot of work and possible headaches.  If the new wood is slightly off in dimension, you will have a hard time lacing  it in.  From one room to the next it will look great if they all line up.

 

[skids]

Keeping threshold in place and continuing new wood in line with original will save you a lot of work and possible headaches.  If the new wood is slightly off in dimension, you will have a hard time lacing  it in.  From one room to the next it will look great if they all line up.

I hear ya..But I have had a few flooring guys quote me prices and said it can be done. It's really a must for me, I hate that transition strip. I guess if I HAD to do it I could get over it eventually.

 

[builderbob]

Keeping threshold in place and continuing new wood in line with original will save you a lot of work and possible headaches.  If the new wood is slightly off in dimension, you will have a hard time lacing  it in.  From one room to the next it will look great if they all line up.

I hear ya..But I have had a few flooring guys quote me prices and said it can be done. It's really a must for me, I hate that transition strip. I guess if I HAD to do it I could get over it eventually.

Don't keep em...when we bought our house, I tore out the foam backed carpet in our kitchen (narsty). I put down white oak to match the rest of the house and put up a perpendicular strip. I did it out of haste and also the ends of those boards were quite separated from not being fastened so well in the 50's. To this day, I hate it.  I'll wait till I redo the kitchen in 25 years to deal with it again!  But don't leave them!