Large work table finally started

[gkeas]

I've been working on a design for a  larger cutting table/ sysport for almost as long as I've been posting on this site.  I finally came up with one and started it a couple of weeks ago.  I got the base assembled last night and put my tools in the drawers.  The top will be a full 4'x8' sheet, and I may edge it with some scrap hardwood.

I still need to attach the top, and I do plan on drilling it (mft style), but I haven't decided how I want to do it.  I have a 20mm boring bit and the LR32 sys, but I may use my MFT top as a template and plunge/copy it, instead.

The back side of the base is a mirror image, although I only have 3 of the systainer drawers on that side.  I'm debating putting shelves/drawers/doors in the 4 extra bays.  The two halves are seperated by 17" wide shelves that run the length of the table. I'll use those for lumber storage or guide rails or something.  really there to create the extra width more than anything.

The spaces above the drawers will serve two purposes.  I left the room for clamping from below, but I will also have a 4' pull out mdf slide that attaches to each gable for use with the parallel guide set.   They will pull out about 33" and will allow for working with material anywhere from 16" to 9' in length.

I'll post additional pictures as I progress.

 

[lumbajac]

Garry - I really like your table.  Been contemplating a table/storage system myself and this is a great starting point for me.  Thanks for posting and your description.  Nice work.

 

[NVA_WW]

I noticed you added wheels to your table.  Did you add some wheels in the middle for support?  I would guess you might have some sagging after a while. 

I think it's great idea to have all your Festool gear right under your work table.

 

[gkeas]

Thanks for the replies.  I didn't add casters to the middle, yet, but I actually talked about that with my buddy today.  I think I will add a pair to the middle of each "side"  for some preventative measure.  It is QUITE heavy, but very mobile, so it could sag over time.  Right now it's pretty flat, but not "torsion box flat".  I gleaned many ideas from this forum, and added a few of my own, so I think it will work very well for me.  Having said that, I already have recognized shortcomings and things I would "do over" on the next revision.  Now I have to build some more stuff....

 

[Jeff Hein]

Gary,

Your table looks nice!

I am thinking of building something similar.

What kind of stuff would you change (after having built it)?

Thanks!

 

[Roseland]

Nice looking table.

You mention two ways to drill the top MFT-style, boring and plunge/copying.  I've made two tops for my bench and tried both these methods. 

Boring worked OK, but it was difficult getting the holes perfectly vertical, even using a jig. 

In the end I found the best way was to clamp an existing MFT top to the new bench top as a template, and drill half-inch holes before using a router and copy bit to clean up the hole to 20mm.

My new bench is bigger than an MFT, so as I stepped it across, I used three 20mm wooden dowels to register the 'template' to holes I had previously made.

I have a number of strips of planed 2 inch by 1 inch, the width of the table, that have pegs that locate into the top as stand-offs.  When using the table for cutting down full sized sheets I drop these onto the table top, and can safely cut through a panel knowing that I won't mar the bench top.

Andrew

 

[gkeas]

Gary,

Your table looks nice!

I am thinking of building something similar.

What kind of stuff would you change (after having built it)?

Thanks!

Thanks.  I didn't need quite as much space for the systainers (about 2" extra) and I should have used that for the space immediately below the top for easier clamping.  I would also make the other side deeper (currently its 370mm, just like the front) with shelf holes, drawers, doors, or something.  Other than that, I think I'll be quite happy with the outcome.

 

[gkeas]

Nice looking table.

You mention two ways to drill the top MFT-style, boring and plunge/copying.  I've made two tops for my bench and tried both these methods. 

Boring worked OK, but it was difficult getting the holes perfectly vertical, even using a jig. 

In the end I found the best way was to clamp an existing MFT top to the new bench top as a template, and drill half-inch holes before using a router and copy bit to clean up the hole to 20mm.

My new bench is bigger than an MFT, so as I stepped it across, I used three 20mm wooden dowels to register the 'template' to holes I had previously made.

I have a number of strips of planed 2 inch by 1 inch, the width of the table, that have pegs that locate into the top as stand-offs.  When using the table for cutting down full sized sheets I drop these onto the table top, and can safely cut through a panel knowing that I won't mar the bench top.

Andrew

I suspect that will be the route I take.  I have a large piece of foam board I'll use on top for cutting.

 

[fritter63]

Nice looking table Gary.

One thing to consider though...

I built something this size at our first house in Denver 20 years ago. It wasn't a sysport type of thing, but basically an 8 foot
cabinet with drawers and a regular counter top on it.

When we sold the house and moved up to a larger house (driven of course, by my desire for a larger basement/woodshop), I left behind....

Why? Because I was too large to go up the basement stairs!

So, hopefully your either long term stable in your house, or you have a walkout basement!

I've just moved too many times (on our fourth house now) and 1000 miles to boot (not fun with a full woodshop!) so I always tend to
think about moveability now...

 

[gkeas]

Nice looking table Gary.

One thing to consider though...

I built something this size at our first house in Denver 20 years ago. It wasn't a sysport type of thing, but basically an 8 foot
cabinet with drawers and a regular counter top on it.

When we sold the house and moved up to a larger house (driven of course, by my desire for a larger basement/woodshop), I left behind....

Why? Because I was too large to go up the basement stairs!

So, hopefully your either long term stable in your house, or you have a walkout basement!

I've just moved too many times (on our fourth house now) and 1000 miles to boot (not fun with a full woodshop!) so I always tend to
think about moveability now...

Our basement is a walkout, but I still designed the Table such that the two halves can be dismantled for moving (the top and the center shelf/dividers are removable).  We've moved too many times to make something that large "permanent".

 

[halis]

Hello Guys,

I have been reading this forum for a long time now, being an amateur woodworker as well.
I am currently looking to build a comparable work table and Gary, I must say that I find your design very appealing.

I was wondering what you guys consider as a comfortable working height for your tables.

Vincent

 

[gkeas]

Hello Guys,

I have been reading this forum for a long time now, being an amateur woodworker as well.
I am currently looking to build a comparable work table and Gary, I must say that I find your design very appealing.

I was wondering what you guys consider as a comfortable working height for your tables.

Vincent

I'm a little taller than average (6'3") and I found the MFT was too low for me.  My back would start to hurt after a couple of hours.  I put it on a mobile base that raised it up to 40 1/8" (that exact height came about from an old design I had for a cabinet to go under the MFT that I never actually built).  I find this much more comfortable and don't get nearly as sore.

 

[BobKovacs]

Like Gary, I'm 6'4", and most worksurfaces, including the MFT, are too low for me.  I've found anywhere from 39-42" works about right in my case.

 

[halis]

Thank you for the tip, I guess I will go for 40" which is more or less 1 meter here in belgium