Leitz blades offered by Harvey woodworking

[jcrowe1950]

Howdy Folks,

    I just received an email from Harvey touting their Leitz Destroyer 10" table saw blades. Leitz is the company that has made blades for at least the TS 75 and TS 55. The company certainly uses some interesting techniques to enhance blade performance and actually reduce noise. Worth a look in any case.

 

[Peter Kelly]

Are these Chinese blades?

 

[jcrowe1950]

Are these Chinese blades?

    I think they are made in Germany.....the Festool/Leitz blades certainly are. This is a collaboration between Harvey and Leitz and they are not available in Europe, I suppose due to licensing agreements. I'd love to hear a review if anybody here gets one...the rip blade and cross cut blades are reasonable and sort of interesting tooth geometry. The plywood/melamine blade is a little bit pricey for my uses. Here's a link to the description....https://www.harveywoodworking.com/products/destroyer-blades?variant=40800713277623

 

[Cheese]

I'd think the saw blade would have the country of manufacture laser marked on it.

Leitz does have a manufacturing plant in China.  [sad]

 

[tjbnwi]

I have all 3 of the Leitz Harvey blades.

Great blades, the rip blade does not burn maple.

I could not find the COO on the blade or packaging.

Tom

 

[jcrowe1950]

I have all 3 of the Leitz Harvey blades.

Great blades, the rip blade does not burn maple.

I could not find the COO on the blade or packaging.

Tom

Hi Tom, et al,

    I just received the rip blade today and could not resist doing a minor test run. I had some 8/4 maple, with some quilting, that I was using to make some laminated table legs. I had rough cut the stock with a Freud heavy duty rip blade..24 tooth flat grind. There was some burning and saw marks, though admittedly the blade needs a good cleaning. The Harvey blade had no burning and was pretty impressive on the first, admittedly quick, cuts. It actually reminds me of the performance of the Freud Glue Line Rip blade when new, but I typically did not use the Freud on very thick stock. I think this blade will find a place in my rotation......and, nowhere on the packaging or on the blade itself could I find any COO information......that said, it's pretty impressive regardless of COO.

 

[ChuckM]

SawStop users should avoid using rip blades with a hump.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Cheese]

SawStop users should avoid using rip blades with a hump.

Why is that Chuck?

 

[ChuckM]

I was looking to buy a Freud 24T ripping blade (seen used by SawStop users in some YouTube videos), but to be sure, I wrote to SawStop about it. The technical advisor wrote back telling me I should avoid all blades with a hump or anti-kickback feature because such feature would slow down the stopping of the blade in the case the brake cartridge is activated.

As a result, I've ordered a WWII 20T  (24T?) ripping blade instead.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Cheese]

I was looking to buy a Freud 24T ripping blade (seen used by SawStop users in some YouTube videos), but to be sure, I wrote to SawStop about it. The technical advisor wrote back telling me I should avoid all blades with a hump or anti-kickback feature because such feature would slow down the stopping of blade in the case the brake cartridge is activated.

As a result, I've ordered a WWII 20T  (24T?) ripping blade instead.

That makes sense...it's a SawStop velocity/inertia/energy thing. I get that. I have the WWII in a 30 tooth version and it's a great blade.

 

[ChuckM]

I already have the 30T, and because mine is a PCS 1.75HP, it struggles when the board is long and over 2-1/2" thick.

One time, I had a few boards close to 3" thick, and I had to rip half way in depth, then raise the blade and make a second pass to complete it. Not good. (The ICS 5HP 230V (480V?) that I previously had access to didn't slow down even when I ripped with a 40T blade.)

 

[Cheese]

I have a Bosch 4100 and I like it a lot but it could use some more HP.  [smile]  However, after becoming a true-believer with the track saw, I find I use the table saw less & less. Anything 2" and less is ripped with the track saw and if I were to venture out into the 3" category, I'd probably just purchase a TS 75 or a Mafell K 85.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I don't know if I buy that or not? As a guy who works in a shop full of guys who seem to be testing for the limit of how many times a Saw Stop can actually be set off and still remain functional, I would bet that it wouldn't matter. In the last 5 or 6 years that we have had them in the shop, I can absolutely guarantee that I have replaced at least 50 cartridges. I would bet that estimate is light. There have been times that I have replaced it twice in the same day! Then it will go fine for months.....and someone will do it again. We buy them 6 at a time, when stock gets down to 2.
That is spread over 6 different saws and more than 5 years. I have seen them in all kinds of different blades and surprisingly different depths of penetration. (never have figured out why?) Sometimes the blade will come back out fairly easily. We get them tested by the sharpener and repaired. Other times, not so much, and the blade doesn't survive it.

 

[ChuckM]

I don't know if I buy that or not? Snip.

You don't have to, but SawStop is protected against claims if the brake performance doesn't deliver the necessary protection due to the blade not conforming to its recommendations, such as not using thin kerf blades (thinner than 3/32").

This is from their website:

[attachimg=1]

In my shop, I follow SawStop's advice. I value my fingers more than a couple hundred dollars saved on blades.