Live edge Walnut table

J

jond

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2011
Messages
21
I'm getting really antsy for my next project.  This giant slab of walnut is currently drying in a kiln, hopefully I can get it in another 4 weeks or so...

A few questions:

If I kept it at its full dimensions I wouldn't be able to get it through the drum sander here in town (50" max).  Would it be terrible to cut down one of the live edges to bring it closer to dining table width anyhow?  It might make the piece more interesting if 3 edges were square perhaps?

What are my options if I want to surface the top myself?  Ie no giant drum sander?

Let me know if anyone has input on legs, I have some time to noodle on them since the top won't be ready for a while...
 
Here's a live edge entertainment unit that I did - http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/live-edge-tv-entertainment-stand/

I had the lumberyard put it through their wide-belt sander.  This was a a piece that was originally 3' wide that i cut down after it was sanded.  This was my first experience with live edge so I used a wire brush in my Festool drill to carefully remove dirt and loose bark from the live edge.  I was fortunate to not have any damaged live edge on my piece that would have required carving or shaping to clean up.  I can't tell if you will be that lucky.

I suppose you could create a router sled to span the top and go back and forth over it with a router bit.  It's a fair amount of work, but an option to get it down to a consistent thickness if you cannot find a wide belt wide enough.  You could also rip the piece and run it through a wide belt in two passes and then glue / domino back together. You could get a pretty close match but still allow consistent thickness as an option.

Here is a Fine Woodworking overview with Nick Offerman of Parks and Recreation on how to flatten a slab - http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/level-big-slabs-in-no-time-flat.aspx

In my case, I took the piece of Bubinga from the wide belt and did progressive sanding with a rotex from 120 down to 400 grit.  It has a oil and wax finish and has held up well.

As to legs, I think you will need something pretty substantial to hold a dining table size slab.  I chose to use dominoed Wenge pieces on each end of what I did, but I could envision Walnut pieces in your case.  If you could find something from the same tree and cut it down, it would be a terrific piece from a color match standpoint.  

If it is meant to be a dining table, I'd try to preserve the live edge on both sides rather than cutting one off.  I just think it will look better.  And it preserves the spirit of the piece.

Please share photos as you progress.

neil
 
Router sled or hand planes would be your best bet in my experience.  Actually a #5 Bailey's set up as a scrub and a #7 for jointing would be your best bet.
You could use a power plane, but you would probably still want a #7 to bring it totally flat.
 
Is there any twist in the piece?  How consistent is the thickness?

Come to mention it, I have heard about floor sanders (the circular ones) being used on slabs.  I forgot but the lumber yard that did my piece (Owl Hardwoods in Chicago) had a slab that was over 6' wide and they used a floor sander since it was a relatively consistent thickness.

Do you have access to Fine Woodworking and the jig I linked to?  It's certainly an option.

Given what you will have in the wood, I'd just proceed carefully.  It has the potential to be beautiful, so glad you are exploring options.

neil

 
I just finished 4 live edge shelves and they where 24" wide and needed flattening. Used the occasion to buy a low angle Lie Nielsen plane and it worked beautifully. Finished off the top with 80 and 120 grit on my ETS 150. Then a couple of coats of Osmo oil and got a great finish.

I would keep both live edge as they look really nice once you take off the bark. I chisel most of it off carefully then followed up with a wire brush. Then used the RO 90 with an interface pad with great results.
 
I am not a hand plane guy but can see that they would possibly be a solution.  I was thinking about the router sled set up as someone posted.  Whatever you do - please keep the lives edges. Leaving them only on one side will in my feelings ruin the sensuality of the flow of the piece.

Godspeed!

Peter
 
Here are some pics to give you some ideas.  You could rip the slab in half, run it through a sander, and glue it back together with a piece of contrasting wood in between.  This is a slab of rosewood (from the Martin Guitar factory's lumber yard, circa 1975) with a piece of red oak in the middle.  For legs, you might want to try a Nakashima-style pedestal base with angled bridle-joints lap joints.  (Yup, all those trestle pieces run through each other.)  My late stepfather made this one.  There's a story behind these pics, but maybe that's for another thread.

 
The router sled will work perfectly -- just do a search on YouTube and you will see several examples of sleds.  There is even one on FOG using the MFS profiles and sled.  The Wood Whisperer has a video on using one to flatten a bench and walks you through the process of building the jig and determining parallel if you are not starting from a flat surface like MFT tables or something.  You can buy big straight bits to use in the process too for not a ton of money -- I am thinking about getting a two inch size specifically for this purpose.  Of course hand planes work well too, but more of a workout (of course no need to sand after and quiet).

Scot 
 
neilc said:
Here's a live edge entertainment unit that I did - http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/live-edge-tv-entertainment-stand/

I had the lumberyard put it through their wide-belt sander.  This was a a piece that was originally 3' wide that i cut down after it was sanded.  This was my first experience with live edge so I used a wire brush in my Festool drill to carefully remove dirt and loose bark from the live edge.  I was fortunate to not have any damaged live edge on my piece that would have required carving or shaping to clean up.  I can't tell if you will be that lucky.

I suppose you could create a router sled to span the top and go back and forth over it with a router bit.  It's a fair amount of work, but an option to get it down to a consistent thickness if you cannot find a wide belt wide enough.  You could also rip the piece and run it through a wide belt in two passes and then glue / domino back together. You could get a pretty close match but still allow consistent thickness as an option.

Here is a Fine Woodworking overview with Nick Offerman of Parks and Recreation on how to flatten a slab - http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/level-big-slabs-in-no-time-flat.aspx

In my case, I took the piece of Bubinga from the wide belt and did progressive sanding with a rotex from 120 down to 400 grit.  It has a oil and wax finish and has held up well.

As to legs, I think you will need something pretty substantial to hold a dining table size slab.  I chose to use dominoed Wenge pieces on each end of what I did, but I could envision Walnut pieces in your case.  If you could find something from the same tree and cut it down, it would be a terrific piece from a color match standpoint.  

If it is meant to be a dining table, I'd try to preserve the live edge on both sides rather than cutting one off.  I just think it will look better.  And it preserves the spirit of the piece.

Please share photos as you progress.

neil
Click to expand...

Neil -- thanks for posting a link to your table -- not sure how I missed it originally, but I really enjoyed seeing the pics -- beautiful piece!

Scot
 
Thanks Scot -

First time I ever did live edge and was really pleased with how it turned out.  Live edge just adds so much to a piece!

neil
 
Another vote for the sled approach. I used this technique on my coffee table top, being  burl ucalyptus the grain was very random so I finished with scrapers.

Euc_Top2.JPG


Rob.
 
Rob,

That is gorgeous!  All these posts are making me want to make a live-edge table!  There are some beautiful slabs at one of my wood suppliers...hmmm.

Scot
 
I think you should dye whatever wood you use for the legs black so it doesn't take anything away from the top.
If you did use walnut from the same tree or very close it might work but I think it will take the viewers eyes away from the masterpiece.
 
Here's the best instructional video on the subject of using a sled and router for your size slab. 
From the Wood Whisperer...

Flattening Workbenches and Wide Boards With A Router
 
ScotF said:
Rob,

That is gorgeous!  All these posts are making me want to make a live-edge table!  There are some beautiful slabs at one of my wood suppliers...hmmm.

Scot
Click to expand...
woodguy7 said:
Lovely top Rob.  Any pics of the legs ?
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, I don't have a pic of the finished leg but it is a section of the drum for this outer string for a spiral stair that I used and veneered with oak .

137.JPG


Rob.
 
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