Long bevel cuts over 45 degrees with track saw

LarsG

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Joined
Jan 11, 2021
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3
Hi FOG.

I am building wardrobe cabinets from veneered mdf. They slope down in the back to fit under a ceiling so I need to make some long bevel cuts to join the back panel and top panel nicely.
I need to rip 1000 mm sheets with 70 degree bevel cuts.

Any ideas on how to do this?
 
Place spoil board along edge of MFT(s), stand the sheet on edge, clamp to MFT(s) with the edge of the sheet aligned to the top of the MFT, rip at 30º.

Tom
 

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That’s really clever. I was thinking as I as looking at the photos how easy that cut would be with a table saw.
 
Just realized I need to get the table up pretty high 1.6 meters since it is the short end that needs the bevel.
If anyone has an idea to cut the sheet upright let me know. ;-)
 
Since you are doing this on the ends of long boards, you might try making a wedge to hold your track tilted up on and an angle. This may not be the easiest way to handle the saw though? Any chance that you have the parallel guide accessory for the saw to help stabilize it during the cut?

I think I would stick to the original recommendation of cutting from the edge rather than the face. You just need to figure out how to hold the workpiece and stabilize the whole thing.
 
Make an open ended box long enough to span the edge to be cut.
Support the ply on the top side of the box and clamp the guide rail to a vertical side.

Make a support or two the same height as the box for the rest of the panel and place everything on a worktable (could be another sheet of ply on horses).

It will be a little tricky to guide the saw without twisting it.

You’ll also need to make a caul to span the business edge of the ply and clamp it tight to the box.
 
Reverse the sheet and rail. Put the sheet on the table, clamp your rail to the side, if your table allows for such arrangement.
Although, at this point it gets so awkward that I'd just use router and a small jig to slide along to make that taper. Similar to a scarf joint jig.
 
Birdhunter said:
That’s really clever. I was thinking as I as looking at the photos how easy that cut would be with a table saw.

Not very easy. I've done it and due to various factors it does not work well. This entire setup and cut took less than 2 minutes.

Tom
 
LarsG said:
Just realized I need to get the table up pretty high 1.6 meters since it is the short end that needs the bevel.
If anyone has an idea to cut the sheet upright let me know. ;-)

Clamp a support shelf to the panel. Make sure the panel is well supported as you'll be working on a ladder most likely (I'm a little nuts so I'd do this with the panel on its long edge and cut down on the short edge.....).

No different then when you need to cut a reversed bevel on casework. All this ever comes down to is thinking through supporting the rail. (The rail was clamped, sorry no pics of the clamps in place. The QG's are just holding the case stable)

Savr's idea would work well also.

Tom
 

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tjbnwi said:
Place spoil board along edge of MFT(s), stand the sheet on edge, clamp to MFT(s) with the edge of the sheet aligned to the top of the MFT, rip at 30º.

Tom

Umm, if he wants a 70 degree bevel on his sheet shouldn’t he rip at 20 degrees, or am I missing something??

Thanks for a great tip, this is a neat trick to have in the bag.
 
Vtshopdog said:
tjbnwi said:
Place spoil board along edge of MFT(s), stand the sheet on edge, clamp to MFT(s) with the edge of the sheet aligned to the top of the MFT, rip at 30º.

Tom

Umm, if he wants a 70 degree bevel on his sheet shouldn’t he rip at 20 degrees, or am I missing something??

Thanks for a great tip, this is a neat trick to have in the bag.

You’re not missing anything. Sometimes my 6th grade education fails me......

Thank you for catching this.

Tom
 
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