Longer 10mmm cutter for the Domino 500

[dhoover1027]

Hi Everyone
I’m planning a bench out of 2” Ash and it will be heavy. And the leggings lean out a bit, so I’m concerned with left and right movement.
So, I’d like to use 10mm domino’s that are longer than 10x50.
I can use DF700 10mm dominos, but want go deeper than the DF500 dominos.
And avoid the expense of a DF700.
Any custom cutter makers ?
Or ideas?
Probably be difficult liming the Domino 500 lined up.
Thanks, Doug

 

[luvmytoolz]

Noooooooooooo!

While it might in theory work, aside from the stick out issue, using the DF700 cutter will not only dramatically increase the width of the slot due to the much increased arc, but would also potentially strain or even damage the DF500 mechanism.

You'd be better off doing what others commonly do, which is to drill it out after cutting the slot.

 

[Crispy]

You could use a router to plunge the hole deeper after using the 500 to cut it, i think i read that one one of the threads/forums here

 

[dhoover1027]

I know I can’t use the Domno 700.

I like the idea of the router.

Thanks, Doug

 

[mino]

Why not use 12 or 16 mm dowels cut from bars? All it takes is one high-quality drill bit in a drill guide that is useful anyway and a bit of fiddling.

Or even an actual tenon-mortise joint using a chisel?

Or an inset joint with smaller dominoes where the inset is what carries the load instead of the tenon.

Or ... etc.

It is all so tempting to treat everything as a nail, erm, a floating tenon joint, when one has a hammer, erm, DOMINO in hand. So easy to forget the DOMINO is about speed/efficiency.

Once outside the tool capabilities, no reason to stick to its approach of a floating tenon .. only to complicate one's life.

 

[dhoover1027]

I have zero hand tool skills.
My motto seems to be “get a larger hammer”
Having a recent vitreous detach in both eyes I’m curious how this first project will go. If at all.

Doug

 

[smorgasbord]

So easy to forget the DOMINO is about speed/efficiency.

Once outside the tool capabilities, no reason to stick to its approach of a floating tenon .. only to complicate one's life.

I'm going to second this (as well as [member=75933]luvmytoolz[/member] 's "Noooooooooooo!" for putting the bigger bit in the DF500). The whole point of the Domino is ease of use. If it doesn't cut the mortise you want, use something else. Unless the piece you're joining have something special in terms of alignment (like offsets or angles, etc.) just use dowels. Heck, they even make dowel centers that let you drill one piece, and insert the centers to mark the center for drilling the other piece.

That said, using the router to extend the DF500's mortises can work, but you can also too easily ram that long bit into the sides of the existing mortise with bad consequences unless you jig it up, in which case just use that jig to cut the whole mortise.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

Hi Doug,

As others have suggested, I don't think it's a good idea to use the DF-500 outside of its intended range.

If you're looking for longer/larger loose tenon joinery, I agree with Mino that you might benefit from looking at dowels. Rangate sells grooved rot-resistant, hardwood dowel pins intended for door construction which would probably work for your application, including 10mm x 100mm, 12mm x 100mm, and 16mm x 150mm:https://rangate.com/products/rot-resist-dowels

 

[dhoover1027]

I’ll look at Rangate.
I’ve used dowels in a door making class.
Pretty good.

Thanks !

Doug

 

[Cheese]

If you're not making a lot of joints, you can extend the depth of the Domino using a drill guide and a good sharp brad point drill like this Fuller bit. The brad point drill will allow you to drill overlapping, sequential holes next to each other and you then just pare the remaining webs out with a chisel.

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[dhoover1027]

Wow, you folks are great.
The drill guides are simple, easy to use and I have a set of brad point drills.
Simple, enjoyable and efficient.
The way to do business.
Thank you.

Doug