Looking to start my shop but what larger purchases are most important first?

[mino]

If this was not a Festool site, you could swap that track saw for a table saw.  [big grin]

I grew up with a table saw, so the track saw is still secondary to me, (but gaining in usage.)

Not really, I called these "essentials" for I see these as tools which are internally not inter-changeable/duplicite so one needs them all to cover all basic tasks.

Ref Track saw / Table saw, so me a table saw is here to do -certain- things better /and more expensively on tool cost and space cost/ than a track saw. So for a beginner it is an "upgrade tool" and not "essential" one.

You cannot really use a small/simple table saw (no extension, no shop to install it in, no shop DC) -in place- of a track saw. The moment one starts thinking how to handle a full sheet rip is when one realizes how it does not work in "field" settings when you have no RP's Total station to support it etc. On the other hand you *can* do everything a table saw can with a track saw. Sure, not as time-efficient, maybe not as accurate, but you can.

And this being FOG has nothing to do with it. My first tracksaw was $100 Lidl/Parkside model with a really crappy default blade which was dull from the factory. But still, it suddenly enabled me to forego depending on the formatting by the wood yard and their (in) accuracy at it.. I upgraded to a TSC because I -wanted- better, the cams and slides on it are day/night. Not because I had to.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.
On the other hand you *can* do everything a table saw can with a track saw. Sure, not as time-efficient, maybe not as accurate, but you can.

Actually the opposite of what you stated is almost* true: Table saws were born and used long before track saws.

These come to mind that the track saws are very poor at or incapable of doing: tenons, grooves, dadoes, circles, resawing, cove cutting and more.

* Almost because the track saws are portable, the table saws aren't.

 

[mino]

Snip.
On the other hand you *can* do everything a table saw can with a track saw. Sure, not as time-efficient, maybe not as accurate, but you can.

Actually the opposite of what you stated is almost* true: Table saws were born and used long before track saws.

These come to mind that the track saws are very poor at or incapable of doing: tenons, grooves, dadoes, circles, resawing, cove cutting and more.

* Almost because the track saws are portable, the table saws aren't.

With a respective jig, you can do tenons, grooves /do all the time/ dadoes. Not sure what you mean about "circles", but assume not the ones where kickback will ensue. Re-sawing and cove cutting yeah. But that is truly in the specialist area, and I am not sure you would be able to do that in the "normal" jobsite table saw.

When I think "table saw" as essential tool, I think of the $500 jobsite saws with little to no accessories.

Once one moves to an Erika or basically any proper table saw, the saw itself will cost about as much as *all* the other tools I mentioned.

Then, I am probably looking too small here on what I see as "essentials".

At a $5k total budget - tools, accessories, everything. One should not even look at a table saw before one gets a good tracksaw. E.g. a TS55 + FS/2 tracks, LR32, OF1010 + TSO GRS + TSO PGS will set you $10k total budget /+ >$10k for shop space/ the equation will change and a small cabinet table saw becomes very much a must have thing.

 

[ChuckM]

With a respective jig, you can do tenons, grooves /do all the time/ dadoes. Not sure what you mean about "circles", but assume not the ones where kickback will ensue. Re-sawing and cove cutting yeah. But that is truly in the specialist area, and I am not sure you would be able to do that in the "normal" jobsite table saw.

Circles=Round tops, round discs, etc.

Yes, any quality jobsite or contractor saws with a decent fence can do the fairly common sawing tasks I mentioned in my post.

Resawing is done 90% of time in my shop with the table saw, not with the band saw. I resaw on the band saw only when something is long or wide (6" and above). The secret to resawing quickly, cleanly, precisely and safely on the table saw is a tall fence, a quality ripping blade (thin-kerf, if available), a pair of featherboards and a push shoe.

People do tapers with the band saw; I with the SawStop...faster and cleaner results. Try tapering 20 pieces of narrow stock (1-1/4"x2") on four (4) sides with a track saw...doable with some kind of fixture, but quite a task.

My point is that a track saw, with its strengths and weaknesses, can complement a table saw. but not replace it, unless a user does not do many of the sawing tasks that a table saw excels at. In that case, some can even argue that a hand saw can replace the table saw. This statement also applies to the band saw.

 

[mino]

Resawing is possible with a tracksaw up to a point, did it a couple times, same as tapering. But it is a pain indeed.

Either way I believe we are in agreement actually.

The thing is, what you are targeting is a higher-end use case where raw wood processing capability is a must and taken for granted. I was aiming the "essentials" way lower, into the processing manufactured sheet goods area where a TS is no way essential. One simply do not need to do most of the non-sawing tasks you rightly note.

I argue that, for a lot of folks, anything beyond sheets goods processing is a bonus they have a limited use for. I see folks which can benefit from being able to make sheet goods stuff at quality as a much bigger group from those who cannot do without a raw lumber processing capability.

Ref. why I see a Tracksaw as a "before table saw" purchase:

Not sure if you ever tried to rip a full sheet of ply in one person in a 10 x 20' garage on a jobsite TS in the $500 class *without* any  saw table to speak of and just ad-hoc supports. Expecting any kind of accuracy is futile there, safety sideways.
I did, and it was possible to do the rip but very much impossible to make it accurately. I either had to hold the sheet -or- stabilize the saw. I even ended up screwing the saw to floor temporarily in then end. Still a PITA. With a tracksaw that is a task for a 10 year old.

Now, with a proper 4x8 table with extensions and a proper fence, that is another matter. But then we have just moved to whole different cost/space envelope. And we still do not have a portable tracksaw to use off-shop ...

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.
Not sure if you ever tried to rip a full sheet of ply in one person in a 10 x 20' garage on a jobsite TS

That's where the track saw shines.

I sold my TS75 in 2019 due to little use of it. If I need to break down a sheet (not as big as 4x8), I can do it very well on my SawStop with the Jessem Stock Guides and outfeed table. But for a 4x8, I'd have used my circular saw and straight edge -- the same method I used in the pre-TS75 days. The truth is that I've never dealt with a 4x8, because I always have it sized at the home center to 4 x 6 or two 4x4, etc. (first two cuts are free), so they can fit into my SUV. 8' sheets are too long for my car. [sad]

 

[cpw]

I prefer a track saw for large sheet goods, but always want to final dimension on my table saw with the fence.  If I had to pick one, I would pick the table saw.  A RIDGID contractor saw which is what I started with before upgrading to a Sawstop is $750 at home depot.  The saw is stout and heavy and will handle either sheet goods or hardwood with the 1 3/4 HP motor; just not as quickly as a 3hp machine.  A Makita track saw is $430 with only a 55" rail.  If you get a TS75 for similar depth of cut you are already at $675 without a rail.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.
A RIDGID contractor saw which is what I started with before upgrading to a Sawstop is $750 at home depot.  The saw is stout and heavy

The Ridgid (cast iron wings) was indeed a great saw with a very decent built-in mobile base for its price. Compared to its peers such as Craftsman, etc., it was well made. Lifetime warranty, I think. Most of my table sawing techniques were developed using that saw.

I sold it for well below $200 Cdn to some high school kid with some accessories, such as the cross-cut sled, extra blades, a dado cutter and jigs as soon as the SawStop PCS was assembled. The Ridgid's major weakness is its poor dust collection, like many other contractor saws.

 

[afish]

You got a good start with your list.  I would have built my own 4x8 mft especially If I didnt own a tablesaw, since this will be your primary cutting station for awhile. You will need a good spot to breakdown and cut full sheets.  A capable person can get a lot done with a 4x8 mft, tracksaw and lr32.  A miter box will be along soon for trim work. Your projects will quickly let you know what you need and hopefully help justify the purchase to the CFO. Hopefully you two are prepared for the never ending and relentless wallet attack that is about to start.  Tool buying can be an addiction.  Your probably still in denial, so come back in a few years if you are still at it.  There is a good support group that meets on Wednesday's.   

 

[johnyhuh]

Thanks for all the tips!

I think my next project is building some shelving for our living room so I was able to justify to my wife the purchase of the MFT/3 table and a TS-55 track saw. Also have an 1400 router and LR-32 kit on the way. Gonna use some plywood for the cabinets and shelves from my local shop. I'll post some pics once I get them done. Also have some ideas for storage in my kid's room. So many ideas! Really glad to finally have these tools to make them a reality  [big grin]

No matter how much you anticipate your shop design, it will change. Having plenty of outlets and a good dust collection set up will go a long way.

Have you consider Festool dust collector for those tools?