LR 32 hole system help- whats realty necessary?

[ccarrolladams]

Because I already owned a lot of Festool clamps, when I decided to use the LR32 system, in addition to an OF1010, I only bought the mid-level hole drilling kit, with additional 1/4" and 5mm bits. At first I bought the FS1080/2-LR32 drilled rail. My thinking was it would be more convenient for drilling typical cabinets. That has proven to be the case.

Then I started getting orders for closet organizers. Although I have yet to have been asked to build one of those 8' high, I am sure the FS2424/2-LR32 will be more than long enough. That has been the case with all the tall organizers. The normal rail connectors do not maintain the 32mm spacing, but to provide extra length for clamping that is not a problem.

I do frequently build media storage units. The 32mm hole spacing does not work well for these units. For those I used a non-drilled 2400mm rail, making pencil marks on the rail where the pointer of the guide plate is located. The way the LR32 guide plate is located its pin is spring loaded to drop into the holes. That is appropriate when drilling holes on 32mm centers, but a royal pain when a different pattern is needed.

Sooner rather than later I will buy one of the new to USA FS1400/2-LR32.

 

[oneinch]

Wood_Junkie, Another question please. You chose to go ahead and get a Festool router. Since I have a DW618 to handle medium to a little larger jobs, would I be better off getting the OF1010 to use with the LR32 system?  Or would you recommend leaving my DW618 mounted in my table and getting the OF1400 for the LR32 system and other 'off table' routing needs?  I am kind of thinking the little larger router just gives you more bang for the buck. I only build stuff for myself and can only make so many cabinets.  Your thoughts and those from anyone else are appreciated. I am an amateur at best.

 

[Wood_Junkie]

Wood_Junkie, Another question please. You chose to go ahead and get a Festool router. Since I have a DW618 to handle medium to a little larger jobs, would I be better off getting the OF1010 to use with the LR32 system?  Or would you recommend leaving my DW618 mounted in my table and getting the OF1400 for the LR32 system and other 'off table' routing needs?  I am kind of thinking the little larger router just gives you more bang for the buck. I only build stuff for myself and can only make so many cabinets.  Your thoughts and those from anyone else are appreciated. I am an amateur at best.

Oye, there's a ton of debate about the OF1400 vs. OF1010 decision.  

I opted to get the OF1400 first, well before I got the 1010.  The main reason for my decision:  I have a bunch of 1/2" router bits, that I use with the DW618.  Although I can certainly still use them in the DW, it seemed a bad idea (IMO) to limit the bit selection for the Festool router.  

The OF1400 really is the perfect blend of big router and hand-held usage.  But the OF1010 has a few more tricks, with the edge trimming setup and such.  

Having read a lot of the threads on this topic, the consensus seems to be: the OF1400 is a fantastic all-around router and it takes 1/2" bits.  It's without doubt the best choice if you are only going to own one router.  The OF1010 has been described by numerous people as their "go to" router for most tasks, but I don't think its the only one those people own.

FYI, I still have 3 of the DW618s.  I leave one in each router table, and I use one in the D-handle for dovetail jig use.  For all other handheld work I've switched to the Festools (DUST COLLLLLLLEEECTION!)

 

[mb]

WJ and CADAMS:  thank you for these helpful comments.  I have an OF 2000 that I would like to set up in the LR-32 sled.  Am I wasting my time?  Will there be any dust collection to speak of using a CT-22?  mb 

 

[ccarrolladams]

WJ and CADAMS:  thank you for these helpful comments.  I have an OF 2000 that I would like to set up in the LR-32 sled.  Am I wasting my time?  Will there be any dust collection to speak of using a CT-22?  mb 

I do not own an OF2000. I do own an OF2200 which effectively collects dust and chips so long as I use  36mm AS hose. I have never considered using the OF2200 to drill holes.

Someone else would have to provide advice about fitting an OF2000 to the current LR-32 guide plate. That is drilled to accept the OF1010 and OF1400

 

[Sparktrician]

WJ and CADAMS:  thank you for these helpful comments.  I have an OF 2000 that I would like to set up in the LR-32 sled.  Am I wasting my time?  Will there be any dust collection to speak of using a CT-22?  mb 

I do not own an OF2000. I do own an OF2200 which effectively collects dust and chips so long as I use  36mm AS hose. I have never considered using the OF2200 to drill holes.

Someone else would have to provide advice about fitting an OF2000 to the current LR-32 guide plate. That is drilled to accept the OF1010 and OF1400

If I'm reading it right, the LR32 is not compatible with the OF2200.  On p. 91 in the 2009 catalog, at the bottom of the page, you'll note that the far right columns are empty.  Has anyone actually tried using the OF2200 with the LR32?  In any case, using the OF2200 for line boring seems quite a bit of overkill when the OF1400 and OF1010 can handle the job so well using the LR32.  An alternative would be to use the OF2200 with a 5/8" PC bushing and a 5mm brad-point bit with the MEG Products (http://megproducts.com/) line-boring jigs.  I've had and used the Econo-Bore for a number of years. 

 

[honeydoman]

i use the lr32 on the 1400 due to the fact that I can screw the plate to the router, where the 1100 it has hold down screws.. which usually are fine, but the do get out of adjustment during use and have.  so I use the 1400.  I have 2 short rails, as I started with one rail short one, then added another short one to attach together,  not a good idea.. so I bought the long rail and so glad I did.  I use it all the time, and it is so much easier.  just lay it down and go at it..

if you do cabs, bookcases, closet stuff and need to drill holes for pegs, and the cabs are 5' or longer get the long rail.  I also usually go up about 8-10" on the bottom to start the first hole, and 10-12" from top.  then I skip every other hole it just looks better and most people never adjust the shelfs after I put them in.

there is my 17cents worth ( due to inflation back in the 60's it used to be my 2 cents worth, but has gone up since then)  lol