LR32 3d printed components?

[gearhound]

I'm curious if anyone has done any development on a 3d printed LR 32-esque jig? I've checked Thingiverse and came across one for the 1010, has anyone tried it out? Are the 1010 and 1400 bases the same dimensions? I'm yet to see one pop-up on Etsy, but the scene there seems to be thriving with accessories for the MFT, domino, dust ports, etc...
I've been considering building something like this jig that was posted here in 2009: www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/el-cheapo-diy-... but before I do that, I'm wondering if anyone has came across a good 3d printed solution? With the price point of the LR32 system and needing to purchase a separate "holey" rail for the system it's $680 (not including a router) and thus off-putting to a lot of potential users. I think there's a big market for an alternative that uses the standard festool rails with a jig that attaches to the rail.

Cheers,
Matt

 

[MaineShop]

I use an LR 32 on a fairly regular basis, at least once a week. Usually for one off cabinets. And I use an 8k line boring machine daily in a shop. I can picture a 3d printed jig being ok for shelf pin holes. But most of the purpose in the 32 mm system is for hardware mounting and layout. In our application we recalibrate the machine if our layouts are off by half a mm. That is a very small amount but it can really mess up your hardware and assembly. It can lead to costly rebuilds and time wasted. The festool system can give us that same accuracy in comparison to the machine that costs far more and weights prob 500lbs. I have a hard time picturing any plastic jig giving the type of tolerances needed for that kind of use. Like I said, fine for some shelf pins but not something I would trust with a run of 32 mm system cabinets.

If just looking at a shelf pin solution there are a ton of lighter duty plastic and poly jigs for that purpose that already exist and are very inexpensive.

When it comes to line boring with the guide rail you really need accuracy because often to do front and back bores you are referencing off the end of the panel and a little variation will compound as you move down the rail and be horrendously off layout by the end of it. That will leave you with firewood not a cabinet panel.

Full disclosure I am not as familiar with 3d printing as line boring so I could be way off on what is possible. I just don't think I would want a plastic jig for such a task unless my only goal was shelf pins.

 

[Bob D.]

You could prototype with a 3D printer and refine your design, then send it off to sendcutsend or a local shop to get one made in aluminum or some other more durable material than your prototype 3D print.

 

[mino]

On entry cost, the only thing you really need is the plate which is like $150.

The other pieces are optional, e.g. the depth setter can be replaced by a TSO PG attached to the rail etc. etc.

I do not really count holy rails into the LR32 cost. You do not need a separate LR32 rail dedicated for it.

Just get holy rails instead of normal ones, or sell your "normal" rails after you get the holy ones.

 

[gearhound]

On entry cost, the only thing you really need is the plate which is like $150.

The other pieces are optional, e.g. the depth setter can be replaced by a TSO PG attached to the rail etc. etc.

I do not really count holy rails into the LR32 cost. You do not need a separate LR32 rail dedicated for it.

Just get holy rails instead of normal ones, or sell your "normal" rails after you get the holy ones.

Yeah, I'm wondering if I could just buy the plate and holey rail and possibly make/3d print the other parts as I go? Never having used the LR32 system I'm not really sure what's essential and if it's worth buying the entire $535 systainer set? I got the festool parallel guide set at an estate sale last year for next to nothing and having a cabinet saw, I'm yet to even use them...I assume these could work as the depth setter? Is there a video showing how to use parallel guides with the LR32 I could refer to? Could the other parts of the set be replaced or quickly worked around too?

I just watched Peter Millard make a MFT top on Youtube with just the plate/rail and the speed at which you can make one as compared to my Mk.1 Parf system helps in justifying the cost to me. With the LR32, I'm looking to use its whole functionality in building cabinets/MFT tops and jigs....starting to think my best bet may be selling my parallel guides and parf-guide and using those funds to just buy the LR Kit...

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I use the LR32 system and the only thing I've 3D printed are spacer blocks which wrap around the 9.5, 16, 25.5, 32 rectangle bars for first hole distance from edge, and a 3D printed plate which allows me to increment hole depth without using the supplied octagon depth bars.  By the time you recreate all this, having all the exact locations/offsets, and ability to remove/attach the router in a "centered" location, you could've bought the actual system and been making cabinets with confidence in the OEM system.

FWIW - I bought a new and unused LR32 here on the FOG for around $400 so if price is an issue and you're not in a hurry keep an eye on the classifieds ...

 

[gearhound]

I use the LR32 system and the only thing I've 3D printed are spacer blocks which wrap around the 9.5, 16, 25.5, 32 rectangle bars for first hole distance from edge, and a 3D printed plate which allows me to increment hole depth without using the supplied octagon depth bars.  By the time you recreate all this, having all the exact locations/offsets, and ability to remove/attach the router in a "centered" location, you could've bought the actual system and been making cabinets with confidence in the OEM system.

FWIW - I bought a new and unused LR32 here on the FOG for around $400 so if price is an issue and you're not in a hurry keep an eye on the classifieds ...

Thanks for the response! Sounds like you've created some 3d accessories...any photos/video of them in action?

Cost is the biggest concern having not tried out the system yet and unsure if it's worth $680 dollars to me...it seems like it would be considered an accessory and not fall under the 30 day trial return policy. If I can track down one used that would be great...is there anything to be aware of with used ones? For instance, if it's been dropped is it possible the plate no longer indexes properly or something? My only experience with the system is via Youtube, so I'm quite clueless. 

 

[nicholam77]

I know of a Garage Journal Forum user (and Festool user) that used 3D printing to make a homebrewed LR32, based on a Makita trim router + Festool rail. You can read about it here:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352738&page=9

Check out posts #177 and #208 in particular.

Also embedding a few of his pics (not mine!) in case people don't want to follow the link:

You could conceivably create the other needed "stops", although it would be a lot of trial and error and time I would suspect.

If just drilling shelf pins, I really like this jig concept:


I feel like you could make some stops to do hinge cups with the right bit (maybe the Festool bit?).

I did make my own version of this and it's a bit tricky to set up, but does seem to work well. Because you can flip it over it eliminates the need for perfectly spaced 32mm on center holes (the video covers this). Here's mine:

Not 3D printed... but if you're looking for an LR32 style jig for extra cheap...

Hope that helps!

 

[mino]

Yeah, I'm wondering if I could just buy the plate and holey rail and possibly make/3d print the other parts as I go? Never having used the LR32 system I'm not really sure what's essential and if it's worth buying the entire $535 systainer set? I got the festool parallel guide set at an estate sale last year for next to nothing and having a cabinet saw, I'm yet to even use them...I assume these could work as the depth setter? Is there a video showing how to use parallel guides with the LR32 I could refer to? Could the other parts of the set be replaced or quickly worked around too?

I just watched Peter Millard make a MFT top on Youtube with just the plate/rail and the speed at which you can make one as compared to my Mk.1 Parf system helps in justifying the cost to me. With the LR32, I'm looking to use its whole functionality in building cabinets/MFT tops and jigs....starting to think my best bet may be selling my parallel guides and parf-guide and using those funds to just buy the LR Kit...

The only thing kinda-special and hard to replicate is the slide for the router. If you are on a budget, get just the slide and use simple plywood jigs to align the rail. You can buy the accessories later on if you see the need.

You definitely do not need the systainer set.

The system needs at a minimum:
rail + slide + router (Festool fits, but other can be adapted) + drilling router bit + some rail clamps

For shelf pin holes you want 5mm and 3mm drilling bits, for dowel holes (yes, LR32 can be used for that) you will want 8mm drilling bit or equivalents in imperial.

From that, only the slide is really "specific" for the task. Rest are general use pieces.

If I had minimum budget, I would get this set + compensate rest with jigs:
2x 1400 LR32 holy rail (instead/in-place of non-holy rails)
OF1010 (a great router on itself)
5mm and 8mm drilling bits for the OF1010 (8mm shank) for dowels and shelf pin holes
LR32 plate/slide
a couple rails clamps

after that:
TSO PG system (with two connectors to rail) with 30" tracks
35mm forstner bit for the OF1010 (8mm shank) for Euro hinges

I would consider additional accessories only afterwards and make do with simple plywood jigs for rail positioning.

Full disclosure:
I got myself the basic L32 set (without systainer and other bits or clamps) and happy with the purchase. But if I was on a tight budget, would got just for the plate as the positioning aides are nice, but not really a must.

Looking back, I should have saved some money there and got the TSO PG system instead for lateral positioning of the rail.

 

[todd_fuller]

I saw some other items from this seller and they have some neat solutions. I landed at their store looking at the Domino - track connector.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1058915031/toolcurve-lr-32-hole-drilling-plate

 

[mattgam]

There is actually a discussion on this at toolcurve lr32