LR32 Alternate Routers

[jacklewis]

Apologies if this has been covered in other places, my searching skills haven't found it if it exists.

I just ordered the LR32 kit and its rail, but it seems the OF1010 and OF1400 are backordered for about the next six months. I'm wondering which other routers will fit the LR32 plate without modification. And if anyone has experience doing that, any caveats that might apply. I'd prefer a router that can use 1/2", 1/4" and 8mm bits, and potentially could be used as an undermount router for a router table in the future once I can get an OF1400.

Thank you!

 

[Bob D.]

I am working on something similar to what you are looking for, but it does not
check all your boxes with the routers it is currently intended to be used with.

Mine is centered around using a compact 1.25HP cordless router such as the
DeWalt DCW600b or a compact corded router like the Porter-Cable 450PK
though it could could easily be made to work with mid-sized (2-1/4HP) routers
providing they fit on the LR32 plate.

You can read more about it here.https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...-lr32-base-plate-adapter/msg662086/#msg662086

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The new version of the OF1010 is supposed to be shipping soon, but it won't take 1/2" bits.

 

[xedos]

perhaps this may fit your needs ?
https://www.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/products/fsn-ofa-32-kit-800-1600A001T8

It accepts a variety of routers, and can be modified to fit others.  Problem you'll find is it wasn't widely available in the USA.  I think Shane @ toolnut has/had them.  And, it may even be discontinued.

Pretty sure you can still find them on eBay, Amazon,  and the tool shops in the UK that ship to the U.S.

 

[nicholam77]

Piggybacking off [member=60461]Bob D.[/member] 's thread, I'm in the middle of making a 3D printed adapter plate for my full size DeWalt DW618, which comes with 1/2" and 1/4" collets, and could accept 8mm with a 1/2"-8mm collect reducer (Amana Tools makes one, available on Amazon).

Depends on what you mean by "modification", but I'm guessing there are very few 3rd party routers that will work without some sort of intermediate solution, like an adapter plate.

If you for some reason happen to go with this particular model, I'd be happy to share the design.

 

[Bob D.]

I will have a video out soon (probably later today) showing my adapter kit in use.

I'll post a link in the thread about my adapter build.

 

[Peter_C]

Although there doesn't appear to be ANY stock around you are more than likely to find a Festool router in a smaller local type store. For instance stores that do not have an online presence. I would recommend calling around. I use an OF1010 for the LR32 setup, which is my favorite router to use due to it's size and capabilities. The OF1400 is far more powerful, and more of a handful, so not as good for small round overs etc. I would also recommend a dedicated router in a router table. Too much effort to switch back and forth.

 

[rmwarren]

[member=76497]jacklewis[/member] I have the [member=60461]Bob D.[/member] adapter and (1) it appears to work perfectly & (2) I think I now have a lightly used OF1010 that is surplus. Haven't actually bored any holes with the DW611, but everything fit perfectly & parts are excellent quality.

I never used the 1010 for anything but the LR32, and I've probably bored

 

[woodbutcherbower]

You could always cancel your order and buy this instead;
https://www.sautershop.com/system-32-router-template-phenolic-resin-sa-mfs3202-2.0

It works with any router without any modification (even an OF2200) and it’s super-accurate. All you need is the appropriate guide bush and absolutely nothing else. No mods, no adaptors, no gadgets. Way more flexible and infinitely more comprehensive than the LR32 and way, way cheaper - plus it opens up an opportunity to use any half-inch router out there with quarter-inch and 8mm reducing collets. Just make sure whatever you choose can be supplied with a 17mm guide bush - that’s what’s needed for this jig. They ship worldwide. No affiliation other than being a very happy user.

Just my 10¢ …..

 

[jacklewis]

[member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member]

Thanks for the tip, I think I will go with that jig. I assume I could use that to drill the screw holes for cup hinges, and then use the Rockler cup hinge jig for my cabinet doors?

 

[woodbutcherbower]

[member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member]

Thanks for the tip, I think I will go with that jig. I assume I could use that to drill the screw holes for cup hinges, and then use the Rockler cup hinge jig for my cabinet doors?

You can, [member=76497]jacklewis[/member]. I'm not familiar with that particular Rockler jig, but I'm assuming it's one of many jigs available which line up the hole position for a 35mm Forstner bit. One tiny downside I forgot to mention is that the supplied instruction manual is in German, but you can download an English version as a pdf and print it yourself.

Before making your final decision, it's worth taking some time out of your day to watch this;


It's a pretty comprehensive review (the oversized registration pin problem was indeed a one-off by the way) and the review guy also owns an LR32, so it's pretty objective.

Hope you get fixed up.

 

[Coen]

Just think about how often you want to move that jig...

I did one project with something like 1100 holes for a ceiling height piece. I bought a second 1400 holey rail for that. Definitely would not want to do that with something that is only 1 meter long.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Just think about how often you want to move that jig...

I did one project with something like 1100 holes for a ceiling height piece. I bought a second 1400 holey rail for that. Definitely would not want to do that with something that is only 1 meter long.

There were 1000+ holes in that floor-to-ceiling cabinet build. Once you’ve drilled a metre’s worth of holes, you just slide the jig along and pop a 5mm locating pin into the last hole you just drilled. It takes seconds.

 

[Coen]

Just think about how often you want to move that jig...

I did one project with something like 1100 holes for a ceiling height piece. I bought a second 1400 holey rail for that. Definitely would not want to do that with something that is only 1 meter long.

There were 1000+ holes in that floor-to-ceiling cabinet build. Once you’ve drilled a metre’s worth of holes, you just slide the jig along and pop a 5mm locating pin into the last hole you just drilled. It takes seconds.

For the mid-panel row that doesn't give complete alignment. Also, moving the router from one hole to the next isn't as easy as with the Festool LR-32 system, and debris on the template will get the holes out of alignment.

Other than that; maybe if I didn't own the Festool system already I would have gotten that.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Fair comment [member=8955]Coen[/member] !! But this was the first (and likely only) time I’ve ever been asked to build something as ‘modern’ as this. If I was doing this all day, every day = LR32 for sure.

Oh - and ‘debris on the template’ ?? OF2200 + 1/2” x 5mm cutter + 36mm hose + CT26 at full speed = no debris. Like - zero. Nothing.

 

[Coen]

The template seems a lot fatter than the ring, so it would be hard to get debris in the way. But using the OF2200 for a row of 5mm holes seems not that comfortable. Especially if you can't slide it like on Festool's system.

This was for a internally modern rebuild of a 1930's build-in cabinet.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Using the 2200 wasn’t ideal for sure. But it’s the only router I have which has a 17mm guide bush. First choice would have been my little Makita RP1100C - but no bush available. So it was time to bring out the big fella [smile]