LR32 Front and Back Shelf pin holes not aligning

[jofuss55]

The reason for the misalignment is the fault of the really poor manual. You need to enlist the help of Die Deutche Sperholz Feen ( the German plywood fairies) who , when you lift up the tracks, rotate the work piece NOT the rails. Also, marking the tracks and workpiece A&B on oppsite ends so that when drilling A side the A is right side up and the B is upside down. When drilling the B side should be right side up and the A upside down.
F minus Festool for such a poor manual.

 

[edanielvijay]

The reason for the misalignment is the fault of the really poor manual. You need to enlist the help of Die Deutche Sperholz Feen ( the German plywood fairies) who , when you lift up the tracks, rotate the work piece NOT the rails. Also, marking the tracks and workpiece A&B on oppsite ends so that when drilling A side the A is right side up and the B is upside down. When drilling the B side should be right side up and the A upside down.
F minus Festool for such a poor manual.

Joss,
Should not we drill the holes always from the same side. If we rotate the workpiece then A set of holes are from one edge and B set of holes are from other edge. I am sure it will work if the work piece is multiple of 32 mm to the dot. But, even if there are 0.5 mm difference then will that not cause an issue.

 

[mastercabman]

The reason for the misalignment is the fault of the really poor manual. You need to enlist the help of Die Deutche Sperholz Feen ( the German plywood fairies) who , when you lift up the tracks, rotate the work piece NOT the rails. Also, marking the tracks and workpiece A&B on oppsite ends so that when drilling A side the A is right side up and the B is upside down. When drilling the B side should be right side up and the A upside down.
F minus Festool for such a poor manual.

Joss,
Should not we drill the holes always from the same side. If we rotate the workpiece then A set of holes are from one edge and B set of holes are from other edge. I am sure it will work if the work piece is multiple of 32 mm to the dot. But, even if there are 0.5 mm difference then will that not cause an issue.

Allways register from the same edge.Make sure those stops are tight against the edge.I allways use the bottom of whatever i'm making.

 

[tiralie]

Should not we drill the holes always from the same side. If we rotate the workpiece then A set of holes are from one edge and B set of holes are from other edge. I am sure it will work if the work piece is multiple of 32 mm to the dot. But, even if there are 0.5 mm difference then will that not cause an issue.

I always rotate the workpiece (unless it's over 4 ft.) but mark the rail as to what set of holes on the rail to use. I put the stops at both ends of the rail and register the same edge (bottom) from each stop. I use this setup when I use true32 or inch measured components. This way I am not reaching over the rail when I am cutting the holes. I am always looking directly over the rail when tightening my clamps making sure everything is registered.

Tim

 

[fshanno]

I made my own stops and they are DIFFERENT LENGTHS.  The standard stops from Festool would yield the kind of result you are talking about on my holy rail, with my sled.  And my difference is, very interestingly,  a hair less than 2mm. 

Now I didn't buy the Festool stops because I can't use them anyway.  I use the Blum Process32 system for frameless (and framed for that matter) where the first hole is 46.5 mm from the bottom.  While making my stops I discovered that my holy rail was off.  I broke down the sled router and re-centered three times.  Fiddled with the sleds fit on the guide.  No luck.  No problem for me because I just sanded the end of the stops to get my perfect alignment.

Here's what I have.  Notice the 2 on the guide and the stop.  One end is labeled 1 and the other is labeled 2 to differentiate.

[attachthumb=1]

And since I'm making the end stops I went ahead and made edge stops as well and saved a pile of money.

[attachthumb=2]

A little view of my cheapo edge stops.  The reason the rod is so long is that I can reference from the front of the panel for all hole columns.  System holes tend to line up with the holes on Tandem glides better when you reference from the bottom and the front edge.  Blunt end system screws are sensitive to hole alignment.

And I'll throw in better a view of my vacuum clamp gizmo.  The pads are the V-Clamp models available from Lee Valley.  $145 for the stuff from Lee Valley and I had the rest laying around.

[attachthumb=3]

If you ain't vacuum clamping then you ain't clamping.  (That's a takeoff on the money line from a movie dear to the hearts of builders and homeowners for 2 generations.)

So why not check out Blum's Process32?.  It's a really slick system built around Solo, Tandem and Tandembox which is the defacto industry standard.  You can make your own end stops for the exact results you want.

And I'll tell you another thing.  I've become convinced that summertime heat can affect all this aluminum gear more than we want to think.  Let's see, I'm working at a latitude of 30.34 and the latitude of Wendlingen is what... 48.67?  Hmmm, 18 degrees of latitude difference. 

 

[edanielvijay]

Good one! but I dont see any markings or your side stops. How are you measuring from the edges.

 

[fshanno]

Good one! but I dont see any markings or your side stops. How are you measuring from the edges.

Good question.  It a hair over 209mm from the back of the guide to the center line of the hole.  Say I want to punch a column of system holes 37mm back from the front edge.  I set the back of the guide a hair over 246mm from the edge of the panel using the old razor blade method and then set the edge stops using that. 

Now here's the big deal.  Say you have a standard you like to use no matter what it is.  Just make a set of non adjustable edge stops built to that standard.  You'll surely want one at 37.  If you use Blum you'll want one at 261mm and 517mm from the front.  You can make edge stops that work from either of the channels and from the front or the back side of the guide. 

 

[mastercabman]

One thing that i do when setting the guide rail,i put the stops so that the edge is halfway in the hole.
So when i clamp my rail to the material,i have a "visual comfirmation" that it is tight against the panel.