LS 130 profile sander y/n?

iamnothim

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I'm looking at the LS 130 sander and wondering if it's worth it or should I just keep sanding profiles by hand/finger.  I would use it mostly to refinish furniture.  I also need to weigh the "operational cost" of the LS 130..... profiles and papers.

I have a Porter Cable profile sander and it's junk.  I do like all the little rubber profiles thingys that came with it.  I use them with the 3M sticky rolls of paper for hand sanding the profiles.
 
tallgrass said:
I have had this for years.....it is great for what it is meant to do.

Tallgrass
Please excuse my ignorance.....  Is what I'm doing.... furniture refinishing... what it was meant to do?

Thanks

Luke

 
  It is very good for stripping profiles. Really cuts down on the laborious hand work of doing that job. You will still probably find some things that are better done by hand. It is nothing like the PC profile sander .................. because the LS130 actually works well. Takes a little practice to control it by once you get the knack of it , you will really like it.

Seth
 
Good grief yes. I to had a P C profile sander. Aside from vibrating my hand numb. the noise, the dust, the profiles falling off, and the sand paper falling off the profiles, it will sand after a fashion. Once I got the LS 130. life was so much better. I did have an RTS 400 so sandpaper was no problem. I did have to get a few profiles, even made one, but that was not very difficult. By the way I used the LS for refinishing kitchen cabinets, as I said worked like a charm.
 
What's really good about the LS130 is when you realise that you have a whole lot of Granat abrasive that'll also fit the RTS400 [eek]

I've resisted so far, but we all know ... RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!

To me the LS130 is something that would shine for banisters, railings, etc ... furniture would depend on the specific designs - but probably a yes to most typical profiles.

Unlike a RO90 or an ETS... or the like, the LS130 has very specific application and the extra bases for specific requirements bumps up its cost relative to application. It's the Festool I've go the least value out of personally, but that said, I really do like it.

I got mine specifically for some profiles I'll be working on small boats and boards (surf, SUP, etc), but I haven't had time to focus my efforts.
 
Great feedback.  Tanks

After posting I thought it might be too big for furniture, but then again probably fine in most instances.
I also realized, "hey it's a flat pad in-line sander too.  That's nice to have.
On a couple of projects (below) my ETS 150/3 or RO 90 left fish hooks with 300 grit granat.
In the end, the top coats took care of them but I'm of the impression they would not be as bad with an in line sanding motion.
Please correct me on this....

EDIT:  The last two picks are after the top coats.  The piece is "distressed" in places on purpose.

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What abrasive were you using? To me that almost looks as if contaminant got between the timber and the abrasive as you were sanding.

I was only half joking about RTS400 BTW. I think it's a compliment in this kind of work ... as is the DTS400 (a sander I've been know to rave about).

Using a linear sander with a movement you'd typically use across a flat surface is far from ideal. I wouldn't go that way personally.

AWESOME cabinet.
 
Kev said:
What abrasive were you using? To me that almost looks as if contaminant got between the timber and the abrasive as you were sanding.

I was only half joking about RTS400 BTW. I think it's a compliment in this kind of work ... as is the DTS400 (a sander I've been know to rave about).

Using a linear sander with a movement you'd typically use across a flat surface is far from ideal. I wouldn't go that way personally.

AWESOME cabinet.

I was thinking the same thing. When sanding finish or paint you need to check for bits of build up on the abrasive. Even with good DC some will still occur and one particle can leave some pretty bad scratches.

Seth
 
Kev said:
What abrasive were you using? To me that almost looks as if contaminant got between the timber and the abrasive as you were sanding.

I was only half joking about RTS400 BTW. I think it's a compliment in this kind of work ... as is the DTS400 (a sander I've been know to rave about).

Using a linear sander with a movement you'd typically use across a flat surface is far from ideal. I wouldn't go that way personally.

AWESOME cabinet.

As I recall the photo was taken after the dye stain.  I believe I used the RO 90 in orbital mode with a granat 360 grit.  I've noticed the fishhook pattern on several occasions.  I subscribe to Charles Neil's Finishing Blog and watch his videos.  He said this is normal.  I did not ask about in-line sanding.  Naturally it would be bad across grain.

Probably explains why 95% of finishing sanders are orbital.

I did not make the dresser, I only stripped it and refinished it.  I used General Finishes water based ebony dye with an ounce of India Ink.  The top coat is General Finishes Pre-Cat water based Urethane.  I used Soy-A-gel stripper.  No gloves or respirator.  It worked great on this paint.  On older varnishes not quite as good.

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John Lucas, RIP, did a review on the LS 130 a few years ago. I can't seem to find it???

Tom
 
Kev said:
What abrasive were you using? To me that almost looks as if contaminant got between the timber and the abrasive as you were sanding.

I was only half joking about RTS400 BTW. I think it's a compliment in this kind of work ... as is the DTS400 (a sander I've been know to rave about).

Using a linear sander with a movement you'd typically use across a flat surface is far from ideal. I wouldn't go that way personally.

AWESOME cabinet.
Yo Kev,

You got me looking again and I've decided to pull the pin on a DTS 400.  I can't wait to get it.
I had been wanting something size wise between my ETS 150/3 and the RO 90 but I wasn't feeling the love for the RO 125.  First I was thinking  "I already have a delta sander" , but my expectation is the DTS will be a lot more refined and ergonomic than the RO 90.  Much easier to control in corners.  It also has the beveled edges.

Then I thought, what the heck it has the same footprint as the RTS except 20% less surface area.  Big deal. 

Oh Boy...New Toy !
 
iamnothim said:
Kev said:
What abrasive were you using? To me that almost looks as if contaminant got between the timber and the abrasive as you were sanding.

I was only half joking about RTS400 BTW. I think it's a compliment in this kind of work ... as is the DTS400 (a sander I've been know to rave about).

Using a linear sander with a movement you'd typically use across a flat surface is far from ideal. I wouldn't go that way personally.

AWESOME cabinet.
Yo Kev,

You got me looking again and I've decided to pull the pin on a DTS 400.  I can't wait to get it.
I had been wanting something size wise between my ETS 150/3 and the RO 90 but I wasn't feeling the love for the RO 125.  First I was thinking  "I already have a delta sander" , but my expectation is the DTS will be a lot more refined and ergonomic than the RO 90.  Much easier to control in corners.  It also has the beveled edges.

Then I thought, what the heck it has the same footprint as the RTS except 20% less surface area.  Big deal. 

Oh Boy...New Toy !

SHANE - don't forget my commission this time [big grin]

You'll love the DTS400. I thought I had the best sander in the world when I first got my Rupes delta. Boy, was I wrong! Ironically it was when I was hunting for abrasives for the Rupes delta that I first ran into Festool down at Northern Abrasives in Brookie.
 
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