LS 130 sander question

tvgordon

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Joined
Jan 25, 2007
Messages
501
Hi guys,

One of the reasons I bought the LS 130 sander was to replace my Porter Cable profile sander. One of my main uses for the PC was to sand routed profile like round overs and coves.

Looking over the optional profiles available for the LS, I was wondering how to best replace the PC?  For example, how would I sand a 1/4" round over or a Roman ogee?  I don't have to buy a do it yourself kit for each profile do I?

Thanks,
Tom
 
Roundovers are easy, Tom. Get a concave sanding pad that either matches the radius or closely matches the radius and is of a tighter radius. You can vary how tight you put the paper into that radius and it acts as sort of a "variable radius". If I'm using this "variable radius" technique, I tend to use Rubin or some paper with a stout backing. If I want to fit a radius really tight, I use Brilliant because the backing is very flexible.

If you can show some examples of what you were using with the PC sander, I can try to give you solutions.

Tom
 
Hi,

For the roman ogee and other multi facetted profiles. You can either use several different standard LS130 pads to get into the various shapes, or use the make your own kit.

Like Tom said the roundovers are no prblem with standard radius pads.

Seth
 
Been there, done that, or at least, this....  [wink]  The PC profile kit is really nice, but much of the smaller pads are relying on sticky abrasives/self adhesive to wrap over the rubber profiles. With your now new to you LS 130, invest in some of the radius pads,whatever your needs run, and take pride in the fact that your dust collection is way better than the PC ever was, and you can "fudge" radius sanding like others posted without needed the fairly huge profile set that comes with the P-C sander kit[although I refuse to get rid of mine,still have both sanders, P-C and the LS 130 [tongue]]
I'd rather use hook-loop paper for my radius sanding than self-adhesive type rolls. Just easier and less fussy changing paper out.  Enjoy the learning curve of the LS130, it's another one of those Festool sanders that's in a world of its own.
 
I'm sure I'll like the LS better than the PC. I like all the profiles for the PC but wished for dust collection and hook and loop sandpaper.

Tom,
Let's say I wanted to sand a cut made with a 3/8" beading bit - round over with 1/8" shoulders. How would I sand it using one of the radius pads without sanding the shoulders as well?

The PC has small profiles (similar to the tadpole sanding pads for hand sanding) so I could just sand the radius between the shoulders. I'm sure there's an easy way to do this and I'm just not seeing it.

Thanks,
Tom
 
tvgordon said:
I'm sure I'll like the LS better than the PC. I like all the profiles for the PC but wished for dust collection and hook and loop sandpaper.

Tom,
Let's say I wanted to sand a cut made with a 3/8" beading bit - round over with 1/8" shoulders. How would I sand it using one of the radius pads without sanding the shoulders as well?

The PC has small profiles (similar to the tadpole sanding pads for hand sanding) so I could just sand the radius between the shoulders. I'm sure there's an easy way to do this and I'm just not seeing it.

Thanks,
Tom

Make the opposite profile on the sanding block. Attach paper. Easy peasy.

DO-IT-YOURSELF KIT
$46.00
Product No. 490780

SRSemenza has a great tutorial on Festool Talk Forum. Go to the  search tab & enter " Custom Pad For LS 130 Duplex"
 
I'd have to agree with waho. If you're talking about creating a bead as opposed to a bullnose, you might have to make your own profile.

Are you saying the root of the bead is 1/8" radius? Can you show a drawing of what you want?

The standard pads that are sold for the LS 130 are not really designed for detailed router work. The "make your own profile" set has limitations also. You can only make a pad so tight in the change of direction. After all, it is made using sandpaper and is made to hold sandpaper.

Tom
 
Hi,

I agree that  for the 3/8" bead profile you would need to do a custom pad.  And I would suggest either Brilliant 2 or Granat  abrasive for a small detail such as the bead  because it is thinner and will fold into the tight shape better. You will still need to go easy though to avoid blunting the bead.

Here are some links that may be helpful with the LS130. Some are for threads here on FOG and some are for threads on talkFestool.  Also the custom pad I made does not use the "sand in" method , it just wasn't needed for the shape I did.

Custom Pad

LS130 Review

Grit changing tip.

Another review

Seth

 
Tom,

That's what I was confused about, none of the LS concave radius profiles looked as if they would work to sand a 3/8" round over on a 3/4" tabletop.  They looked like they were more for bullnose profiles and round pieces.  They would probably work better if they were just the center radius section without the long straight sides.  The convex profiles look good for sanding coves.

Seth,

Thanks for the links.  I may have to keep using the Porter Cable or hand sanding some as using an expensive do it yourself kit for each of the different router bit profiles would get quite expensive.  I will eventually make a few for my most used profiles.

As always I thank you for your help,

Tom
 
Tom:

The "Outside Edge" pads for the LS 130 are definitely for roundovers and they work quite well.

There is a little bit of a technique issue because, as you noted, there are the straight portions of the pads. If the user doesn't handle the pad correctly, the straight portions can make a slight rabbet in the work piece. This can be dealt with by sanding down the adjacent surface but it is something that the use needs to note.

I don't see any problem sanding a 3/8" roundover on a 3/4" or, for that matter, a 3" tabletop. I would use the 6mm radius and load stiff paper slightly loose so that it conformed to the 9.5mm or so radius. That is what I meant in my post above about a "variable radius".

Tom
 
Tom,

Here is a link to the round overs I'd like to sand with the LS -  www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102/ea_-_edge_forming

The round over that is cut below the surface and beading cuts in the diagram on that page.  I was hoping there was a way to use a stock pad without going to a do it yourself kit for each of the different bits.  I don't see how to sand those radius cuts while avoiding the square edges with the stock pads though.  I wasn't sure you understood what I was trying to say in earlier posts. 

Thanks again for the help,
Tom

 
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