Magazine Kapex review

[Dan Clark]

  Yeah, Shane, I know why they made the height as they did.

I didn't word my last part of my post very well, I meant the total height of the MFT/Kapex could be a bit higher (the total height of the deck off of the floor). I know it matches the MFT/3's height, its Festool's system approach. I don't think this is by any means a deal breaker, but it is an inconvenience all the same.

Brice,

Just curious...  How high is your Sawhelper stand compared to the MFT stand? 

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Hi,
......I think the Kapex would be very uncomfortable at this mounting height.  If I get one I would think I would want it quite low.  Perhaps the accuracy of the laser will make up for the lessened view.  I can't wait to get my hands on one to check it out.

Seth

Seth do you have experience using lasers? I find they reduce accuracy, believe it or not. Nothing beats the old fashion way, the trusty eyeball.

Brice,
Did you modify your makita, or did they cancel the safety paddle for the guard lock? My old (2001) ls1013 has the thumb button safety switch, and an extra paddle to the right, which you have to press with your index finger to be able to lower the blade (like the first stage of the kapex trigger) In regards to this method, the kapex solution is easier.......

Frank-Jan

Frank-Jan, the Makita saws in the US don't have the safety switch to lower the blade, thank goodness.

Brice,

Just curious...  How high is your Sawhelper stand compared to the MFT stand? 

Regards,

Dan.

Dan, the Swahelper stand (with the MDF top) is around 34 1/8" and my Makita's saw bed is another 4 1/4" taller.

 

[semenza]

Seth do you have experience using lasers? I find they reduce accuracy, believe it or not. Nothing beats the old fashion way, the trusty eyeball.

HI,

    No, and I know that in general they are not accurate enough. But my impression from posts here is that the  Kapex lasers are very accurate.  Did you get to try it out enough to confirm?

Seth

 

[Brice Burrell]

HI,

     No, and I know that in general they are not accurate enough. But my impression from posts here is that the  Kapex lasers are very accurate.  Did you get to try it out enough to confirm?

Seth

Seth, the lasers on the Kapex are supposed to be some of the best in the industry, they may well be. I think one would need to define their accuracy, for me, I want to split a very fine pencil line. A laser simply doesn't produce a sharp enough line to accomplish that. Nothing beats the sharp contrast the kerf shows when aligning be eye. This is my opinion, YMMV.

 

[bill-e]

I did a review on an add-on laser product a few years ago.  The laser line wasn't all that crisp but I did, and still do, find it quite easy to hit your mark.

Here's a pic of some test cuts I made while using the laser.  I purposely just aligned it and cut, I didn't fiddle with the alignment and cut at my usual pace.  I think the results were pretty good.  If the Kapex laser is a better laser I see no reason why it wont be extremely accurate.  And I really like not having to use a saw tooth to align my work.

----cut and paste from review ------
[attachthumb=#1]

All cuts are at a 90? miter. From left to right:
1. 45? bevel, left side of blade - leave the line
2. 33.9? bevel, left side of blade - leave the line
3. No Bevel, left side of blade - bury the line
4. No Bevel, left side of blade - leave the line
5. No bevel - split the line
6. No bevel, right side of blade - leave the line
7. No bevel, right side of blade - bury the line

  You will notice that cut # 2 and #7 are a bit off. The first pass I took of the test cuts were all right on. I attribute this to the operator (me) rushing the cut and not being careful. I could have redone the set of cuts but my intent was to show you the results I got being reasonably careful.

 

[JayStPeter]

I had (well have, but read on) the Delta/PC laser miter saw.  At least until Kapex comes along, it had the best rated lasers.  I found them great for building a deck, but for making furniture I prefer an eye on the edge of the blade.  It depends on the level of accuracy you need and are willing to accept.  Even when building the deck, for some trim pieces I didn't use the laser.  But, when trying to cut a little off a 20' piece to within 1/8" or so, the laser was awesome.  It would've taken lots of back and forth to adjust the cut then check it which wasn't necessary when you could see the laser from a few feet away and align the cut from someplace you could guide the 20' of trex-alike.
The Delta/PC saws have a fatal flaw in that the laser power supply is powered anytime the saw is plugged in.  They have a limited lifetime, so after a year of the saw being plugged in full time in my shop, the lasers no longer work.  I could get another power supply for it, but what's the point for another year.  The only thing I really used it for in the shop was getting close on compound cuts.  Then I'd turn it off anyway because I found it annoying when trying to hone in to hit the line exactly.
I found I could hit lines exactly with it, but it took a little practice as the line wasn't perfectly crisp.  After a few months of not using it, you have to practice again.  So, I usually turned it off and went old-school. 
Unfortunately, the laser was the best feature of the saw.  Aside from the 12" cut capacity, I wish I had my old $89 10" non-compound saw back as it was more accurate and didn't randomly wander in and out of alignment.
The Kapex is on my list of desired shop upgrades, but with blades and the table/crown extensions it's pushing into the cost territory of my more desired 12" jointer/planer combo.

 

[Roland Chung]

  Tom, I don't like the handle location, and that stupid trigger is even worse! The trigger (power switch) has to be pressed to lower the saw, then a second button pressed to fully engage the power switch, to turn on the saw, bad design! From what I understand you get used to it, it doesn't change the fact that it is a useless feature. Keep in mind I only used the saw briefly in Henderson.

I just went to the JLC show in Long Beach and finally got to put my hands on this miter saw that I have been lusting for.  I like so many things about this saw, especially the lasers and dust collection, but I don't know if I can get past the grip/switch layout.  My hands are not exactly little, I usually wear large or extra large gloves and I know that German hands are pretty large, but when I tried the two stage thumb and finger switch, I found it to be very uncomfortable.  Maybe some field mods might help, but after I pulled the trigger with my forefinger and depressed the thumb switch, when I pulled down the saw, my hand kept sliding off of the switches.

Maybe I can wrap it with the rubber grip material that we put on framing guns.  With my Makita, my little finger rests on the bottom of the handle slot, my thumb is over the safety button and my forefinger is over the trigger.  With the Kapex, when my little finger is at the bottom of the handle slot, my forefinger and thumb are about 3 inches out of position to turn on the saw.  I hate the idea of having to tape a block of foam into the bottom of the handle slot.

I still might get one, but I don't know if I can warm up to this handle/switch thing.

 

[Brice Burrell]

  Roland, I wouldn't be surprise if Festool removes the double safety trigger on the US model in the future. I don't mind the trigger lock the like most miters have (and the TS 55/75). I think this is a common safety feature in Europe, but most N. Americans aren't used to it. It may give us (N. Americans) a bad first impression of the Kapex.

 

[nickao]

The Kapex is on my list of desired shop upgrades, but with blades and the table/crown extensions it's pushing into the cost territory of my more desired 12" jointer/planer combo.

Jay get the jointer planer combo for sure!

All the miter box does is cross cut and the Kapex is not that much better to NOT get a combo machine in lieu. If you have  no planer jointer or sub standard ones, go with the new planer/jointer first and get the Kapex 6 months after the guys on the forum have time to work with it. The jointer/ planer is imperative if you want to save tons of money on rough lumber.

I save enough purchasing rough lumber that in 6 months(maybe 3) I easily could by a Kapex with the difference.

nickao

 

[markcoutinho]

Guys (girls too?), I've been using the Kapex for some 6 months now and I read this forum-subject and your comments and I thought: what are they talking about? So I walked to my garage to check the safety-thing on the grip.
First of all: of course it's a personal and subjective issue but in my opinion the safety-thing is no bother at all because it fits in the natural way of closing your hand (make fist). That's all.
I've had worse: before this one I had a Mannesmann (for those of you who don't know that brand... you don't w?nt to know that brand: it's sub-minor-league) and that miter saw had THREE handles that you had to clinch.

Further, the laser-issue: it took me some time to figure out how these double lines had to be interpreted but now I always use them and every time it's spot on!

 

[JayStPeter]

The Kapex is on my list of desired shop upgrades, but with blades and the table/crown extensions it's pushing into the cost territory of my more desired 12" jointer/planer combo.

Jay get the jointer planer combo for sure!

All the miter box does is cross cut and the Kapex is not that much better to NOT get a combo machine in lieu. If you have  no planer jointer or sub standard ones, go with the new planer/jointer first and get the Kapex 6 months after the guys on the forum have time to work with it. The jointer/ planer is imperative if you want to save tons of money on rough lumber.

I save enough purchasing rough lumber that in 6 months(maybe 3) I easily could by a Kapex with the difference.

nickao

No worries nickao.  I've got an 8" jointer and a benchtop planer.  A 12" J/P combo is at the top of my wish list though.  It will give me more jointer capacity, an induction motor planer, and fit into my shop a little better.  My Ridgid planer recently needed a few new parts.  While I still expect it to last a while, it's clear I eventually need something more substantial.  But, I've also been wanting a sliding CMS to replace my standard 12" CMS.  Until now (or July), there were none that fit up against a wall that I would've considered an upgrade from an accuracy standpoint.  With my race car eating my hobby budget, it's doubtful I'll get either this year.  Too many hobbies, to little $  :.

Jay

 

[Dan Clark]

A couple of additional points...

While at Henderson, I noticed the lasers but didn't focus on them.  I like them because they give me a clear idea of where the blade will go.  Lining up miters and ensuring the blade is on the correct side of the cut line are two key benefits for me.  BUT...  I'm not ready to completely trust a laser.  I'll still bring the blade down to the cut line for preciseness. 

Regarding the safety trigger, like the overall handle configuration, I found the safety trigger to be a non-issue.  I just didn't notice it.   

As Brice pointed out - YMMV.

Dan.

 

[mrwilby]

HI,

     No, and I know that in general they are not accurate enough. But my impression from posts here is that the  Kapex lasers are very accurate.  Did you get to try it out enough to confirm?

Seth

Seth, the lasers on the Kapex are supposed to be some of the best in the industry, they may well be. I think one would need to define their accuracy, for me, I want to split a very fine pencil line. A laser simply doesn't produce a sharp enough line to accomplish that. Nothing beats the sharp contrast the kerf shows when aligning be eye. This is my opinion, YMMV.

I suggest you wait and try the kapex laser. I'd be quite impressed if you can split the line it can "draw." Mine was accurate out of the box and I now rely on it because it is just as accurate than a pencil line...

 

[Brice Burrell]

I suggest you wait and try the kapex laser. I'd be quite impressed if you can split the line it can "draw." Mine was accurate out of the box and I now rely on it because it is just as accurate than a pencil line...

If you followed the thread you'd know I have used the Kapex briefly, so, I know what the lasers are like. I know some people who didn't like the idea that now sware by them. Maybe after spending time with using them I'll change my mind, I'll let you know.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I know what the lasers are like. I know some people who didn't like the idea that now sware by them.

This happens a lot. It really annoys me when people jump up and down and swear that this new fangled stuff is totally unnecessary and people are just getting fleeced who buy into it. Then they try it and jump up and down and swear that this new technology is the best thing since sliced bread and annoy me all over again. Maybe I just don't like people who jump up and down and swear.

Some other things once considered unnecessary,

on cars,

automatic transmissions
seat belts
fuel injection
anti-lock brakes
air bags

in cameras,

auto exposure
auto focus
digital cameras
live view
face detection (I don't get this one either but it's even making it's way into DSLRs  ???

 

[Forrest Anderson]

It really annoys me when people jump up and down and swear that this new fangled stuff is totally unnecessary and people are just getting fleeced who buy into it. Then they try it and jump up and down and swear that this new technology is the best thing since sliced bread and annoy me all over again. Maybe I just don't like people who jump up and down and swear.

I totally agree with you!

Forrest

 

[nickao]

I have to see the blade on the pencil line, it's just the way I work. I like lasers and they have their place and will love an accurate one. I will still line up the blade to my pencil line.

 

[Fred West]

Michael, I also agree with you except for that face detection thing as prior to it being around I never could find a face when I took a picture.  8) Fred

 

[Dan Clermont]

I recently got the Felder Hammer A3 31 J/P combo machine and am EXTREMELY pleased with it! It was allot of money but worth it in the end.

I considered buying the Jet and the Grizzly J/P combo machine but liked the quick blade change on the Hammer machine. The MiniMax version ihappened to be $2K more with the the Tersa head and I definitely could not justify the added cost.

The changeover from Jointer to Planer is very quick and I don't regret having a combo machine

Dan Clermont

 

[JayStPeter]

Dan,
I was on the verge of buying the Hammer when I got this great idea to race a car ... "Powered by Visa".  I did wind up getting a Veritas LA Jointer though.
It's kind of full circle.  My old race bike became my Unisaw and my leathers became my planer.  I missed the track, but was too old to slide down it at 100 MPH in a set of leathers again.  I guess it's not totally full circle since I didn't sell any shop stuff to buy the car, but I did sell my street bike.  My wife and parents were temporarily happy .. until the roll bars started going into the car.  Anyhow, probably no major shop equipment for a while, at least until the car gets all the race stuff in it and stops eating up the stock parts.

Jay (who just finished bench pressing a transmission out of his car ... 'hello Visa, can you raise my limit")