make a 5mm x 5mm dado for a box base

[ROb McGilp]

1. Set the height of cut to what you want. Here I've used 7mm
2. Set the cut width to mark 3.
3. For a 5mm deep dado, use a 23mm long "Rick's Ring" which will give 5mm depth. (see pic 3)
4. Cut the dado starting at one end, ensuring you have half the cutter clearing the end of the work piece.
5. Ensuring overlapping plunges, proceed along the piece and finish at the other end ensuring the cutter clears the edge of the work piece.

There's your dado.

Hopefully you can see from pic 2 that the back of the dado shows no wave type finish. It is dead flat.

If I'm teaching you to suck eggs, then I apologise.

Regards,

Rob

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

Rob,

Rather than multiple plunges have you ever tried just plunging and holding the plunge depth and sliding across the workpiece to cut the groove?  I would be a little concerned that it might stress the bit too much, especially if the depth of cut was too deep.  I could see the back edge of a Festool track being used as a straight guide to do this type of operation in an area where the fence of the Domino would not allow the depth to reach, as in the middle of a wide panel.

I have on several occasions used the Domino to cut a slot clear through a piece of 3/4" (20mm) stock by using multiple connected plunges.  This is often faster than getting out and setting up the router to do the job when building a jig that may need one or more adjustment slots where a bolt can pass through the pieces.

Best,
Todd

 

[score0matic]

Rob
I like sucking eggs  
Keep it up ;D

I have on several occasions used the Domino to cut a slot clear through a piece of 3/4" (20mm) stock by using multiple connected plunges.  This is often faster than getting out and setting up the router to do the job when building a jig that may need one or more adjustment slots where a bolt can pass through the pieces.

This is why these ideas are important.  there are times when the "best tool for a given task"  is not worth the effort to retrieve and set up.  this is more important to the pro where time is $$$ than the hobbyist .  but having a technique available at hand to finish a job is gold.
Craig

 

[ROb McGilp]

Hi Todd,

Yes I have tried using the Domino as a normal plunge router for the dados, registering from the top of the work piece rather than using a guide rail. Using a guide rail may help solve some of the issues I encountered. These are as follows,

1. Because the cutter is not just spinning round and round, but is also moving side to side, movement through the timber is jerky and can leave you with an uneven bottom to the rout.

2. Following on from that, control is difficult because of the way the Domino works.

3. You would be better, really, to do deep cuts in several passes and this, to me, removes the benefit of using the Domino, which is primarily to save set up time for a router. The benefit of not having to move the work piece to another device remains though.

4. The pressure needed to push the Domino through the wood is quite considerable and puts strain not only on the cutter, but also on the motor and drive.

5. It is possible to "ride up' with the Domi, but this can put strain on the cutter. I snapped a 5mm bit trying.

For these reasons, I prefer to use the overlapping plunge method. You may well find that using the guide rail alleviates some of these issues because you wouldn't be trying to keep the Domino level at the same time as moving it.

Regards,

Rob 

 

[greg mann]

The domino bits are designed to side cut with the first half millimeter or so as the tool oscillates back and forth. It is not a router bit in the normal sense. If you look closely you will see a small chamfer on the corners. This is the part of the bit that does most of the cutting. Stay with the plunge, shift and plunge again approach and you will keep from breaking bits.

 

[Jesus Aleman]

Rob, it can be done with the domino, but there are easier/more accurate methods (router or a saw) and you probably shouldn't be using the domino in this way.  I recall an older thread were it was discussed that the bits would shatter after little us if the bit wasn't under a constant 'stress'. The bit moves in three directions while mortising, but it is always hitting wood.  Thus, there is a consistent stress on the bit (from routing off the wood).    When this stress is not consistent on all three direction, say when you are making an existing mortise larger or daddoing, the bit will tend to shatter when it literally goes from routing air to wood.  Anyways, someone may be able to explain this better.  I'm not trying to discourage you of exploring new uses.

JGA.