Making longer tracks
- Thread starter BrianJA
- Start date
Holmz
Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2014
- Messages
- 4,001
Assuming you do not want to change saws to one that has a better track system, your best bet is probably a single length track. The 197" track part number 491500.
I do not believe welding is a good choice as it will cost some money (Mostly for prep), and any warping would not help you cause.
I do not believe welding is a good choice as it will cost some money (Mostly for prep), and any warping would not help you cause.
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2007
- Messages
- 10,361
BrianJA said:
Would the 3000 track (118") with a short extension (about 9" - 12") on each end work? That way nearly all of the cut would be one piece with the extensions giving you the last 2" plus space for the saw. The short extensions might be easier to keep aligned.
There is also the possibility of getting the 5000 track cutting it to length and having a spare shorter track.
Welding seems like it could have it's own set of problems.
Seth
I think that the loose fit of the short Festool connectors is the cause of most peoples problems.
I made two connectors 1 metre long and I find that when I connect the rails they are always perfectly aligned, they don't alter while I am using them.
I sandwiched two pieces of 3 mm stainless steel and had to grind them to fit the rails grooves as they are slightly different sizes.
Edit:- corrected length of connectors.
I made two connectors 1 metre long and I find that when I connect the rails they are always perfectly aligned, they don't alter while I am using them.
I sandwiched two pieces of 3 mm stainless steel and had to grind them to fit the rails grooves as they are slightly different sizes.
Edit:- corrected length of connectors.
Part of the problem is the way that the Festool connectors work. The set screws press directly into the aluminum rail.
You might want to try a pair of the Makita connectors
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-P-45777-Guide-Rail-Connector/dp/B004OJKZK8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442759526&sr=8-1&keywords=makita+rail+connector
they are a two piece unit and the set screws dig into the bottom connecter piece and expand the top and the bottom piece into the rail slot. Or as Bohdan said you can make your own similar set if you have the capability.
HEre's an old thread about making your own.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/homemade-guide-rail-connectors-(not-your-typical-ones)/
You might want to try a pair of the Makita connectors
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-P-45777-Guide-Rail-Connector/dp/B004OJKZK8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442759526&sr=8-1&keywords=makita+rail+connector
they are a two piece unit and the set screws dig into the bottom connecter piece and expand the top and the bottom piece into the rail slot. Or as Bohdan said you can make your own similar set if you have the capability.
HEre's an old thread about making your own.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/homemade-guide-rail-connectors-(not-your-typical-ones)/
waho6o9
Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2009
- Messages
- 1,872
Tyler Ernsberger
Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2014
- Messages
- 895
I would not weld them. The heat from the welder you would have to replace the splinter guards and the green saw supports. I feel like even with a good weld it will fail over time. By the time you grind the welds flat theres not a lot of material for the weld to hold.
It might work if you use the rail connectors and do a couple tacks to keep everything aligned. That way the rail connectors would add the stability/rigidity and the rail connectors would keep your alignment. You will still have problems with heat.
It might work if you use the rail connectors and do a couple tacks to keep everything aligned. That way the rail connectors would add the stability/rigidity and the rail connectors would keep your alignment. You will still have problems with heat.
Tayler_mann
Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 416
Welding will not work. As you add heat the metal will expand and contract and warp. Even if you weld it clamped to a welding table it will have some warpage. Welding is not a ad accurate of a process you would need. I have also heard of guys making their own track connectos and making them 48" long that way once you get it set it does not move.
- Joined
- May 24, 2014
- Messages
- 388
I say just connect two tracks together, I have the Betterley SLC23 StraightLine Connector, and have cut straight cuts with connected tracks and have cut pieces as long as 14ft for joining. I like the ideas of the 2 part connectors, I updated all the screws in my connectors with hex head metric set screws, I think the flat head set screws are terrible. Besides welding two tracks will probably distort them from the heat, keeping them in perfect alignment while welding would be difficult without movement from the heat that's generated.
Connecting the rails is not that hard to do accurately. I use Makita connectors and a 54" straight rail similar to Betterly's that I made from 8020 10 series material. I cut 10' plastics reasonably regularly. I did however just buy the 118" rail so I would no longer need to join rails for 8' material as I cut this lenght constantly.
The Festool guide rail connectors are rubbish. You can get straight cuts across multiple rails, but don't rely on the Festool connectors to do it. I've used 2000mm long home made connectors - just long aluminium flat section with grub screws through it. I also use long aluminium square section, place it at the back of the track across a connection and snug the track up against it. You could use pretty much anything that you know to be straight - such as a high quality spirit level. No need to screw anything down. I'm doing this to make long cuts on flooring, so the track is on the floor and just sits there and doesn't move about. I take care to line everything up, do a few dry runs of the saw across the joints, and in all cases it's given me perfect results. Connecting very long things using very short things - such as the Festool guide rail connectors - is just unreliable. You need to use looooooong connectors of some sort.
Michael1960
Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2012
- Messages
- 186
I have Festool tracks for my MFT and LR32. When it comes to breaking down sheet goods I join two Makita 1400 tracks. They are aligned perfectly when the two ends are joined with no gap. I am not sure if I was lucky to get two tracks where they are machined perfectly square and there is no need to 'muck around' with straight edges. Others experience may differ...
Tayler_mann
Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 416
Michael1960 said:
When my tracks (2 FS1400) they meet up perfectly square with about .5 mm space. I use my Mft and 4 bench dogs to align the tracks as well. It works fantastic. However, sometimes when moving the track joined around you can knock untrue prett easily. So once it is joined straight you must be very careful with it. In the long run I widh I bought the 3000 or whatever the larger track is. Regardless what brand it takes more time to join them than to grab it off the shelf or wall that is always true. If efficiency is the name of the game having a large track is the way to go.
Holmz
Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2014
- Messages
- 4,001
The Bosch track is pretty quick and it would be difficult to not have it perfectly.
In fact I do not know how to make it misaligned.
The 500-600 $ for the long FT rail is a of bit cash. My 2 1600-mm rails cover ~11' feet for a 3-m (10') cut works well. I think that the OP only has 3 options. The long rail is on of them.
In fact I do not know how to make it misaligned.
The 500-600 $ for the long FT rail is a of bit cash. My 2 1600-mm rails cover ~11' feet for a 3-m (10') cut works well. I think that the OP only has 3 options. The long rail is on of them.
waho6o9 said:Great call BrianJA, I love my 3000 rail it saves time and works well.
Don't forget to break out the black and white film, the vintage piano soundtrack and the custard pies. Long rail "turning" hilarity is always on the cards round my way.
Similar threads
