Making the TS-55 into a scoring saw

[dogutsukawu]

For getting clean cuts on chip-prone material such as melamine, it's generally recognized that making a shallow scoring cut followed by a full-depth cut is the best technique.  Any saw can be used as a scoring saw, but it's a nuisance to adjust the depth for every cut.  This post describes a "stop block" for the TS-55 that makes it convenient to use as a scoring saw.  The stop block is simply a stick that goes between the usual depth stop and the finger that hits the depth stop.  The photo below shows the stop block in action.

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The next photo shows the stop block off the saw.

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The headless screw at the bottom of the stop block fits into the existing hole on the depth stop that you can see in the photo below.

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You'll need a 1" screw with a 2.5 mm shank.  Placing the screw off-center helps to keep the stop block properly oriented when mounted on the saw.  I held the stop block in a wood screw clamp to drill the pilot hole for the screw on my drill press.

The next photo shows the stop block partially inserted into the hole.

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The notch on the stop block makes it easy to remove by grasping it with the nail on the index finger and the thumb as you can see in the next photo.

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The proof of the pudding is the cut.  The next photo shows the scoring cut on a melamine sheet made with the stop block in place and WITHOUT the splinter guard on the right side (outside) of the blade.

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A perfect cut with absolutely no chip out on BOTH sides of the cut.

A stop block has to be made for each different thickness of material so that when the stop block is mounted on the depth stop set for the full depth of cut, the depth of cut will be stopped at 6 mm.  This results in a scoring cut about .5 mm deep.  For 19 mm (3/4") thick material, the stop block is 38 mm long on the long edge, and 36 mm long on the short edge.  The bottom is cut square, but the top is tapered so that the "stop finger" rests on the entire top surface of the stop block.  Make sure you mark each stop block with the corresponding material thickness.

Maybe someone with machinist skill can make a flip version of the stop block to stop the depth of cut at 6 mm.  Such a flip stop would work for any material thickness.  How about it, Festool?  This enhancement will make the TS-55 a more valuable and useful tool.

So with a screw and scrap wood, you can convert the TS-55 into a scoring saw for getting chip-free cuts.

 

[PaulMarcel]

That's clever, thanks!

I'll have to try it manually next time I cut melamine.  The cold-press stuff I get at borg chips out when I pull out the saw, nevermind trying to cut it...  this could help.

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

True scoring saws on large panel saws generally operate rotating with the feed of the material rather than against it...a climb cut, which also reduces the chip or tear out a lot too.  The two cut approach should give better than average results using the TS55.

Best,
Todd

 

[dogutsukawu]

Someone said in another post that he makes the scoring cut by pulling the saw.  Since the scoring cut is so shallow (.5 mm), this should safe and result in a cleaner cut because it is a climb cut.