Makita 18vX2 Tracksaw Users Feedback?

Jmacpherson

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Jun 9, 2016
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Anyone out there who is currently running the Makita 18vX2 brushless tracksaw?

If you have used it on hardwood and thicker lumber as opposed to boards, how have you found it in terms of rip cuts and cross cuts?
Have you tried any of the new thin kerf blades Makita have made specifically for the saw?

Thinking of replacing my TS55/HKC55 with one hence the questions
 
I've only used my saw on ply and sheet goods and some dimensional lumber. It cuts smooth with the factory blade. 
 
X2 is excellent for power and run time. Scoring feature is great and it can use festool rails. I have only 2 negatives, the slop adjust for rails is not as good as festool and the stock blade which is good is not available on its own and Makita has not standardized the kerf thicknesses of the blades for this saw. Could someone do an actual head to head with the Makita x2 vs the tsc55. Note not the ts it’s a gutless saw.
 
glass1 said:
X2 is excellent for power and run time. Scoring feature is great and it can use festool rails. I have only 2 negatives, the slop adjust for rails is not as good as festool and the stock blade which is good is not available on its own and Makita has not standardized the kerf thicknesses of the blades for this saw. Could someone do an actual head to head with the Makita x2 vs the tsc55. Note not the ts it’s a gutless saw.

Thanks for the feedback [member=4687]glass1[/member]
When you say "note not the ts its a gutless saw" are referring to the x2 or ts55?
Confused because of the comment about its power  [embarassed]

I have a 240v TS55 which I'm considering replacing with the X2 because of convenience/cost of blades etc
Have demo with Makita rep where I'm going to cut ironwood wood with the X2, cross and rip.
If it handles that then I will have my answer
 
Absolutely buy it, you will not regret it.  It comes with an ultra thin kerf blade.  More run time, quieter, less material waste, less dust, incredibly clean cuts.  Makita just released a full line of blades for this saw, including the stock ultra thin kerf blade.  You can purchase it for $44.99.    Makita's tracks are cheap as well.  I purchased (3) 55" rails for $55 a piece during a promotion and plan on getting the 118" rail as well.  They've all been as straight as my Festool rails.  I used to have several Festool rails, including the 2700mm and sold them all, including my TS55, after I purchased the 18vx2.  I was cutting 1.5" countertop yesterday and the power difference between it and the TS55 is noticeably better.  Also, i love not being tethered to a cord.  If I don't want a mess in the garage I'll take the workpiece and the saw outside, make my cuts and bring them in.  No way would I have done that in the past if I had to deal with extension cords.

What isn't mentioned often is how much quieter and smoother than Makita is compared to the Festool.  The Festool has a 'groan' to it like a bearing is out but it's just the speed controller.  Makita has the same constant speed/increased torque feature but you can't hear it.  The electric brake is also incredible.

Watch this video to get an idea of the dust collection with a bag and the kind of cut it can take.

The only thing about this saw is that it excells with teh ultra thin kerf blade.  If you want to change blades you can but you'll comprise your splinterguard on your rail.  I gave this some thought and realized I could just shim the blade on the inboard side.  You can buy shims to accomplish this for cheap.  Just calculate how much offset you need based on the plate and kerf size. 

If you can't tell, I'm a total convert.  If you end up getting this saw take a look at the brushless router.  The dust collection with the fixed base is better than any Festool router on the market and its got plenty of power for a 1/4" collet sized machine.  I have the plunge and fixed base and ended up getting rid of my OF1010 after getting it. 
 
The brushless Makita router is awesome. But it’s not in the 1010’s class. The plunge base on the makita has way too much play. It’s not an either or it’s a get both.
 
I know not 240 volt. But at 120 volt the ts55 has small hero so. I have yet to try the tsc55 ie the battery festool saw.
 
I just measured the offset of the carbide teeth from the plate on my Makita blade and my Festool blades.  The difference here is .003", basically the thickness of a piece of paper. 

Regarding the Makita router, it does have a little slop in the plunge mechanism, which is in part why is plunges smoother than the Festool, but the play doesn't translate to the cut when I tested it.  I made a mortise with a 1/4" upcut bit and then ripped the board in half to check how square it was as I was curious if it mattered.  It was dead square against my Starrett machinist square.  If the OF1010 is your only router then I'd say the Makita isn't a replacement but then again I wouldn't suggest a OF1010 as the sole router for anyone anyway.  I have a OF1400 that I use for large mortises, dadoes, rabbets, etc.  The OF1010 never felt up to some of those applications compared to 1400.  I used the OF1010 for edge work, flush cutting and other light duty work.  The Makita 18v is even better suited for those lighter duty task is far cheaper, cordless, has a light, better dust collection and is quieter. 
 
Thanks to both of you for all the feedback, appreciate it.

Had my demo this morning using both the included 56t blade (slightly used) and a brand new 48t blade from the corded Makita model.
First tried it on 16mm board - was an absolute joke, like there was no board. Effortless cutting, the saw just glides through it.
Used the thicker 2.2mm blade and you can notice a slight difference but the machine didn't struggle at all.
Finally the real test, cutting +/- 20-25mm Ironwood, handled it like a champ and the edge was smooth like glass with the 48t
Swapped it out for the 56t and more of the same.

I'm convinced, I can happily replace two saws with this single tool.

Makita here is South Africa are still waiting for the Efficut blades to arrive and are not sure how much they are going to cost yet so they are not 100% sure how viable they will be since you cannot resharpen them apparently. Waiting to hear about that.

However as the video above shows you can rip with the stock blade in hardwood and I can use the corded models blades instead.
I also have option of using Bosch blades from their plunge saw which are available locally here at decent prices.

That is what I lack with Festool blades, decent alternatives. Their pricing in my country for accessories are getting out of hand.
As an example, the Kapex 260mm blade is another issue. I just imported a Tenryu 80t, 72t, betterley insert, some other bits and bobs, couriered here from Canada and paid customs for less than/same what the Festool 80t would cost me locally

I recently bought the 18v router which also got me thinking about the sustainability of Festool usage because it performs so well.
 
Well I often use the plunge mechanism with a guide bushing. Any play is not ideal. I do disagree with most of what you say but the 1010 is just one of those tools that feels good in hand.
 
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