Makita Power tools

jmbfestool said:
I wasnt on about hammer mode thats like saying use a circular saw to cut through bricks  my stile saw will cut through bricks all day. No drill is any good at hammer mode if you wanna drill holes in a wall use a hammer drill SDS  what the point paying more money for a drill making the drill larger and heavier just so you have a crappy hammer feature on it.  A drill is for screwing and drilling holes in wood and a SDS is for masonry thats final.

JMB
"That's final?"  What is this - a 12 year old argument? [laughing]
Being able to put tap con screws in without carrying a special-purpose drill is very handy too.
I will continue to use my Dewalt 18 volt and 36 volt drills for the things they are good at - lots of power, hammer drilling, and jobs where if they get damaged I will have a smaller heart attack. I will continue to use mt T15 for finer projects where the control and light weight are benefits.  And that's final.  [big grin]
 
TJ Cornish said:
jmbfestool said:
I wasnt on about hammer mode thats like saying use a circular saw to cut through bricks  my stile saw will cut through bricks all day. No drill is any good at hammer mode if you wanna drill holes in a wall use a hammer drill SDS  what the point paying more money for a drill making the drill larger and heavier just so you have a crappy hammer feature on it.  A drill is for screwing and drilling holes in wood and a SDS is for masonry thats final.

JMB
"That's final?"  What is this - a 12 year old argument? [laughing]
Being able to put tap con screws in without carrying a special-purpose drill is very handy too.
I will continue to use my Dewalt 18 volt and 36 volt drills for the things they are good at - lots of power, hammer drilling, and jobs where if they get damaged I will have a smaller heart attack. I will continue to use mt T15 for finer projects where the control and light weight are benefits.  And that's final.  [big grin]

Sorry! Just Dean Social isnt so social we always seem to have some sort of disagreement in every topic!
 
Welcome to my world , hehe. I have been trying to be good, but sometimes....

Disagreements are fine it is still a social interaction with value.
 
jmbfestool said:
TJ Cornish said:
jmbfestool said:
I wasnt on about hammer mode thats like saying use a circular saw to cut through bricks  my stile saw will cut through bricks all day. No drill is any good at hammer mode if you wanna drill holes in a wall use a hammer drill SDS  what the point paying more money for a drill making the drill larger and heavier just so you have a crappy hammer feature on it.  A drill is for screwing and drilling holes in wood and a SDS is for masonry thats final.

JMB
"That's final?"  What is this - a 12 year old argument? [laughing]
Being able to put tap con screws in without carrying a special-purpose drill is very handy too.
I will continue to use my Dewalt 18 volt and 36 volt drills for the things they are good at - lots of power, hammer drilling, and jobs where if they get damaged I will have a smaller heart attack. I will continue to use mt T15 for finer projects where the control and light weight are benefits.  And that's final.  [big grin]

Sorry! Just Dean Social isnt so social we always seem to have some sort of disagreement in every topic!

My problem is the amount of time you refer to joiners as rough because of their tool choice, it like saying someone is crap at driving because they drive a kia and someone good because they have a ferrari. Respect the choice that other people make and remeber the festool is not the be all and end all of tools. i had as many problems with festool as i have with any other make of tool yet they cost me twice as much.

As for the comment on the 36v dewalt, i was trying to make the point that they are different types of tools, sds are used for masonry predomently and large aurgers not screwing and smaller drilling tasks like the t15, hence the apples for apples comment.
 
Deansocial said:
jmbfestool said:
TJ Cornish said:
jmbfestool said:
I wasnt on about hammer mode thats like saying use a circular saw to cut through bricks  my stile saw will cut through bricks all day. No drill is any good at hammer mode if you wanna drill holes in a wall use a hammer drill SDS  what the point paying more money for a drill making the drill larger and heavier just so you have a crappy hammer feature on it.  A drill is for screwing and drilling holes in wood and a SDS is for masonry thats final.

JMB
"That's final?"  What is this - a 12 year old argument? [laughing]
Being able to put tap con screws in without carrying a special-purpose drill is very handy too.
I will continue to use my Dewalt 18 volt and 36 volt drills for the things they are good at - lots of power, hammer drilling, and jobs where if they get damaged I will have a smaller heart attack. I will continue to use mt T15 for finer projects where the control and light weight are benefits.  And that's final.  [big grin]

Sorry! Just Dean Social isnt so social we always seem to have some sort of disagreement in every topic!

My problem is the amount of time you refer to joiners as rough because of their tool choice, it like saying someone is crap at driving because they drive a kia and someone good because they have a ferrari. Respect the choice that other people make and remeber the festool is not the be all and end all of tools. i had as many problems with festool as i have with any other make of tool yet they cost me twice as much.

As for the comment on the 36v dewalt, i was trying to make the point that they are different types of tools, sds are used for masonry predomently and large aurgers not screwing and smaller drilling tasks like the t15, hence the apples for apples comment.

I agree curtain tools are for curtain jobs. I ment the T15 has alot of power for its size it will drill large holes in wood just like the dewalt would but the dewalt is twice the size so I would expect it to go for longer. Its like cars certain people buy certain cars some 1 with a sporty car has a certain personality and some one with a soft top and some one who just wants a car to get from A to B is different again and I find its similar with tools for example people who buy festool are normally people who want to make life easier but also knowing you can do things of a better standard with the tool and taking more pride in their work. I have demonstrated to some people to festool gear(TS55) and they say they cant understand why I paid so much. They say straight edge two clamps and a 190GBP circular does the job. Some came round few days later when watchin it in action more but when I first saw it I knew straight away how usefull the tool would be. The TS55 is what started me off with the Green stuff. 
I have had my T15 repaired and replaced 3 times so I dont think the festool is end all as I do own many other brands aswell.

JMB
 
jmbfestool said:
Deansocial said:
jmbfestool said:
TJ Cornish said:
jmbfestool said:
I wasnt on about hammer mode thats like saying use a circular saw to cut through bricks  my stile saw will cut through bricks all day. No drill is any good at hammer mode if you wanna drill holes in a wall use a hammer drill SDS  what the point paying more money for a drill making the drill larger and heavier just so you have a crappy hammer feature on it.  A drill is for screwing and drilling holes in wood and a SDS is for masonry thats final.

JMB
"That's final?"  What is this - a 12 year old argument? [laughing]
Being able to put tap con screws in without carrying a special-purpose drill is very handy too.
I will continue to use my Dewalt 18 volt and 36 volt drills for the things they are good at - lots of power, hammer drilling, and jobs where if they get damaged I will have a smaller heart attack. I will continue to use mt T15 for finer projects where the control and light weight are benefits.  And that's final.  [big grin]

Sorry! Just Dean Social isnt so social we always seem to have some sort of disagreement in every topic!

My problem is the amount of time you refer to joiners as rough because of their tool choice, it like saying someone is crap at driving because they drive a kia and someone good because they have a ferrari. Respect the choice that other people make and remeber the festool is not the be all and end all of tools. i had as many problems with festool as i have with any other make of tool yet they cost me twice as much.

As for the comment on the 36v dewalt, i was trying to make the point that they are different types of tools, sds are used for masonry predomently and large aurgers not screwing and smaller drilling tasks like the t15, hence the apples for apples comment.

I agree curtain tools are for curtain jobs. I ment the T15 has alot of power for its size it will drill large holes in wood just like the dewalt would but the dewalt is twice the size so I would expect it to go for longer. Its like cars certain people buy certain cars some 1 with a sporty car has a certain personality and some one with a soft top and some one who just wants a car to get from A to B is different again and I find its similar with tools for example people who buy festool are normally people who want to make life easier but also knowing you can do things of a better standard with the tool and taking more pride in their work. I have demonstrated to some people to festool gear(TS55) and they say they cant understand why I paid so much. They say straight edge two clamps and a 190GBP circular does the job. Some came round few days later when watchin it in action more but when I first saw it I knew straight away how usefull the tool would be. The TS55 is what started me off with the Green stuff. 
I have had my T15 repaired and replaced 3 times so I dont think the festool is end all as I do own many other brands aswell.

JMB

this is my whole point, using festool gear does not mean you do a better quality job or have more pride in your work, that is all to do with skill and your own pride n work.
 
That's right. I know a guy that could use a butter knife to make a museum piece.

It's not the tool, but the user.

For me the better tools allow me to get better results, simpler, faster and easier. I have some tools I am so used to that are considered inferior, but still would never give up because I know how to work them to get the results I want. Someone good can overcome  most tool design flaws and still make something fantastic. If you get a tool and it works great you really don't know what you are missing with a better tool unless you try it.

Festool gear can make some things simpler, but for me it is all about dust collection and if that was not great I would not spend the money on the Festools, there is just no point for me. There are quality tools for far less money, but they lack the dust collection.
 
Ken Nagrod said:
Hi JMB.

I have to agree with you about the fact that at some point you just have to say, "Do I really need a 6 gazillion volt battery powered tool?"  Even though I'm still interested in testing out the M28 line, from previous experiments holding their V28 drill, it's just too heavy for real jobsite or workshop use.  It was very powerful, but at the cost of lugging that around, I went with the 18 volt and I'm very happy.  Their other 28 volt tools like the circ saw and Sawzall would be useful when there's no power or you just don't feel like setting up a generator.  The 18 volt circ saw and Sawzall is good for quick stuff, but doesn't come close to equalling the output we'd need for tough jobsite use compared to corded versions.  In the end, my advice is try it and if it works for you, great!  If not, return it.

I'd love to hear your thoughts or anyone elses on the 36 volt DeWalt stuff.  Seriously, what's the point.  Eventually these companys will keep trying to one-up each other and we'll be plugging in car batteries to their tools.  I'm ok with that as long as mine's on wheels.

I leave my Milwaukees drills for the heavier duty abusive stuff and use my C12 mainly for my cabinetry and interior trim stuff, so that may be why I've never had a problem with my Festool drill.

I would properly go for the 36V Hilti maybe instead of the Dewalt. Im happy with my 18M Milwaukee powerfull enough but if I needed a 36V I think it would be the Hilti.  Does any one own one? or used one? is it any good?!?!?  Cus it has got a massive 3.9ahm battery bigger than any battery Iv seen! Also it has a deep cutting depth 70mm!

EDITED:  Oh and you can get a guide rail for it!

http://www.hilti.co.uk/holuk/page/module/product/prca_rangedetail.jsf?lang=en&nodeId=-100117

JMB
 
jmbfestool said:
Ken Nagrod said:
Hi JMB.

I have to agree with you about the fact that at some point you just have to say, "Do I really need a 6 gazillion volt battery powered tool?"  Even though I'm still interested in testing out the M28 line, from previous experiments holding their V28 drill, it's just too heavy for real jobsite or workshop use.  It was very powerful, but at the cost of lugging that around, I went with the 18 volt and I'm very happy.  Their other 28 volt tools like the circ saw and Sawzall would be useful when there's no power or you just don't feel like setting up a generator.  The 18 volt circ saw and Sawzall is good for quick stuff, but doesn't come close to equalling the output we'd need for tough jobsite use compared to corded versions.  In the end, my advice is try it and if it works for you, great!  If not, return it.

I'd love to hear your thoughts or anyone elses on the 36 volt DeWalt stuff.  Seriously, what's the point.  Eventually these companys will keep trying to one-up each other and we'll be plugging in car batteries to their tools.  I'm ok with that as long as mine's on wheels.

I leave my Milwaukees drills for the heavier duty abusive stuff and use my C12 mainly for my cabinetry and interior trim stuff, so that may be why I've never had a problem with my Festool drill.

I would properly go for the 36V Hilti maybe instead of the Dewalt. Im happy with my 18M Milwaukee powerfull enough but if I needed a 36V I think it would be the Hilti.  Does any one own one? or used one? is it any good?!?!?  Cus it has got a massive 3.9ahm battery bigger than any battery Iv seen! Also it has a deep cutting depth 70mm!

http://www.hilti.co.uk/holuk/page/module/product/prca_rangedetail.jsf?lang=en&nodeId=-100117

JMB

no but i have been using the hilti 24v circ for 3yr odd now and think it is ace and it fits the festool rail(till you drop it and bend it) Works well for cutting rafter ends off etc. The hilti 36 is pricey at gbp650
 
I just bought the Milwaukee PH30X SDS  for 209GBP

http://www.rexcrystal.co.uk/item.php?itemsID=1666

because my Metabo is playing up sending it of to be fixed though good SDS drill really!

Any way I would like a cordless SDS some time in the future the Hilti looks good but im not sure but looking at the pictures the Hilti 36V SDS hammer drills have a different battery than the 36V circular saws  seems stupid to me.

JMB
 
jmbfestool said:
I just bought the Milwaukee PH30X SDS  for 209GBP

http://www.rexcrystal.co.uk/item.php?itemsID=1666

because my Metabo is playing up sending it of to be fixed though good SDS drill really!

Any way I would like a cordless SDS some time in the future the Hilti looks good but im not sure but looking at the pictures the Hilti 36V SDS hammer drills have a different battery than the 36V circular saws  seems stupid to me.

JMB

site say b36v batterys for both, i think you looked at the wrong drill
 
When you say fits does the blade cut the splinter guard?!  or is it offset  I would rather that its offset so it doesnt affect the splinter guard as I would only just it for quick sheet cutting like shutter ply.

JMB
 
Deansocial said:
jmbfestool said:
I just bought the Milwaukee PH30X SDS  for 209GBP

http://www.rexcrystal.co.uk/item.php?itemsID=1666

because my Metabo is playing up sending it of to be fixed though good SDS drill really!

Any way I would like a cordless SDS some time in the future the Hilti looks good but im not sure but looking at the pictures the Hilti 36V SDS hammer drills have a different battery than the 36V circular saws  seems stupid to me.

JMB

site say b36v batterys for both, i think you looked at the wrong drill

I looked at all SDS hammer drills  you say B36  but they are all different I dont thing B36 means somethin els. If you look at the pictures the batteries are very different even though it says B36 but also  one says B36 but it a Nihm batterie not lithium  and the other is 2.9ah another says 3.3ah  but the circular saw batteries are 3.9ah  so I dont know?!?!?
 
jmbfestool said:
Deansocial said:
jmbfestool said:
I just bought the Milwaukee PH30X SDS  for 209GBP

http://www.rexcrystal.co.uk/item.php?itemsID=1666

because my Metabo is playing up sending it of to be fixed though good SDS drill really!

Any way I would like a cordless SDS some time in the future the Hilti looks good but im not sure but looking at the pictures the Hilti 36V SDS hammer drills have a different battery than the 36V circular saws  seems stupid to me.

JMB

site say b36v batterys for both, i think you looked at the wrong drill

I looked at all SDS hammer drills  you say B36  but they are all different I dont thing B36 means somethin els. If you look at the pictures the batteries are very different even though it says B36 but also  one says B36 but it a Nihm batterie not lithium  and the other is 2.9ah another says 3.3ah  but the circular saw batteries are 3.9ah  so I dont know?!?!?

try this 1 https://www.hilti.co.uk/holuk/page/module/product/prca_rangedetail.jsf?lang=en&nodeId=-98109

yeah it cuts the splinter guard as the hilti rail is the same as festool, in fact some of their saws are made by maffell
 
Yeah I looked at that SDS  and you read below like I said it says

1x TE 7-A Rotary Hammer Drill, 2x B363 (3.3Ah) Li-ion Batteries, 1x C4/36 ACS Charger, 1x DRS Dust Removal Module, 1x Impact Resistant Tool Case

but the Circular saw says (3.9Ah)  its either a miss type or different batterie?!?!?!

JMB
 
jmbfestool said:
Yeah I looked at that SDS  and you read below like I said it says

1x TE 7-A Rotary Hammer Drill, 2x B363 (3.3Ah) Li-ion Batteries, 1x C4/36 ACS Charger, 1x DRS Dust Removal Module, 1x Impact Resistant Tool Case

but the Circular saw says 3.9AH   its either a miss type or different batterie?!?!?!

JMB

yeah seen that now but i have about 4 different ah dewalt batteries that fit same tool so i assume the same applies. I will ask the question next time i go in
 
Well I have never seen a 3.9ah  so im assuming its a miss type as on one of the titles is says 3.3ah but then 3.9ah underneath.  3.9ah is pretty good battery would last ages defiantly temps me to buy one!

JMB
 
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