Makita SP6000

Brent Taylor

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Joined
Aug 5, 2014
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471
I was wonder how many of you are using this saw? I have had one for quite a while, I got it to replace my ATF, that grew feet. I had got the Makita before the new 55 came out, mainly because of the features that it had and I needed in the type of work I do, Mainly remodel and Arts and Craft style work, but I also do casework and furniture. The Makita at the time was the only saw in NA that had -1 to 48 dia. bevel, an anti-tip for the bevel cut, scoring setting and was make in the UK (not China). The DC is better than the ATF, but that could be the vac. I'm able to use all of my different clamps and guide, yes some have to be modified, but that only takes a few seconds and they still work on the Festool tracks. I have three Makita tracks; 2 1500 mm for site work. A 3 M in the shop and a FS 1400/2-LR32, also in the shop. The tracks all interchange with each other as do most of the guides I have currently, I did have to rework the Carvex guide and now it has a Festool side and a Makita side. I also know the Makita does not have a riving knife, but I have only had two saws withe one on them and in over 40 years of using saws day in and day out, I have learned to wedge work pieces when needed. the one on my SS is nice, but if it was not there I would still be able to work comfortable and safely. I have found this to be good saw and hope it will last as long as my other Makita tool, most are over 30 years old now. I often wonder if the Festools that I've bought will last as long, maybe my kid will tell tell me on the otherside. Brent
 
I also have one.  I bought it from Amazon warehouse to see what the track saw fuss was all about.  However, I did buy Festool tracks.  I also, as you were, very happy with the results and utility of the system.  I eventually bought a TS75, not because the Makita did not work well, but because it was a little under powered for the plastics i was cutting.
 
I have a SP6000J that I use with a Festool LR32 rail.  Works fine, but it doesn't have the anti-tip lip when you're doing bevel cuts.  I've only cut plywood on it and it's been great so far.  Dust collection is good (though I have nothing to compare it to).  It was cheaper, cuts deeper, and blades are 50% cheaper than the Festool TS55 REQ. 

As of now, I'm happy with mine and felt that it was a good purchase.  I've cut 2 sheets of 3/4" ply in one go and it's no problem. 
 
I bought an original Festool Track Saw 20+ years ago. When it disappeared, I bought the Makita. When Festool had their 10% off sale on tracksaws a few years ago, I bought the TS55 and the Makita went to the shop over a dedicated breakdown table where the stupidly short power cable and lack of riving knife was not an issue. I recently bought another SP6000 when there was a deep discount offered. I intend to use both.
 
I just finished a video review of my Makita SP6000 that I've been using for the past few years.  I had some issues with the guide rails being straight enough as I describe in the video. I've been tempted to try the Festool rails since the saw is compatible.  Has anyone had any similar issues with the Festool rails or are they better made?
 
Your tools always seem to be in showroom condition. Where's all the caked on dust/overspray?  [big grin]
 
rst said:
I also have one.  I bought it from Amazon warehouse to see what the track saw fuss was all about.  However, I did buy Festool tracks.  I also, as you were, very happy with the results and utility of the system.  I eventually bought a TS75, not because the Makita did not work well, but because it was a little under powered for the plastics i was cutting.

Hey Rst i am in the opposite situation that you where in. I have the ts75 and want the makita . i was wondering how they both work on the same rail. Is there adjustment on makita to line both saws to the same splinterguard? Thanks

Mike
 
I am completely familiar with both Saws. I own the festool and the workshop I manage has the makita.

While the makita is very similar to the festool in all ways, the makita is the poorer tool. It's just not as refined.

- It's louder,
- the blade stops slower, 
- the track adjustment guides in the saws base constantly wiggle loose causing the saw to eat more of the splinter guard than it should when set correctly.
- the tracks aren't, or don't keep as straight, in both planes
- the glide strips on the track are too hard and slowly wear groves into the saw base of either saw
- The depth setting isn't quite as quick/easy to change
- the systainer is the old style
- The blade that comes with it is not as nice as the festool fine blade
- the spring/plunge action is not as dampened and smooth. it's lighter with more 'spring'
- the saw is not flush on the blade side so you can't run it up against surfaces

The makita is a fine saw, and can do all you need it to. But here in the UK, I feel the price difference I've seen is not really enough savings over the superior festool saw.  Obviously each to their own reasoning on that one. .

 
I've hated every time I've had to use the makita. I suppose it does the job if you're on a budget. just my opinion, to each their own
 
Mikey, I do not use my Makita on the same rails as my Festool 55 and 75.  I use Festool rails with the Makita but only use it for rough carpentry now...at least until the HK & HKC and FSK Guide Rails  are available.  At that point it is off to EBay with the Makita.
 
the makita is the better tool :
1 more power
2 more capacity
3 anti tip
4 scoring feature
5 less expensive
6 in my experience it cuts just as good if not better than the festool
7 better sacrificial guide strips
8 better rail connectors
9 cheaper rails

 
I don't use festool saws but I hate the way the cord comes out of the makita, 90°to the left. I hate the screw depth stop, and I found the saw under powered personally.
 
MGB said:
Your tools always seem to be in showroom condition. Where's all the caked on dust/overspray?  [big grin]

lol I guess I just take care of my tools :) I've never liked having dirty tools so I think I keep them cleaner than most.
 
GhostFist said:
I don't use festool saws but I hate the way the cord comes out of the makita, 90°to the left. I hate the screw depth stop, and I found the saw under powered personally.

I agree that the way the power cord comes out of the Makita is a bit of a pain.  I find especially when using Parf dogs since the cord tends to catch on them. Forgot to mention that in my review.
 
See this scoring feature?

Isn't that a bit like just setting the saw to do a 2mm cut then?

Is that normally difficult to do?
 
demographic said:
See this scoring feature?

Isn't that a bit like just setting the saw to do a 2mm cut then?

Is that normally difficult to do?

If you are cutting melamine etc. all day long scoring feature is handy.
It's just like Centrotec holder. Is it difficult to chuck a bit traditional way? No. Yet people are paying extra to save 1 second on a bit change.
 
I had a Makita SP6000 for close to a year and a half and finally got around to replacing it with the TS55.  The reason wasn't so much performance based but rather practicality (I'm beginning to really integrate Festool into my shop and found streamlining to be a big priority for me)

At this point I won't say I prefer one to the other as I've only had the TS55 for literally a week and can't give an accurate review but I do / did despise the cord for the Makita and after a while the thumb button to unlock the plunge feature got very hard to operate (that could be isolated to me and something I was doing though).  It integrated well enough with the MFT though I too had issues with the 55" rails being straight and true.    I was also getting a fair amount of chip-out when cutting sheet goods and despite cleaning the blade (Freud) it didn't seem to make much of a difference.  This could be though largely due to the subpar guides since when I'd cut on an MFT I'd rarely get any sort of chipout. 

 
In my experience the scoring feature is really terrible. The little pin that sets the 2mm depth of cut is held back out of the way by a flimsy rubber button. At some point in time mine decided it wanted to part company with the saw meaning that it would randomly move into the engaged position.
With the Festool saw and a fresh green splinter guard the scribe cut is completely unecessary
Also having to remember to add 5mm to the makitas depth scale to allow for the rail thickness also makes the occasional swear word slip out, especial when u have already lifted the rail from the work piece before noticing that there is still a single piece of timber on the bench instead of two! i know adding 5 isn't the hardest math in world but having had both saws, the dual scale on the Festool is something I would never give up
 
Jak147 said:
Also having to remember to add 5mm to the makitas depth scale to allow for the rail thickness also makes the occasional swear word slip out, especial when u have already lifted the rail from the work piece before noticing that there is still a single piece of timber on the bench instead of two! i know adding 5 isn't the hardest math in world but having had both saws, the dual scale on the Festool is something I would never give up

Hah!  That is an annoyance isn't it?  I don't know how many times I've added to account for the rail and still there is a paper-thin piece of material that I have to recut for fear of tearing out the veneer. 
 
the makita has more power period its a fact. It has more capacity its a fact. The scoring function and the anti tip are a convenience its a fact. The saw is hundreds of dollars less its a fact. The cord is too short its a fact. Whatever you guys are smoking you need to share !
 
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