Makita Tracksaw Q's

[VHF]

Hi Folks - Finally got a makita SP6000 track saw kit. Cuts are as great as expected - very pleased. Two things (so far) that have been puzzling to me though:

1) Cut depth setting. Spent the day cutting 18mm ply. Started out setting the depth to 18. No where near cutting through. Progressed through 20 up to 22 before the 18mm ply was cut through. Obvs I can (and do) check visually, but feel like I must be missing something. Wouldn't (shouldn't) the numbers relate to the depth of cut?

2) Accommodating  for kerf. Again, maybe something obvious I'm missing, but is there a better way to set the track to my marks? I'm currently doing it by edging the track closer and closer to the marks then aligning the proper side of the tooth to the proper side of the mark. Seems awkward and inaccurate for such a well designed rig. (I know there are brilliant parallel cutting guides by Woodpecker and Seneca and Festool for repeat cut but Christmas is far away, so need to use what I have, presently.)

And a silly one this, but I've read that folks often cut on a sheet of pink or blue rigid foam insulation. Is this just to save the blade, or is there another reason?

Cheers for any words on the above, and any other rookie tips. 

 

[copcarcollector]

Not a saw I have, but ref depth of cut, does the depth indicator take into account the height of the rail? I know on my FT saw there are two measurements, on and off the rail...

 

[Kab]

The track is 4mm thick, so the depth needs to be set 4 mm deeper than the thickness of the material. The measurements relate to the depth of cut from the base of the saw not the underside of the track.

The good side of the cut piece is intended to be under the track. Sounds like you have the waste piece under the track, which is why the issue you have with the saw blade curf.

 

[nclemmons]

And to your third question - yes, the foam insulation is just a spoil board under what you are cutting.  Let's you cut through without damaging the table or floor that might be under the piece you want to cut.

I have a 4x8 piece cut into four 2x4 panels so I can grab one or more depending on what I am cutting and where.

 

[RKA]

The first question was answered.  To ellaborate on the second, there are methods you can use to set the track precisely and repeatably.  A combination square is usually the best if you want to shorten a piece of stock (like a door) by a fixed amount...say 1/4".  You put the combination square on the edge of the door and butt the zero clearance strip against the ruler on the square.  Do both this on both ends of the cut and you're all set. 

If you want to cut a panel to a set width, as mentioned, put the keeper side under the track put a razor blade on your mark at both ends of the material.  Slide the track to the right until it butts up against the razor blades.  Remove the blades and make your cut.  You'll find this will be very precise if you're able to mark your cuts with the razors consistently. 

When the width of the piece is narrower than the track, you'll need a filler piece of the same thickness of the stock you're cutting.  Mark you piece as indicated above, but lay the filler under the track for support and make the cut.  Here it would be wise to place a stop block of some sort at the far end of the piece being cut to keep it from moving forward as you finish your cut. 

Finally, that foam also keeps the blade fully encapsulated which aids in dust collection. 

 

[mrboult]

Hi Folks - Finally got a makita SP6000 track saw kit. Cuts are as great as expected - very pleased. Two things (so far) that have been puzzling to me though:

1) Cut depth setting. Spent the day cutting 18mm ply. Started out setting the depth to 18. No where near cutting through. Progressed through 20 up to 22 before the 18mm ply was cut through. Obvs I can (and do) check visually, but feel like I must be missing something. Wouldn't (shouldn't) the numbers relate to the depth of cut?

2) Accommodating  for kerf. Again, maybe something obvious I'm missing, but is there a better way to set the track to my marks? I'm currently doing it by edging the track closer and closer to the marks then aligning the proper side of the tooth to the proper side of the mark. Seems awkward and inaccurate for such a well designed rig. (I know there are brilliant parallel cutting guides by Woodpecker and Seneca and Festool for repeat cut but Christmas is far away, so need to use what I have, presently.)

And a silly one this, but I've read that folks often cut on a sheet of pink or blue rigid foam insulation. Is this just to save the blade, or is there another reason?

Cheers for any words on the above, and any other rookie tips.

1) As mentioned above, the rail is 6mm (I thought it was 6mm) and the Makita saw does not have a dual scale like the festool. So you just have to add the track depth to your material depth each time you use the saw on the track. (Be careful using a plunge saw free hand. they get a little wild)

2) As part mentioned above, you are currently putting your track on the waste side of the line and so having to take into account the kerf of the blade. Move your track onto the keeper side of the line.
Now you can now just move the edge of the track's rubber splinter guard right up to the line as that is where your cut will be, every thing past the line where the kerf will cut is waste material. . .

FYI - Keep a daily eye on your "rail adjustment knobs" on the base of your saw. A fault of the Makitas is that they wiggle loose almost every day and this allows a little play on the rail, causing the cut line to waver slightly and your zero clearance splinter guard become a little damaged and inaccurate . . .

 

[VHF]

Right. All makes sense when I read it. Especially like that razor blade tip. And yes, the rail adj knobs loosened even during work yesterday. Did a good job on them already. Thanks all.

 

[rst]

Unlike most users, I do not rely on the anti splinter strip to locate my cuts.  I often cut abrasive materials and even wood will gradually degrade how close to the mark the splinter guard lies.  My rails all cut 3mm from the edge of the aluminum rail extrusion.  I keep a Paolini rule nearby set to 3mm and place my rails with that.  My first track saw was a Makita that I purchased from Amazon Warehouse Deals.  I used that how a few years until I decided I needed a more powerful saw.  Second saw was a TS 75 that I bought off Ebay.  I now have a 55 that stays with my MFT, an HKC, and a TSC.  EAch saw has a niche use.